Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey all,
am looking at upgrading from the runner into a 100 series cruiser.
Am 100% keen on a cruiser, as Ive always liked the shape and my old man used to have one.
SAF is a must.
Was wondering what the fuel economy would be like in the 4.5 manual 100 series?
Was going to part-time kit it, but also lift it 5inches in the springs, 2inch body, 35/37s on road.
My old mans 4.5 auto 100 series was getting around 16L/100km as stock form.
Was thinking diesel, but have been told about the weak gearboxes and is quite pricey for an intercooled turbo system and exhaust for the 1HZ.
My old 2.0L petty motor in my runner used to get 18L/100km highway, and it will mostly only get driven like an easy hours drive to and from the train station from week to week, so not many kms.
Cheers
Dan

Hi,
They do love a drink!
I have a 4.5lt auto rolling 35's. I havn't been able to check it properly due to towing a trailer and goin bush etc. But I get about 25lts per 100k's and worse when towing. But its still very powerful with 35's.

HI
I got a petrol auto and would say somewhere around 18l/100 around town. Just put 35"s on so cant say how this has changed things yet. (did have 33"s on before and even found a distinct difference between 285/75 and 305/70) Put a part time kit in and didn't really notice much difference in economy but now goes a hell of a lot harder and can now leave trafic lights sideways in the wet without too much trouble (even with the 35"s) which does scare some people and the missus! Part time kit is worth it for the better performance and less wear on front end for sure.

Shit. 18L/100 around town is great. I get around 22L/100 petrol on the highway, 26L/100 on LPG. Mine is a Manual.

Im trying to weigh up the pro's and cons of petrol and diesel.
The petrol 100s are cheaper and the turbo diesel 100s are IFS, And the 1HZ is a bit of a dinosaur of a motor these days.
Driving my 2L runner with 35s on it everywhere for a couple of years has gotten me more power hungry, so thats why I'm leaning towards the petty and dealing with the fuel costs.

I love the power of the 1FZ and wouldn't go back to a diesel.

My ute has the 4.5L petty and gas - 16L/100 on petty, 26L100 on gas, and that's spring over, 35's, 4.56 diffs, extended wheelbase. Works out roughly as long as gas is under 60% of the cost of fuel (if fuel is $1, gas needs to be less than 60c) gas is cheaper.
Our old 80 was 4.5 dual fuel, and our 105 is 4.5 dual duel. Great motors. Watch the plastic radiator, if the tanks start crazing replace asap.

Either way if you go petrol or diesel it should be a good thing. I havn't fitted a part time kit yet but will be soon so it may improve it a bit. If the fuel started costing you to much you could put it on LPG, but if you were to it is better to put them on a injected LPG system.
If your planing on going as big as 37's than you probably won't need a body lift, a 5'" lift should be plenty. I have a 4" lift with 35's and it makes the 35's look small.

how do you go with the abs and the part time kit

regarding the diesel petrol debate
if you want the ultimate ( money permitting)
buy a live axle na diesel or a petrol then drop in the 100series 4.2 factory TD if you have driven one of those any distance you would never drive a petrol again
i would probably buy the petrol because it has the good gearbox then all u need is a 80 series 1hz bellhousing and the diesel will bolt in
you will end up with a live axle truck that goes hard tows well and uses stuff all fuel

302 cruiser wrote:how do you go with the abs and the part time kit

I'm about to install a marks part time kit into the the other halfs 100 series and from what I've been told the ABS light in the dash stays on all the time and the ABS doesn't work....... I could be wrong though.

yeah that is what happens. The abs only works when it is in 4WD. If the light being on annoys you just take the globe out!

Hi

When I first put the part time kit in I didn't install the free wheeling hubs. This retains the ABS.
I eventually put the hubs on though. I never have had the ABS light come on (other than at start up when it does self diagnosis) but with the hubs locked (i.e. 4x4) the ABS does work. It's only when you unlock the hubs (i.e. 4x2) that the ABS doesn't work as the ABS sensors are on the CV's. With the hubs locked in though you don't get the full benefit of the part time kit because the front end is still being turned and this can be felt in the performance.
Depending on weather/road conditions I either have the hubs locked in or out.
I've found the kit to be excellant value for money in terms of better performance and less wear and tear on the front end and highly recommend it. I did notice increased understeer but this was rectified with castor correction bushes and now feels sharper than before.

Good luck.
Tony.

As I'm going to have this car for a while and will be doing some long distance touring in the future, I'm gonna go with the 1HZ diesel. With some extras:
- Garrett ball bearing turbo
- Top mount intercooler
- Boost compensator
- 3inch exhaust with high flow muffler
- Part time kit
Has anyone got 200kw out of a 1HZ motor?
I hear nissan guys getting 200kw from their TD42 motors.
Cheers
Dan

what benifit do you get out of a boost compensator? my understanding of them is that they limit full fuel delivery untill you get boost pressure. so they are just a pollution device

My 4runner doesnt have a boost compensator and when im in lowish revs such as initial take off I get a small puff of blue/white smoke out the exhaust which then turns into black as I bury my foot into the floor.
with a boost compensator it will allow me to run the right fuel mixture, therefore better fuel economoy and better performance?

dans-paj92 wrote:As I'm going to have this car for a while and will be doing some long distance touring in the future, I'm gonna go with the 1HZ diesel. With some extras:
- Garrett ball bearing turbo
- Top mount intercooler
- Boost compensator
- 3inch exhaust with high flow muffler
- Part time kit
Has anyone got 200kw out of a 1HZ motor?
I hear nissan guys getting 200kw from their TD42 motors.
Cheers
Dan

if you add it up its not worth it
you will not get 200 kw out of a 1hz for reliable touring for many years
ITS not a nissan its a 1hz it has a weak head that will crack out from the precom chambers
you are far better off adding that 5000 bucks u r going to spend on it to the 2000 bucks that you could get for a perfect 1hz =$7000
and go buy a good factory diesel engine with direct injection unless you r happy running around with a cheap grenade under the bonnet that drinks like a sailor
go buy a 1HDT or 1HDFT or even better 1HDFTE
each one gets more fuel efficient and makes more power the further to the right you go
you could get 200k reliable from the FTE and still get 10 ltrs per hunderd if you could get a 1hz to do that for more than 6 months you would be looking at 18ltrs per 100

I just bought a 2005 HDJ100 GXL... Cost me big bucks, but ive driven it back to back with the 4.5L V8 diesel utes, and that six motor is on par, if not better.

If your looking at 1HZ's, DO NOT DRIVE A 1HD-FTE!

im am very serious about this- You'll never be happy with the 1HZ after a drive in the 1HD-FTE, and that leaves you from looking at 105 series trucks for $30K to 100 series trucks at $50K, or a 105 petrol for $25K, and then another 10-15K for the 1HD-FTE swap!