Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey,

Ive run into a few dramas with my 1hzt. I might be looking at a new head or maybe even a new long block.. was speaking with a engine rebuilder and he said youll have big dramas buying a reco'd long 1hz and bolting everything up, and running a turbo. He said the rings and what not will not bed in properly and youll have issues from the get go. To me this all makes sense but im just wondering what you guys think? If it comes to it, do i just buy a used 1hz with some km's on it?

cheers

did he explain why?

it makes no sense to me, how would it be any different to rebuilding a factory turbo'd engine?

he said having a boosted crank case will force pressure on the engine when its trying to bed in, thus causing unsettled rings etc.

are you sure this guy knows his business? I always understood combustion pressure forced the rings out against the cylinder walls and gave you the gas seal and at the same time bedded in new rings and bores. I strongly suggest you get another opinion from a qualified man. I'm sure I'm right but I don't have the papers to back me up. any other comments would be interesting.

1HZ + turbo = trouble
if you are thinking of spending money on a 1hz
the head is just not made for turbo (indirect injection)
most people dont realise they have a problem till they stuff their engine cause it runs fine right till the end
its time to take a factory turbo for a drive and see the light
you will be up for a rebuild again soon enough in the 1HZ
what i did was chucked a second hand head on my 1hz sold it sold the turbo kit separate i ended up with about 4 grand
to do the 1hz as best you can you need to get a boost compensator fitted and best to get your pump done at the same time
all that adds up to 2 grand
so you are looking at 6 grand
if you just go buy a factory turbo motor you will never look back it does not cost much more and you end up with a reliable engine that uses 30% less fuel while putting out more power

so you rekin jump straight into a 1hd-t or something? will they go straight infront of a 1hz gearbox etc? same alternator and powersteer pump?

I really want to get a 1hdt its just i dont have the money, already spent crazy amounts resulting in disapointment..

sweeping generalised statements can be misleading. 1hz, turbo fitted at 90k km now done 370k km. yes I did destroy a head but when a lower hose splits and you drive with no water any engine will die. mine was on the point of siezing and the bores were scuffed but it has done another 108k km and still doesn't burn oil. sure they aren't powerfull and they aren't economical, but for my money they are tough.

yep i would definatly bolt in one of the factory turbo's they can put up with the boost as they were made for it (different cylinder design)

1hdt bolts straight in only requiring a custom clutch fricton plate to fit, or you can just run your 1hz flywheel and clutch . - better
1hdft same deal - even better
1hdfte ute version same deal but wiring mods (i can supply drop in loom if you go this way ) -a lot better
1hdfte 100 series version same as above but must run intercooler - by far the best

thrashlux wrote:yep i would definatly bolt in one of the factory turbo's they can put up with the boost as they were made for it (different cylinder design)

1hdt bolts straight in only requiring a custom clutch fricton plate to fit, or you can just run your 1hz flywheel and clutch . - better
1hdft same deal - even better
1hdfte ute version same deal but wiring mods (i can supply drop in loom if you go this way ) -a lot better
1hdfte 100 series version same as above but must run intercooler - by far the best

assuming this is for a 100 series
i wouldnt run 1hd in front of a R series box. its asking for trouble.
If you want more info on 1hdfte conversion or a workshop who knows how to do the job properly. Talk to Total Care 4wd. they are the gurus in this conversion and have completed a fair whack of them. I know from seeing some of the conversions its not just a matter of bolting the motor and loom in. If you only do this you will have issues down the track

popeyehj60 wrote:

thrashlux wrote:yep i would definatly bolt in one of the factory turbo's they can put up with the boost as they were made for it (different cylinder design)

1hdt bolts straight in only requiring a custom clutch fricton plate to fit, or you can just run your 1hz flywheel and clutch . - better
1hdft same deal - even better
1hdfte ute version same deal but wiring mods (i can supply drop in loom if you go this way ) -a lot better
1hdfte 100 series version same as above but must run intercooler - by far the best

assuming this is for a 100 series
i wouldnt run 1hd in front of a R series box. its asking for trouble.
If you want more info on 1hdfte conversion or a workshop who knows how to do the job properly. Talk to Total Care 4wd. they are the gurus in this conversion and have completed a fair whack of them. I know from seeing some of the conversions its not just a matter of bolting the motor and loom in. If you only do this you will have issues down the track

i have personally done several of these conversions with my own hands to 80 series and that is all that is required plus exhaust but that is a given right?
i did assume it was an 80 series
if its a 100series you will want a h series box

ok you have a 105
so you will need a box from a 105 petrol with a 80 series 1hz bellhousing
you will need one soon enough with your 1hzt anyway

maybe you can do a trade in on your r series i am sure they are in big demand

why wouldn't you just use the gearbox that comes with the motor. that way its all factory when it comes to clutches etc.
also have the option of running the 5 speed auto with the 1hdfte.

seems to be a lot of fucking around sourcing 80 series running gear when u can just use the running gear that comes with the motor standard

popeyehj60 wrote:why wouldn't you just use the gearbox that comes with the motor. that way its all factory when it comes to clutches etc.
also have the option of running the 5 speed auto with the 1hdfte.

seems to be a lot of . around sourcing 80 series running gear when u can just use the running gear that comes with the motor standard

depends some people dont want an auto and the manuals are rare so thats why i suggested the "ONE O FIVE SERIES PETROL MANUAL BOX"= h series box
if you run this box with an 80 series 1hz bellhousing(bellhousing only you can run a standard TD flywheel and clutch no mods
by the way 1hz bell housings ant that hard to find
if you do this you dont have to swap the whole body loom but just use a stand alone engine loom (drop in loom)
but hey what would i know i am not a guru

He's lying....Thrashlux is the Guru. He converted my 94 petrol 80 series with the 100 series FTE in a week. That was swapping all the fuel lines, makeing me up a front mount intercooler and fitting a beaudesert 3 inch system. He also had all the wiring sorted in 1 night......and that was after a few drinks as well

Straight after he fitted it we did a 2 week trip up cape york and it didn't miss a beat (apart from damaged radiator.....my fault ). The 100 series FTE is the one you want. Anything less is a waste of time and money.

what would this conversion be worth into a 91 model 80 petrol auto as i like the 1hdfte or 1hdft motors have driven some of them and they hall for a factory desiel that is.

crazy eyes wrote:what would this conversion be worth into a 91 model 80 petrol auto as i like the 1hdfte or 1hdft motors have driven some of them and they hall for a factory desiel that is.

the main cost is the engine its self
would you want it to remain auto? if 4 speed it will bolt in
if 5 speed u may need new drive shafts
because yours is a 91 petrol i am guessing it has a 3f, so new chassis mounts would have to be put on (no biggy) just have to rob them from a 1hz or 1fz chassis
the wiring is no problem
engines go from $ 7000 -11000 depending on location and condition with or without box etc
plus you want a good exhaust i recommend beaudesert so 900-1000
intercooler well many options but i like big air to air so 500-1500 depending on brand etc-
i will charge between 3k and 4k depending on combo ie auto /manual -petrol/diesel- 3f/late
but thats everything fitted and car drive in drive out
all parts paid for by owner

some pics of a couple of the cars part way thru conversion








intercooler on the last car ebay special i just modified the inlet and outlet

hi thrashlux how can i get in contact with you as i have a few question about some different ideas for motors into this car and want to ask some tech questions . I can do most of the work but wireing is a major drahma for me . can i get your contact details please easyer to talk on the phone than on ere.

crazy eyes wrote:hi thrashlux how can i get in contact with you as i have a few question about some different ideas for motors into this car and want to ask some tech questions . I can do most of the work but wireing is a major drahma for me . can i get your contact details please easyer to talk on the phone than on ere.

no worries at all
i can just do the wiring and post it if you like
i can do as much or as little as you want
pm me i will send email and phone number

cheers

If using the A750 5 speed auto, the 100 series rear tailshaft bolts into the 80 series no worries, but you will either have to get the 100 series/80 series front shaft extended. While your at it, piss the EGR and glow screen off. The FTE/5 sp. auto has it all over any other versions of 1H series, it deadset drives like a petrol, but uses bugger all fuel. Great tow motor/gbox combo......

What did he mean by boosted crankcase???

While i agree that if your up for a rebuild it might be a good time to look at 1hdt conversion i dont believe that 1hz + turbo = trouble.

I have a 1hz in my 75 series. With a t03 off an rb30, 14.4lb boost and a front mount intercooler it goes really well. It sees the governor all the time, i drive it hard. It has been dynoed and tuned properly though and im festitious on the maintenance. The pyro doesnt exceed 580. I think that alot of the time the engine gets the blame but its the fault of the person doing the turboing and not setting up the fuel properly and making sure the pump and injectors are up to scratch.

Its either luck of the draw or its just that people dont look after them properly.
My 1Hz has had a turbo fitted for well over 200,000km runs like a dream and has never had an issue with a total of 430,000km on the motor now I reckon its doing OK.
You can source an exchange 1HZ full reco for $3500 add another $2000 for injectors and pump overhaul and sundries and I reckon its cheap motoring.

That makes at least three of us who don't agree with the equasion 1hz + turbo = trouble. And we still don't know what your diesel guru meant by a boosted crankcase!

old ed wrote:That makes at least three of us who don't agree with the equasion 1hz + turbo = trouble. And we still don't know what your diesel guru meant by a boosted crankcase!

Yeh I dont get that either, mine has a breather routed through an oil catch can into the inlet between the filter and the turbo and there is no crankcase pressure. Thats the whole idea of a breather. Sounds a bit suss too me bedding rings dont allow that much blow by.

I just quickly read the thread again and can't find anything about a "boosted crankcase".......ran a search still nothing.

old ed wrote:That makes at least three of us who don't agree with the equasion 1hz + turbo = trouble.

thats because you guys must be the lucky ones who's head has not cracked yet its luck of the draw in this respect
and yes its the engines fault
its the fact it has precom chambers with indirect injection
this has nothing to do with how well the engine is serviced

obviously all three of you guys have pulled your heads off and found no cracking right????????????
thats the only way you will know

Splitpin wrote:I just quickly read the thread again and can't find anything about a "boosted crankcase".......ran a search still nothing.

Maybe read it slowly, or search for the correct phrase?

3rd post in the thread...

Feass wrote:he said having a boosted crank case will force pressure on the engine when its trying to bed in, thus causing unsettled rings etc.

thrashlux wrote:

old ed wrote:That makes at least three of us who don't agree with the equasion 1hz + turbo = trouble.

thats because you guys must be the lucky ones who's head has not cracked yet its luck of the draw in this respect
and yes its the engines fault
its the fact it has precom chambers with indirect injection
this has nothing to do with how well the engine is serviced

obviously all three of you guys have pulled your heads off and found no cracking right????????????
thats the only way you will know

Does the precombustion chamber cracking only occur with boosted engines, or does that happen anyway?

SimonInAustralia wrote:

thrashlux wrote:

old ed wrote:That makes at least three of us who don't agree with the equasion 1hz + turbo = trouble.

thats because you guys must be the lucky ones who's head has not cracked yet its luck of the draw in this respect
and yes its the engines fault
its the fact it has precom chambers with indirect injection
this has nothing to do with how well the engine is serviced

obviously all three of you guys have pulled your heads off and found no cracking right????????????
thats the only way you will know

Does the precomp chamber cracking only occur with boosted engines, or does that happen anyway?

it can occur in hard worked non boosted engines but on a much lower scale and rarely if ever spread to the head its self which is what kills the 1HZ when turboed
its the extra boost and heat that accelerates this by 10x
if you ask an engine rebuilder about 1hz heads he would be able to tell which head has had a turbo for any length of time

SimonInAustralia wrote:Does the precombustion chamber cracking only occur with boosted engines, or does that happen anyway?

Every head I've pulled off a 1hz has been cracked. But why else would you pull it off? The head gaskets only go if the engine has been cooked and the head warped bad enough for it to lift and spit oil out the back. The problem is, you rarely pull a head off a healthy engine, there may be small cracks in them already, who knows. Yes they do crack without turbo's fitted, but it's all about heat and a turboed engine will run hotter than a standard one.