Outer Limits 4x4 Board

In the UK they can buy Wynns EGR cleaning spray. Is anything like that available in NZ or Aus?
If not, has anyone found a good aerosol solvent that will dissolve EGR paste? I took the manifold off this particular engine a year or so ago and got that reasonably clean, but I couldn't get into the head ports as I would have liked.

Subaru Upper cyl cleaner? (Seafoam)

From Sub delaers ~$20

Bazzle

I'll ask my Wynns rep next time he's in. Never heard of it before but after a quick look on google it seems like it works well.

Wynns has some cleaners that are not available to the general public - must be a mech shop.
Its pretty nasty stuff for people (cancer causing etc), and its been a while since I have seen it - but then I havent been looking

Acetone (lacquer paint thinner) is a good cleaner for manifolds and its cheapish although it dries quiclky. Obviously you need to be careful with it

Another thing thats cheap is petrol. You can put these in a pump sprayer

http://autofix.com.au/blog/how-to-clean ... ody-update" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.irday.com/html/Engine%20fuel ... /9569.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I was thinking about petrol or diesel, I guess I need a few lumps of EGR paste and try some common chemicals to see what works best.
Luckily enough I think I have a spare EGR pipe kicking around the parts bin.

I'm also thinking it's best to do this just before an oil change. Some of the gunk will be washed down past the rings.

Most shops do the clean at service time anyway, so what you say makes sense about an oil change etc

bazzle wrote:Subaru Upper cyl cleaner? (Seafoam)

From Sub delaers ~$20

Bazzle

X2 plus you can use it to unseize bolts etc

Awesome stuff

turbo gu wrote:

bazzle wrote:Subaru Upper cyl cleaner? (Seafoam)

From Sub delaers ~$20

Bazzle

X2 plus you can use it to unseize bolts etc

Awesome stuff

So this is the same stuff they sell in the states? There's references to seafoam all through US forums.

Clanky wrote:Most shops do the clean at service time anyway, so what you say makes sense about an oil change etc

Sorry mate but they don't.

I tried this today.
Since the EGR paste starts with carbon mixing with oil from the breather, I decided the breather on the intake manifold was a good place to introduce the solvent. I decided to use diesel, mainly because I had a jerry can full of it.
I simply attached a funnel and hose and started swilling diesel down while the engine was on fast idle. Each swill was probably 5-10cc.

At the start there was a long delay between introducing diesel and having the engine pick it up. This results in revs increase and if you give it too much, seriously loud knocking from pre-ignition. Several times I took precautionary steps back.
This causes large amounts of white, grey and blue smoke to come out the exhaust. Do not do this in a built up area, warn anyone watching just incase they come running with an extinguisher.

As more and more is dissolved there becomes a smaller delay between swilling in diesel and the engine picking up revs. Don't get carried away swilling in more and more because when it finally gets to the cylinders you'll won't like the results.
I took the car for a run halfway through, the white/blue smoke was embarrassing and took almost 1km of driving to die down. When I was finally done it took only a few hundred metres of driving to clear up.

How did it go? Well I think it made a difference. Timed 0-100km runs don't show any real difference but it feels nippier and revs more freely, which is what you'd expect if it was previously being starved of air. What I'm really looking for is a fuel economy gain to make up for the bigger tyres it now has to push.

This video of "subaru upper cylinder cleaner" is exactly what my exhaust ran like.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdd-9fS-5Fo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Be very careful introducing liquid into a diesel, they can hydraulic with a very small amount cracking pre comb chambers etc.

Bazzle

bazzle wrote:Be very careful introducing liquid into a diesel, they can hydraulic with a very small amount cracking pre comb chambers etc.

Bazzle

Yes I'm aware of that. That's why I ran it at a fast idle, to minimise the amount of fluid in each cylinder. Allowing the fluid to pool, then run would be the worst.
No precombustion chambers here. All my diesels are direct injection.

I just spoke to my Rep about this product. Apparently it has just been released here in Australia, maybe about a month and half to two months ago. I imagine it will be available in NZ shortly if it's not already released there.

He was saying that the 100 series TDs are one of the worst for EGR residue and tend to build up quite a thick layer that won't completely clear with this stuff, well not with 1 application. But seeing as you have already cleaned out the manifold somewhat you should have a pretty good shot.

Cleaning of Manifolds etc:
Many years ago, I had a Range Rover which had been carefully serviced e very 10000 km. The only problem was that it took about 18 months to get that 10000 km and it was all short run stuff. Result was that the oil galleries to the valve rockers were nearly completely blocked with baked on sludge. I had the heads (aluminuim) off looking for a noise (it turned out to be 2 cast iron liners which had come loose in the aluminium block casting), and my friend got a 5 gallon drum and nearly filled it with water and a few handfuls of OMO washing powder. We boiled the drum up for about 30 minutes and the head came out very shite and briney. No damage to the surfaces and internally as clean as a whistle. If you have the car in pieces and bits need cleaning, it is easy and cheap and it works. I would try a small piece first to check for no nasty side effects .

Old dish washers work really well as parts washers too... but finding one big enough to fit a toyo H motor head into would be interesting!

RAY185 wrote:He was saying that the 100 series TDs are one of the worst for EGR residue and tend to build up quite a thick layer .

Mitsu 3.2DiD in the triton - my inlet manifold had closed to a ~10mm aperature in under 20,000km, swirl chambers were rooted too...