Outer Limits 4x4 Board

thought this might make a good interesting thread,

What is everyones servincing habbits with diesel engines ???

ie oil changes, engine cleaning, filters etc,

also have a few questions,
after an oil change what is a reasonable time period before the oil turns black, and if it is turning black what is a good way to clean the engine ?? ie fill it with diesel and run it for a few min on idle ?

do u change oil filters ever oil change ??? what about air filters ??

have u altered the fuel pumps to add more kick ???thus blowing more smoke ???

oil every 5000 kays... and your motor shoud still be good as new.

Oil and filter and fuel filter every 5000 and clean reusable air filter at the same time. Clean engine internals?

Cheers Dazz

yeh i think i remember reading somewhere that a guy used to put diesel thru his engine for about 5mins.. to clean it every now and then during an oil change.... anyone else do this ???

solinoid wrote:yeh i think i remember reading somewhere that a guy used to put diesel thru his engine for about 5mins.. to clean it every now and then during an oil change.... anyone else do this ???

Yeah on the OL site where you posted same question BUSTED
Oh hang on so am I

lol so i am seeing 3 forums

i like outerlimits the best tho

bj42turbo wrote:

solinoid wrote:yeh i think i remember reading somewhere that a guy used to put diesel thru his engine for about 5mins.. to clean it every now and then during an oil change.... anyone else do this ???

Yeah on the OL site where you posted same question BUSTED
Oh hang on so am I

this has been mentioned in the toyota forum also

the _actual_ engine flush stuff is about $74 per bottle (single use i think?). Diesel sounds alot cheaper, but would it really work?????

no-one has been able to say wether or not it will work or wetgher or not it will provide adequate lubrication during the flush?

Dont worry about oil going Black. Its a Diesel thing.

Just change oil and filter(s) every 5000ks and forget it.
Diesels (trucks/busses) go for a lonng time on engines with oil reg changed.

Bazzle

Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Also, when I change the oil I run two bottles of oil flush for 20mins before I drop the oil. I use the cheaper brand ($2.99 per bottle) as opposed to the Nulon @8.99 per bottle for the same stuff!!!!

Do people really run a sump full of diesel for a few minutes??? More guts than I've got!!!

Prime your new filters with clean oil half an hour before fitting the filters to the block - saves a few seconds of lower oil pressure. If you have an immobiliser fitted, crank the motor over in the 'immobilised' mode (so it doesn't start) for a few seconds to help prime the oil pump pickup/system etc, at least then the motor is cranking over at around 250rpm instead of 700-900rpm.

bigbluemav wrote:Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Also, when I change the oil I run two bottles of oil flush for 20mins before I drop the oil. I use the cheaper brand ($2.99 per bottle) as opposed to the Nulon @8.99 per bottle for the same stuff!!!!

Do people really run a sump full of diesel for a few minutes??? More guts than I've got!!!

it's not a sump ful of diesel, it's a 1 in 10 mix, one litre diesel to 10 litres oil... jury still out on if it works or not.

as for an imobiliser, you could try cranking it without letting the glowpugs warm, but maybe when glowplugs work properly it takes more than 1 minute to warm them

i run a mazda t 4000 for work i do 10,000 km oil changes and to date have 570,000 ot the clock, in my toyo i do 5000 oil changes. due to smaller sump capacity, 342,000 on clock. i believe if u do regalar services and stick to one brand of oil u should have no worries.

I don't believe in using engine flushes, homemade or bought, if u reckon its dirty change it more often.

bad_religion_au wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Also, when I change the oil I run two bottles of oil flush for 20mins before I drop the oil. I use the cheaper brand ($2.99 per bottle) as opposed to the Nulon @8.99 per bottle for the same stuff!!!!

Do people really run a sump full of diesel for a few minutes??? More guts than I've got!!!

it's not a sump ful of diesel, it's a 1 in 10 mix, one litre diesel to 10 litres oil... jury still out on if it works or not.

as for an imobiliser, you could try cranking it without letting the glowpugs warm, but maybe when glowplugs work properly it takes more than 1 minute to warm them

Guys I'm gonna try this diesel in oil trick. She's dues for new oil in roughly 1000 kms. WHats the 'correct' method of doing this?? Do I empty the oil, change the filter then refill oil and put in the litre of diesel or what?? let me know guys! ( Thats if diesel prices dont keep rising, then I wont be able to afford the litre )

joelthommo wrote:Do I empty the oil, change the filter then refill oil and put in the litre of diesel or what?? let me know guys! ( Thats if diesel prices dont keep rising, then I wont be able to afford the litre )

What the....??? naa dude, its a flush before you drop the oil out, the thoery being that it thins the old oil and will drain better, thereby getting more of the old oil out of areas that may not get removed.

I used a flushing product once for the Feroza, but I reckon just drop it when its hot.

In all my cars i have done oil and filter every 5000ks and fuel every 10000ks.

bigbluemav wrote:Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Quite interested in the CAV fuel filter, anyone else using these?

Just had a look at the Lucas and Hi-flow versions..........are they easy to fit in place of the OE filter?

There is nothing wrong with oil turning black!!!...it does this because it is absorbing all the crap like unburn't fuel etc, it is a feature of oil and something it is designed to do...

bazzle wrote:Dont worry about oil going Black. Its a Diesel thing.

Just change oil and filter(s) every 5000ks and forget it.
Diesels (trucks/busses) go for a lonng time on engines with oil reg changed.

Bazzle

Hi all just adding my bit
Change your oil every 5000km fuel every 50000km and air every 10 to 20000 km depending on your driving i.e. dusty roads or town use. injectors should be done every 100,000 and pump timing checked about the same time with timing belt.
The oil goes black in diesel engines because of the carbon build up from unburnt fuel so if you don’t change your oil it will do some damage after time i.e. extra bearing wear sleeves and pistons.
I have seen diesel engines that haven’t had an oil change in 40 or 50000 come in lol and this is true the oil has been like golden syrup when it was cold and just about as bad when warm
Early model hilux motors i.e. 2.8 relied on oil being changed on the 5000 mark and as some of you would know it ended up with a broken crank if you didn’t.
Anyway that my bit hope it helps

The BJ40 I just picked up wasn't running when I got it and the oil was definately like golden syrup. It was so thick it wouldn't leave reading on the stick. I guess thats why I found 25ltrs of oil in it(no reading). I used diesel to thin it out, drained that. Then re-filled with diesel and ran in for 5 mins, drained that. Then filled it with cheap bi-lo oil for the time being while it sits in the garage and as another flush.

It runs beautifully, doesn't seem to have done any damage at all

I wouldn't recoment it for a truck that is new or if you have no reason to go to such extremes though.

mabsydney wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Quite interested in the CAV fuel filter, anyone else using these?

Just had a look at the Lucas and Hi-flow versions..........are they easy to fit in place of the OE filter?

Mines fitted on the far P/S of the firewall. Best thing ever!! Clear bowl, drain for water/sh*t in alloy base. Mines a Lucas. Filter is about $5 and you get a new set of seals and "O" rings with every filter. As its so cheap, I change it every 5k with oil and filters. I also now use 3x bottles of supercheap oil flush. I put it in and drive home from supercheap, about five minute drive.


Regards

joelthommo wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Also, when I change the oil I run two bottles of oil flush for 20mins before I drop the oil. I use the cheaper brand ($2.99 per bottle) as opposed to the Nulon @8.99 per bottle for the same stuff!!!!

Do people really run a sump full of diesel for a few minutes??? More guts than I've got!!!

it's not a sump ful of diesel, it's a 1 in 10 mix, one litre diesel to 10 litres oil... jury still out on if it works or not.

as for an imobiliser, you could try cranking it without letting the glowpugs warm, but maybe when glowplugs work properly it takes more than 1 minute to warm them

Guys I'm gonna try this diesel in oil trick. She's dues for new oil in roughly 1000 kms. WHats the 'correct' method of doing this?? Do I empty the oil, change the filter then refill oil and put in the litre of diesel or what?? let me know guys! ( Thats if diesel prices dont keep rising, then I wont be able to afford the litre )

flushing an old engine is asking for trouble.

if you havent got a problem, dont try and fix it.

flushing an old engine can make seals leak that previously didnt leak, and can lower your oil pressure as clearances are opened up.

feel like changining your mains?

Only reason you should flush a 2H is if you have high oil pressure that cannot be attributed to other causes, or if you were significantly down on power, again, which cannot be attributed to other causes.

I heard that the old 2.8's (pre 93?) need oil changes every 5000km's but the later 2.8's can go 10,000kms between oil changes no problems?

I still do mine every 5,000 as i am not sure how reliable this source was...

Don't add diesel to oil in the sump. It's called fuel dillution and is a good way to end up with crank case explosions.
5% fuel dillution on a medium size diesel is bad and the oil will be replaced straight away when this amount of dillution is detected. Normally oil will be changed at the 250 Hour mark on these types of engine.
The problem is you don't know if you have any fuel dillution in you sump already and adding more diesel to it will just thin out the mix. This fuel/oil mix can creat a vapour inside the sump and if enough heat is present may cause it to explode.
I have seen the results of this with my own eyes. I had to remove the engine from the bedplates and was passing tools through the holes blown out the side of the block to a mate working on the other side. This was on a 92 series detroit inline 6 cylinder 2 stroke diesel.

Chucky wrote:Don't add diesel to oil in the sump. It's called fuel dillution and is a good way to end up with crank case explosions.
5% fuel dillution on a medium size diesel is bad and the oil will be replaced straight away when this amount of dillution is detected. Normally oil will be changed at the 250 Hour mark on these types of engine.
The problem is you don't know if you have any fuel dillution in you sump already and adding more diesel to it will just thin out the mix. This fuel/oil mix can creat a vapour inside the sump and if enough heat is present may cause it to explode.
I have seen the results of this with my own eyes. I had to remove the engine from the bedplates and was passing tools through the holes blown out the side of the block to a mate working on the other side. This was on a 92 series detroit inline 6 cylinder 2 stroke diesel.

Exactly. One of the reasons for changing diesel oil more frequently is that unlike petrol derv. cannot evapourate from sump oil. Your diesel lube has all the detergents deeded to keep your engine as clean as it needs to be .
Alex

Shadow wrote:

bj42turbo wrote:

solinoid wrote:yeh i think i remember reading somewhere that a guy used to put diesel thru his engine for about 5mins.. to clean it every now and then during an oil change.... anyone else do this ???

Yeah on the OL site where you posted same question BUSTED
Oh hang on so am I

this has been mentioned in the toyota forum also

the _actual_ engine flush stuff is about $74 per bottle (single use i think?). Diesel sounds alot cheaper, but would it really work?????

no-one has been able to say wether or not it will work or wetgher or not it will provide adequate lubrication during the flush?

Don't use engine flush on diesel turbo's as it stuffs them up major, just abit of a advice as a mate has done this

Shadow wrote:
Only reason you should flush a 2H is if you were significantly down on power, again, which cannot be attributed to other causes.

How the hell would you tell with a 2H?

Sorry for the double post

lexi wrote:

Chucky wrote:Don't add diesel to oil in the sump. It's called fuel dillution and is a good way to end up with crank case explosions.
5% fuel dillution on a medium size diesel is bad and the oil will be replaced straight away when this amount of dillution is detected. Normally oil will be changed at the 250 Hour mark on these types of engine.
The problem is you don't know if you have any fuel dillution in you sump already and adding more diesel to it will just thin out the mix. This fuel/oil mix can creat a vapour inside the sump and if enough heat is present may cause it to explode.
I have seen the results of this with my own eyes. I had to remove the engine from the bedplates and was passing tools through the holes blown out the side of the block to a mate working on the other side. This was on a 92 series detroit inline 6 cylinder 2 stroke diesel.

Exactly. One of the reasons for changing diesel oil more frequently is that unlike petrol derv. cannot evapourate from sump oil. Your diesel lube has all the detergents deeded to keep your engine as clean as it needs to be .
Alex

this is so true there is loads of detergents in diesel oil and if you don’t believe us try this out if you have an old shitter of a car put 2L's of diesel oil in it and drive it for a day or two and open the oil cap and have a look at the rocker gear it will be clean as.
As said I wouldn’t even think about putting any engine cleaner in any engine it will only do damage to bearings ect watering down oil is not a good idea just take the engine for a run before draining the oil and the same goes for diffs remember oil is thick when cold but when hot becomes thin to travel better and faster threw oil galleries ect

bigbluemav wrote:

mabsydney wrote:

bigbluemav wrote:Change oil, oil filters (TD42) and fuel filter. The best thing you can buy is a CAV type fuel filter. The unit has a clear bowl underneath and the filter cartridges are about $5. So I change it every 5000km's.

Quite interested in the CAV fuel filter, anyone else using these?

Just had a look at the Lucas and Hi-flow versions..........are they easy to fit in place of the OE filter?

Mines fitted on the far P/S of the firewall. Best thing ever!! Clear bowl, drain for water/sh*t in alloy base. Mines a Lucas. Filter is about $5 and you get a new set of seals and "O" rings with every filter. As its so cheap, I change it every 5k with oil and filters. I also now use 3x bottles of supercheap oil flush. I put it in and drive home from supercheap, about five minute drive.


Regards

3 bottles of flush and then driving home my god man your asking for shit to go wrong. do you know how much that will be thining your oil out. its a a wonder your engine hasnt ate its self

I WORKED OUT IT ONLY COSTS ME $19 FOR OIL AND FILTER IAM LUCKY I DO MINE AT WORK I LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 4 HOURS NOTHING MORE COMING OUT AFTER THAT I DID THE DIFFS MAN JUST TO SEE IF THERE WAS ANY WATER IN IT ASWELL AS DAMAGE BUT ONLY LITTLE FLAKES IN THE REAR AND NOTHING IN THE FRONT