Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi i have a range rover 2dr running 35's and standard diffs im looking at buying axles and a diff lock or two, but not sure whether its worth converting to 24 spline and at what cost?

I had Jacmac rebroach my Detroit 10 spline to fit his HD axles ,about 15 years ago I must admit>LOL

I suggest that you talk to whoever you are going to buy the axles from before doing anything to find the most economical way. The Detroit had more meat around the carriers than a standard diff centre that enabled the rebroaching bigger.
I believe the aftermarket axles are far stronger than 32 spline, and seeing you will have to have the diff modified anyway, maybe its better to go aftermarket from the start.
Regards Philip A

ok so basically stick with the diffs i have but get them fixed up, obviously there are many options but which lockers are best to go with with regards to strength vs price?

I would go 24 spline from the start, especially as you will be running 35's and lockers, everything is much stronger than 10 spline. Best to do it right from the start

cheers

so new diff centres axles lockers etc? are they that much stronger than 10 spline? it just seems a huge cost compared to 10 spline

24 spline axles are larger diameter than 10 spline so will be stronger if all else is the same (material etc.). However stock 24 spline axles do not provide a significant strength increase (material ???). Also when front axles were changed to 24 spline, the cv's were also made smaller and the axle diameter reduced at the cv end to suit. However after market 24 spline axles and cv's address those issues.

The stock 2 pinion diff centre is the weakest part of the rover driveline. It is remarkable that yours haven't failed yet with 35" tyres. Fitting a diff locker will fix that as they all use 4 pinion diffs.

You were talking of getting lockers - as these contain the diff centre it is better to get a 24 spline locker. The downside is that you would have to upgrade to 24 spline axles at the same time. If your rangie has really early diffs you may have bearing size issues - if so better to rustle up some later diffs.

Cheapest option with lockers is a detroit rear, and trutrac front from the US (but trutrac is not a locker). Other locker options include arb air locker, or jacmac air or vacuum locker (best IMHO).

so if i could locate a disco series 1 with 24 splines front and rear and could get the complete centres and axles i could swap striaght over and be better off straight away and then buy a locker and axles to suit that diff?

Ye Olde Rangie wrote:so if i could locate a disco series 1 with 24 splines front and rear and could get the complete centres and axles i could swap striaght over and be better off straight away and then buy a locker and axles to suit that diff?

Yes, but the disco axles have smaller CV's.

so will these break easier? im trying to find some 24splines to convert the whole lot but what exactly do i need to convert mine or is it a matter of changing housings or just internals?

Ye Olde Rangie wrote:so will these break easier? im trying to find some 24splines to convert the whole lot but what exactly do i need to convert mine or is it a matter of changing housings or just internals?

I think it's better to upgrade your 10 splines with stronger half shafts and a stronger diff. This way you can keep the larger CV's and stub shafts.
I'm happy with the disco 24 spline stuff strength wise because I never plan to run big rubber. 235/85 is as big as I expect to go on this vehicle.

Ye Olde Rangie wrote:so will these break easier? im trying to find some 24splines to convert the whole lot but what exactly do i need to convert mine or is it a matter of changing housings or just internals?

Like John (Bush65) already said, the factory 24 spline is not really an upgrade - not for 35" tyres.
If you want it strong, you will need first some diff lockers to replace your center, than 24 spline aftermarket axles and cv's.
After that the crown wheel and pinion will fail but you get after market c&p as well.

Very expensive but should last with 35" and Rover engine.

The cheaper way will be complete Nissan Patrol front and Toyota 80 Series rear diffs.
You get them for ~$200 each and they are stronger, better breaks, more track width, better ratio, higher steering, less drive shaft problems in the front and more rims to choose from.
But it is a lot of welding involved, lost of under diff clearance, engineering is needed and you will need to buy flares.
If you put a Nissan center in the rear Toyota housing, you will get a lot more diff ratios to choose from.

Hope that helps
Chris

yeah i thought about swapping to nissan and toyota diffs but id rather not go that way i have flares and new wheels and rubber so id rather not change them now so id like to stick with the rover diffs i think i might have axles now and possibly a centre what more do i need and will the centres bolt in or is there still mods needed to do to make this work? thanks for all the info and advise

The 24 spline diffs will bolt into your axle housings. The 24 spline axles will not suit your 10 spline hubs, but by swapping several parts it can be done.

Or you could fit complete, late (after about 1994) disco I axle assemblies.

Strength wise you gain practically nothing by putting in stock rover 24 spline diffs or axles or complete disco axle assemblies.

But when comparing after market axles, then 24 spline axles are significantly stronger than 10 spline. If fitting stronger axles is a goal then after market 24 spline (not 10 spline) axles is the most effective option - as is fitting 24 spline lockers at the same time.

As I said before, the 2 pinion diff centre is the weakest part of the drive train - a locker will fix that and some other issues.

Once you overcome the weak diff centre, the axles become the weak link. You will need after market axles to fix that.

As Chris said then you will bust stock crown wheels and pinions with 35" tyres, unless you drive very carefully. .....

Ashcroft Transmission in the UK made a rig to test Land Rover axles and cv's to find the torque and angle of twist where they break. They published the results as shown in the following pics.

I have a complete maxi drive rear diff (disc to disc) with locker, h/duty axles and drive flanges for sale if your interested, will bolt straight in yours and atleast solve your rear diff issues

easy done pm me and we'll talk $$$

so your saying, stick a hand bag in and all will be good , hmm could be spam that one

doesn't make sense now, obviuosly the spammer was found