Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Good morning Everybody,

My name is stephane, I own a 90 300Tdi with 2 truetrac's + suspension kit based on +1" coils and +5.5" OME HDJ80 shocks plus a lot of mod's...

I want to add more travel from my front axle and I've heard from Haultech slottec bush from LR4x4 & pirate4x4.

Can you help me by giving me his email adress? (Or web site?)

See U

Some picts of my landy...

Email- tom @ haultech.com include a link to this thread.

Just ensure front uni's wont get near binding when on droop.

Bazzle

bazzle wrote:Just ensure front uni's wont get near binding when on droop.

Bazzle

Hi bazzle,

I don't really understand what you mean, can you be more clear, my english isn't so easy (i'm french)...
you were speaking about the tyre in crossaxle ? Or other ?

Regards

deslandes wrote:

bazzle wrote:Just ensure front uni's wont get near binding when on droop.

Bazzle

Hi bazzle,

I don't really understand what you mean, can you be more clear, my english isn't so easy (i'm french)...
you were speaking about the tyre in crossaxle ? Or other ?

Regards

With slotted bushes and longer travel shock absorbers, the axle can articulate more and the angle of the front drive shaft will exceed the maximum allowable angle of the stock universal joint. A double cardin joint at the transfer case end of the drive shaft is the easiest way to fix that.

Droop is the wheel travelling down below normal ride height. Uni bind is the yoke of the universal joint hitting the flange when operating at too large an angle.

Bush65 wrote:

deslandes wrote:

bazzle wrote:Just ensure front uni's wont get near binding when on droop.

Bazzle

Hi bazzle,

I don't really understand what you mean, can you be more clear, my english isn't so easy (i'm french)...
you were speaking about the tyre in crossaxle ? Or other ?

Regards

With slotted bushes and longer travel shock absorbers, the axle can articulate more and the angle of the front drive shaft will exceed the maximum allowable angle of the stock universal joint. A double cardin joint at the transfer case end of the drive shaft is the easiest way to fix that.

Droop is the wheel travelling down below normal ride height. Uni bind is the yoke of the universal joint hitting the flange when operating at too large an angle.

Thx a lot, everything's clear and I going to put a double cardan disco Td5, do you think it will work?

deslandes wrote:

Bush65 wrote:

deslandes wrote:

bazzle wrote:Just ensure front uni's wont get near binding when on droop.

Bazzle

Hi bazzle,

I don't really understand what you mean, can you be more clear, my english isn't so easy (i'm french)...
you were speaking about the tyre in crossaxle ? Or other ?

Regards

With slotted bushes and longer travel shock absorbers, the axle can articulate more and the angle of the front drive shaft will exceed the maximum allowable angle of the stock universal joint. A double cardin joint at the transfer case end of the drive shaft is the easiest way to fix that.

Droop is the wheel travelling down below normal ride height. Uni bind is the yoke of the universal joint hitting the flange when operating at too large an angle.

Thx a lot, everything's clear and I going to put a double cardan disco Td5, do you think it will work?

dont need the dc joint ,should be fine with original

Ive personally never seen the Uni joints bind when running slotted bushes.

RUFF wrote:Ive personally never seen the Uni joints bind when running slotted bushes.

For some strange reason, TD5 and Puma defender owners seem to be having lots of issues with binding unis - even with only mild lifts. It seems the T-case has been moved/clocked on the newer defenders.

There are a few threads on AULRO about this issue.

I think the angle with a 300Tdi is also different (front of engine higher than V8).

Land Rover has changed uni's over the years - generally progressively worse it seems. It is not so much the series of the joint which is the issue (although they have become smaller and weaker, and also increase the tangential forces at the smaller radius to the bearings/trunnions), but the pissy little ISO flanged yoke part that L.R. use.

Raising static suspension height increases the angle of the uni at the t/case end of the front shaft, then adding further angle during articulation can lead to binding.

I had to use a disco II front drive shaft in my rangie because this problem.

BTW in my previous post, which was intended as an explanation of what Bazzle posted, I should have worded it differently so as not to infer that binding will occur with holey bushes, but that it may occur. I was relying on this being read with Bazzle's post, which was providing a caution to check and ensure that binding does not occur.

Bush65 wrote:I think the angle with a 300Tdi is also different (front of engine higher than V8).

Land Rover has changed uni's over the years - generally progressively worse it seems.

ARB/OME specifically note in their literature that post 1999 110s will need a double cardan front prop if their +2" springs are fitted. However it seems that some (otherwise identical) vehicles can get away without issues and others can't.
Big long thread here on the issue:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-de ... ouble.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


John - How unlike land rover to progressively degrade things over the years - especially with the 110...
Salisbury ===> P38A diff
Thick Trailing Arms ===> Thin trailing arms
Wide spaced bearings ===> Narrow spaced bearings
etc...

This pic compares some prop shafts at max angle with uni-joints at bind.
Top is disco I front
Middle is disco II double cardin
Bottom is Nissan Patrol

Thx for explain...
I use +1 inch springs front and +1.5 inches rear with +2inch front turret with cones and +5.5inches hdj80 shocks, so i will try first with no mods of the uni.