Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi.
New to the Rover scene.
Recently purchased an 82 2 door Rangie. 4 speed manual, maxi drive diff locks, maxi drive axles.

What modifications does everyone recommend to be able to run 36's or 37's?
Do diff ratio's need to be changed? I know the transfer case and gearbox are one unit so I guess changing the transfer is not an option.
Do front and rear panels need cutting?
Will the cv's have been upgraded if the axles were?

Am i dreaming about wanting to run that tyre size with minimal drivetrain issues?
It will be set up as a hardcore weekender not a touring vehicle.

Cheers,
Paul

Nissan GQ or GU diff/axle assemblies, or Nissan front and 80 series rear (for matching diff offset).

If the patrol/cruiser F/R combination is used, the closest match for stock gears are probably 4.11:1/4.1:1 though it is possible to get 4.11:1 gears for 80 series.

Cut guards.

Edit you can probably sell the diffs with maxi lockers easily enough. It is possible that the cv's used with maxi axles are county cv's, they are strongest stock rover cv (except 101 which are too large to fit), but not as strong as aftermarket 4340/300M cv's.

i would be interested in buying both entire diff housings complete with lockers and axels off u if thats the case
cheers sam

custom hauler wrote:i would be interested in buying both entire diff housings complete with lockers and axels off u if thats the case
cheers sam

i got a complete rear

where bouts u located champ and is it all maxi gear???

Bush65 wrote:Nissan GQ or GU diff/axle assemblies, or Nissan front and 80 series rear (for matching diff offset).

If the patrol/cruiser F/R combination is used, the closest match for stock gears are probably 4.11:1/4.1:1 though it is possible to get 4.11:1 gears for 80 series.

Cut guards.

Edit you can probably sell the diffs with maxi lockers easily enough. It is possible that the cv's used with maxi axles are county cv's, they are strongest stock rover cv (except 101 which are too large to fit), but not as strong as aftermarket 4340/300M cv's.

Thanks for the reply.
That's more work than I am prepared to do unfortunately.
Maybe I should reconsider and run 35's?

Are there aftermarket centres with say a 4.3 or 4.9 ratio?
How strong are they?

Am iI best off to stick with the 4 speed or is there a better option?


The car or any part of it is not for sale. Sorry

Cheers,
Paul

custom hauler wrote:where bouts u located champ and is it all maxi gear???

couldn't you google Mirboo North? Its an early maxi 28 spline locker, axles and flanges are maxi aswell, had f all work, car ran stock tyres and an isuzu, so not flogged to death

mistaboz wrote:

Bush65 wrote:Nissan GQ or GU diff/axle assemblies, or Nissan front and 80 series rear (for matching diff offset).

If the patrol/cruiser F/R combination is used, the closest match for stock gears are probably 4.11:1/4.1:1 though it is possible to get 4.11:1 gears for 80 series.

Cut guards.

Edit you can probably sell the diffs with maxi lockers easily enough. It is possible that the cv's used with maxi axles are county cv's, they are strongest stock rover cv (except 101 which are too large to fit), but not as strong as aftermarket 4340/300M cv's.

Thanks for the reply.
That's more work than I am prepared to do unfortunately.
Maybe I should reconsider and run 35's?

Are there aftermarket centres with say a 4.3 or 4.9 ratio?
How strong are they?

Am iI best off to stick with the 4 speed or is there a better option?


The car or any part of it is not for sale. Sorry

Cheers,
Paul

What you have will handle 35" tyres reasonably well - plenty of people use 35's with maxi-drive lockers and axles. The CV's are the weakest part in your driveline, but if you upgrade them the ring and pinion will become the weak link.

AFAIK the only option you have for strong cv's are the Ashcroft replacement for the Land Rover AEU2522 (other aftermarket cv's won't have 23 spline centres to match your maxi-drive axles) - I'm assuming you have AEU2522 cv's now.

I assume you have the standard 3.54:1 R&P now, the only other Land Rover R&P is the weak 4.7:1 used in series landys (don't even think of going there).

For a stronger ring and pinion or lower ratio and the best bolt-in option to suit your maxi lockers, I would be looking at Ashcrofts new range http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk ... t&catId=12

Until Ashcroft bought out those R&P it was better to replace the stock centre with Toyota hilux rear and 80 series front in the Land Rover diff housing. But you would also have to get lockers and aftermarket axles and cv's - loose the maxi stuff.

The difference in work/cost to replacing complete axle assemblies with Patrol/Landcruiser stuff compared to hilux diffs in rover housings is small and you get stronger diffs, wider track and better brakes, plus you can get replacement parts easier and in a far shorter time than aftermarket axles and cv's.

Your 4 speed is the strongest gearbox ever in a Land Rover. They are getting long in the tooth now and were always truck/agricultural like. The weaknesses are the thrust bearings in the transfer case and the cross pins in the centre diff (you must lock the centre diff in low traction conditions or risk wear/failure of the centre diff). There are some high range gearing options, but none for changing low range.

6.5 rangie wrote:

custom hauler wrote:where bouts u located champ and is it all maxi gear???

couldn't you google Mirboo North? Its an early maxi 28 spline locker, axles and flanges are maxi aswell, had f all work, car ran stock tyres and an isuzu, so not flogged to death

ahh sorry mate didnt see that in the corner of the screen and damit y does all the good gear have to be so damn far away!!
im from western sydney lol no one has any rover gear up here its crap lol

how much would u be chasin for sumthing like that anyways????

Check it..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/82-Range-Rover-4 ... 2c5803827b" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

hey mate,
in my opinion i dont know why people suggest toyota/ nissan diff conversions. we own an 82 2 door with 350 chev maxi rear and air locker front with standard cvs and axles running 37 inch wranglers. this truck has been to menai, oxford falls, porters road, winchbreak pass, wattagans road, fraser island etc and never broken a thing, it all comes down to how you drive your vehicle. mate if you need any advice pm me.
cheers

i'm tipping your maxi rear will have maxi axles not stock ones. standard rover axles are made of cheese, there diffs are made of slightly better cheese

you cant have a Maxirdive locker WITHOUT Maxidrive axles...the locking side atleast anyway.

To run 37s with minimal lift you need to chop alot of the panels.
I ran 37" creepys unlocked on a rover with maxi gear (and heat treated AUE2522 CVs) throughout for over a year, then I ran with a rear locker for another 6 months, never broke a thing.
I drove it often and fairly hard.

Five years on and numerous rangies later, I went wheeling twice unlocked and then twice locked with the same tyres and with better diff internals and broke a crown wheel in an very easy step up, The only tough action the diffs had seen was Land Rover hill at Rover Park, which was driven prior to the lockers being connected, hence a bit more stick was given to the differentials. But they are two very opposing stories from me, so you can imagine the differing opinions about the place.

Everyone has different stories and diiferent driving abilitys as well as variances in terrain to tackle. I say stick with the maxi gear, get the tyres and cut the guards to make them fit. Learn as you go, it's the best way, all though generally more expensive
Also regarding gearing - The first vehcile in my post above ran standard gearing and never let me down. Sure it wasn't a power house onroad, but it did the job just fine day after day.

Cheers
Grimace

grimace, how much cutting would be required to run 37's with say no lift? would you need to enlarge the wheel tubs in the rear, and re arrange the battery holders in the engine bay? hoping to be able to clear 37's on the standard bump stops, or will they need to be lowered a bit? any help much appreciated.
cheers, mat

Id say you would need to enlarge both front and rear wheel wells. I got way with 37s on 3" lift but always had heavy scrubbing at full flex, before it even got to the bump stops. I got used to it and as i was not into high speed or jumping it was fine.

I could not see it working well with no lift and standard bump stops. Extended bump stops is an option but there isn't much bump clearance to begin with on a standard height Rangie, so how bigger an extension is possible is something that would need to be considered (1.5 - 2" max i'd presume).

I think a standard height classic with a bobtail and 37" rubber would be ubber cool and stable, so if you do decide to do it, put some pics up!

at the rate i work pics will be a long time away, planning on moving the back axle back about 1.5" and the front forwad by an inch, but bobtailing is prob not going to happen. i have started a thread 440bb range rover but theres not much happening

will the steering lock have to be reduced much with 37's. or do you just offset enough to clear the control arms

440 BB wrote:will the steering lock have to be reduced much with 37's. or do you just offset enough to clear the control arms

I found the 37s on 16x8s with -25 offset had the same lock as 33s on 0 offset rims. Both instances the tyres would just foul on the radius arm.
Thank you for reminding me I need to adjust the tabs on my current rover, it turns like a bus at the moment!