Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just registered on the forum...so go easy

I have recently bought my first Rangie - a one owner 86 3.5 efi and am slowly fixing all the previous owners stuff ups and modifying it at the same time. I have fitted 2" lift springs and bilstein stocks and steering damper...it now pulls to the right and won't steer in a straight line.

Any ideas?

It is (partially) the Bilstein steering damper. As I undertand it (second hand info.), they are pressurized and apply a force to the steering causing it to pull to the right....... I'd suggest returning it and getting a style that does not apply force to the steering.

The lift also decrease castor which makes the steering less self centering. You can get offset radius arm bushing or bent radius arms to get castor back to normal.

Red90 is right in theory. But the steering dampers are not heavily pressurized, and fitting one to my D110 hasn't caused any ill effects. Look elsewhere for the problem.

If you lift your fron axle off the ground, do the wheels both rotate with the same resistance?

It will cause the steering to pull unless you have adequate swivel preload to hold it back. Since most people don't have enough preload, most people get the pull effect.

It is a bad design for a steering damper. My suggestion still stand to get a different style. The genuine ones are fine. If you want more dampening, then get an OME one.

All I'm saying is, 86MUD just bought his Blingenstein, and I'm convinced trashing it won't solve his problem. Fixing preload is free, throwing away brand new dampers is not. What he buys next time around is a different thing, but I am pleased with my choice.

Gas pressure steering dampers will allways push ever so slightly BUT THIS WILL NOT cause the problem you have, swivell preload is the culprit and the rasied suspension also helps to agrivate the problem.

To Fix:

1: swivell preload.
2: castor correction.

Once these 2 are done all problems wil be solved.

Michael.

Well, I know quite few people who have put on Bilstein dampers and had this happen.

Tell you what. Take the damper off (five minutes). See if it solve the problem. If it does, get a brand that does not have force built in.

You should also chck preload, but that should happen regardless. 2" lift realy should not require castor correction.

I've got a Bilstein damper fitted, and it isn't a problem. The front end can be on axle stands and nothing moves, and I've got reduced caster thanks to a 2" spring lift.
A mate fitted a Bilstein (suitably valved) as a roll damper on a mono shock race car. It didn't make the car lean.

I've heard of a De Carbon steering damper severly pushing the steering, to the extent that the Landy would drive in circles. I suspect that swivel pre-load was the culprit there, although excessive nitrogen pressure could do it.
This bloke fitted a twin tube type, problem solved.

Rick.

Ive also tried in the past a bilstein that had a gas bias. It made the vehicle just pull enough to be annoying. I removed it and prob went away. Sold it and fitted an OME. Made driving on flat rd a joy again.

1st remove and see if prob goes
2nd try swapping front wheels side to side

Bazzle

Thanks to all the info...I will first try driving without the damper...If that doesn't make much difference...then i will look at axle preload.

Another queation...I am looking at a long range fuel tank...Is there a preferred supplier? ARB stock a longranger (130L) for around $1000. any others around? I have been putting off installing one because I will have to remove the damn rear bar.

Cheers

red90 wrote:2" lift realy should not require castor correction.

Your right it SHOULDN'T....But I have a 84 4dr RR that was stock standard and fitted 2" springs and that sent the castor down to 22 degrees on both sides, drive like a drunken horse, in the middle of bending front arms and fitting Sam's slotted bush's and elongating the swivel ball mounting holes

......castor down to 22 degrees on both sides,

DAS,
If you've got 22 degrees of caster, you must have forearms bigger than a leg o ham

Rick.

Have both these problems, just have to get off my arse and fix them

86MUD wrote:Another queation...I am looking at a long range fuel tank...Is there a preferred supplier? ARB stock a longranger (130L) for around $1000. any others around? I have been putting off installing one because I will have to remove the damn rear bar.

If you are interested PM me and I can give you the number of someone in Brisbane who makes long range and genuine tanks for some of the LR parts places. The price would be less than $250 for the tank.