Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys.
the slip spline on my front driveshaft is flogged out an looks to break soon. ive rang around and have gotten quotes from several places and are all around $200 just to weld in a new slip spline and re balance the shaft.
my question is what are my other options? as i dont have a spare $200 lying around at the moment.
cheers sam

Make a rhs/box tube shaft. Thats gives you as much slip as possible.

You wont need it balanced unless you use 4wd high.

look around for a 2nd hand shaft on here or ebay, if you keep an eye out you may pich one up for $100-150, just check it is not flogged out.

being that it is in the front if you dont need 4wd then its fine to leave till you can save the money.

To me $200 for what you have said is cheap, as these places usually charge heaps to change the slip joing and a rebalance.

Brad

as said above make an rhs shaft i did it to mind and with steel,2x grease nipples,paint and grease cost me $20 and is strong as and works great

cheers for the info guys.
i was thinking about the rhs but i couldnt find any threads of how people went about building them, i found a few pics but no real info on building it. how would it go being balanced as i do use high range occasionaly when i go out the beach??
would be a great help if someone had a link to a thread or some details of how to build one properly. no problems with the welding side as my housemate is a boily.
cheers sam

Not much too it, cut the shaft at either end at the flanges, weld new steel onto it.

Lower section is 40x40x5 and top section is 50x50x4. Just measure what lengths you need at either end.

Put in a grease nipple in and fill her up with grease.

Just make sure you put the uni's in phase at either end. And you should be able to mark on each flange the center so its roughly balanced.

Square Tail shaft tech......

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=90517" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

General rule of thumb from what i read when looking into this was that the rhs option is good until about 60km/h unbalanced.

The best part is it saves future damage to splines from the lack of travel in the std shaft.

If getting new splines fitted, I would be looking to increase the length of travel to a longer max length of at least 3 inches more, so RUF or shifting the front diff is not an issue.

soo ive rang around trying to get rhs recommended above. but all i can get is that is close to it is 40x40x4 and 50x50x5 or 4.
what size woukld be best or what size have you guys used??

i used 40x40 solid (drilled to remove weight)and 50x50x5 rhs

howd that go with balance having holes randomly drilled throughout and is it fairly expensive??
what size has everyone else used in rhs??
cheers

you dont balance rhs shafts.
they are square.mines not balanced and it doesnt vibrate

The holes are equally spaced and on centre so it's not an issue. Drive fine even at 100ks

barnsy wrote:soo ive rang around trying to get rhs recommended above. but all i can get is that is close to it is 40x40x4 and 50x50x5 or 4.
what size woukld be best or what size have you guys used??

Use the above size's but weld bead's on the outside of the 40x40, making it 43-44x43-44, cover in grease. Done. Cheap and easy!

barnsy wrote:soo ive rang around trying to get rhs recommended above. but all i can get is that is close to it is 40x40x4 and 50x50x5 or 4.
what size woukld be best or what size have you guys used??

This chart may help. Remember to give some clearance for the weld seam inside the outer RHS
http://www.seniorsteel.com.au/files/Tel ... 0Chart.PDF

WICKED wrote: Use the above size's but weld bead's on the outside of the 40x40, making it 43-44x43-44, cover in grease. Done. Cheap and easy!

WTF are you on about Bongo Benny?

sloshy wrote:

WICKED wrote: Use the above size's but weld bead's on the outside of the 40x40, making it 43-44x43-44, cover in grease. Done. Cheap and easy!

WTF are you on about Bongo Benny?

Another classic Benny reply !!!! Obviously not good at maths & he is an apprentice sparky .................. fark me scary huh !!!!




brooksy

brooksy wrote:

sloshy wrote:

WICKED wrote: Use the above size's but weld bead's on the outside of the 40x40, making it 43-44x43-44, cover in grease. Done. Cheap and easy!

WTF are you on about Bongo Benny?

Another classic Benny reply !!!! Obviously not good at maths & he is an apprentice sparky .................. fark me scary huh !!!!




brooksy

How so?
Welding pads on the outside of the 40 too around 43-44mm and slipping inside a 45mm (50mm - 5mm Wall thickness) 1-2mm of clearance.

WICKED wrote:

brooksy wrote:

sloshy wrote:

WICKED wrote: Use the above size's but weld bead's on the outside of the 40x40, making it 43-44x43-44, cover in grease. Done. Cheap and easy!

WTF are you on about Bongo Benny?

Another classic Benny reply !!!! Obviously not good at maths & he is an apprentice sparky .................. fark me scary huh !!!!




brooksy

How so?
Welding pads on the outside of the 40 too around 43-44mm and slipping inside a 45mm (50mm - 5mm Wall thickness) 1-2mm of clearance.

OMG !!!!





brooksy

WICKED wrote:How so?
Welding pads on the outside of the 40 too around 43-44mm and slipping inside a 45mm (50mm - 5mm Wall thickness) 1-2mm of clearance.

You really do struggle with the simple things hey Benny

WICKED wrote: How so?
Welding pads on the outside of the 40 too around 43-44mm and slipping inside a 45mm (50mm - 5mm Wall thickness) 1-2mm of clearance.

Have a think about it.

sloshy wrote:

WICKED wrote: How so?
Welding pads on the outside of the 40 too around 43-44mm and slipping inside a 45mm (50mm - 5mm Wall thickness) 1-2mm of clearance.

Have a think about it.

Dont make him do that. He needs all his thinking power to work out what comes after breathing out.

Try getting yourself some pto tube from a tractor shop. Its designed to slip and is also a drive tube. Odd shapes but works. Appox 3.2 wall thickness.