Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey fellas i have just put a 5 inch lift under my swb gq and am getting a bad vibration at about 40 kph and gets worse currantly i have 5 inch coils ,rs 9000s all round ajustable panard rods front and rear, superior drop boxes and put new radius arm bushes in. i spaced the gearbox cross member down 15 mm but am thinkin it eiter needs to be spaced down more and or i should put some ajustable uppers and lowers in the rear to fix the angle on the rear tail shaft any input or advise would be great cheers

Longer lowers will help alot and if you're good with a welder, you can do it yourself. About 30mm longer is all that's needed. I've even seen people go as far as putting a double-cardin joint in to eliminate the vibes in big lifted SWBs.

Wouldn't hurt with the longer lowers and gearbox spacers but the first thing you need to do is get upper adjustable arms and spend some time adjusting them

Shane

thanks guys i thought as much i have always owned long wheel based cars so its a bit of a change. im pretty handy winth a welder aand have all the tools i need for the job at work so ill be jumping on it first thing monday i cant wait to take this thing wheeling and see how it goes

5 inches is a lot on a shorty without a double carden joint. Some have managed to adjust their arms enough to get the vibrations to an acceptable level but plenty of others haven't.

You have a few options:
1 Fit a double carden joint at the transfer end of your driveshaft and rotate your rear diff so the universal joint at the pinion is running 0 degrees angle.
2 Fit a high pinion rear diff (combination of a front and rear centre)
3 Lower the gearbox crossmember and rotate the diff (fitting different length control arms) so both universal joints are running at the same angle.

I've run a double carden joint as a 7 inch lift and now a 4 inch lift for the past 8 years in mine with no problems at all but plenty of others have solved the issues using the other methods too. HTH

Good information but I would try the upper adjustable arms first.
Gearbox spacers 2nd.
High Pinion diffs seems like a good idea but I personally haven't tried it.

I would leave the double cardin joint as the last resort because when you rotate your rear diff so it points directly up the tailshaft you also have to rotate your coil mounts on the axle housing and your shock mounts on the axle housing.

Every SWB is different so we can't give difinitive answers.

If it is flex you want we can do a 4" lift Ultra flexy coil that will flex like a 6" lift.

Cheers
SHane

how much do you think i would have to ajust the upper and lower on a swb with only 3in lift, it gets a vibration from 95 to 105 so its really annoying cause you eather have to speed or go slow as on the highway. i will doing this all myself without ajustable control arms (ie cutting and lengthening) so i wanna get it right the first time

thanks for all the imput guys im thinkin ill make some new uppers and lowers for the mean time and see how that pans out. im thinkin if i cant get the diff to the angle i need without the spring lookin like it will pop out l ill take the diff out and rotate all the mounts and spring perches. i lowered the gearbox cross member another 10mm today and it made a bit of a differance so im hoping rotating it a lil might help also.

another question if yous dont mind appart from losing groud clearance what are the problems with lowering the gearbox crossmember. i was thinking if you took it 2 far you would allso be moving your engine 2 a point it shouldnt be

I can't foresee any issues with the engine. It is pivoting on the engine mounts so it doesn't affect it much.

yeah the only other thing might be the fan but it should be good ass for the coils u mentioned earlier (suspension stuff)i actually work as a parts fitter for tjm hunter valley so i get all my stuff through work thanks 4 the offer anyway i had never heard of u guys before do u only advertise over the net

Oldhenry wrote:if i cant get the diff to the angle i need without the spring lookin like it will pop out l ill take the diff out and rotate all the mounts and spring perches.

You need to angle the diff pinion back downwards, not up, which should improve the angle on how your springs currently look. UNLESS you fit a double cardan shaft.

Oldhenry wrote:yeah the only other thing might be the fan but it should be good ass for the coils u mentioned earlier (suspension stuff)i actually work as a parts fitter for tjm hunter valley so i get all my stuff through work thanks 4 the offer anyway i had never heard of u guys before do u only advertise over the net

I advertise in 4wd action mag, sponsor competitions and we are just starting some small time foxtel advertising.
We are bringing out ultra flexy coils with more flex then our flexy coils very soon.

If you go the adj top arm route (they need to be shorter) you must make them so the pinion and the transfer flanges are parallel. Makeing them adj with a big threaded inner and jam nuts works ok.
This will work BUT subjects the unis to a lot of roation in left and right direction during rotation giving them a short life, very regular regreasing required!.

Best is a double carden, Bite the bullet and do it right

Bazzle

cool im learing more and more from this forum im going to extend the lowers tomomrrow and see how i go either way i needed to to fit some larger tyres 35 inch mtzs will do just splended i reckon

Where or from what do u get a double carden joint from?

i rang a guy around home from gibsons drive line or someting like that and he quoted me 770 to make one he is in the newcastle area

as for fiwing my problem i extended my lowers by 30 mm like bad mav said to and also dropped my gearbox crossmember 20 mm and there is no vibration up to 70kph and thats as fast as i decided to drive

so i have been driving my car to and from work not over 60 kph until i could get a double cardonal shaft which arived today so i put it in and the car was shaking to shit again can anyone tell me if its because i only lengthend the lower control arms im thinkin i shuld lengthen the tops to suite

If you're going to run a double cardan then you need to point the pinion at the transfer so all diffence in angle is at the double cardan joint.

If you are going to run a normal shaft with a uni at each end then you need to have both flanges parallell to each other so the angle change is the same at each end.

Nelso wrote:5 inches is a lot on a shorty without a double carden joint. Some have managed to adjust their arms enough to get the vibrations to an acceptable level but plenty of others haven't.

You have a few options:
1 Fit a double carden joint at the transfer end of your driveshaft and rotate your rear diff so the universal joint at the pinion is running 0 degrees angle.
2 Fit a high pinion rear diff (combination of a front and rear centre)
3 Lower the gearbox crossmember and rotate the diff (fitting different length control arms) so both universal joints are running at the same angle.

I've run a double carden joint as a 7 inch lift and now a 4 inch lift for the past 8 years in mine with no problems at all but plenty of others have solved the issues using the other methods too. HTH

See points 1 or 3. You can't do both.

yeah cool i bought a double carden shaft so i will have to angle the diff back up again

Oldhenry wrote:yeah cool i bought a double carden shaft so i will have to angle the diff back up again

I had a double carden shaft and got rid off it because it was going to cost way to much to get the pinion angle correct. All the coil mounts, shock mounts, etc.. needed to be cut off and rewelded on once the diff had been rotated, plus the oil filling hole needs to be moved up.
I went a high pinion rear instead its heaps cheaper and uses stock parts.

yeah im going to take it out im finding all those problems and nothing is betterevery body told me to run it so i bought on and it definatly didnt work made things worse

Oldhenry wrote:yeah im going to take it out im finding all those problems and nothing is betterevery body told me to run it so i bought on and it definatly didnt work made things worse

Not everybody was telling you to get double Cardin joints. Seeing you did you have to make sure you get the right ones or you might find them binding up before your normal joints do. Plus all the mods you have to do
Get upper adjustable arms and high pinion

If all else fails get some ultra flexy coils from us in a lower lift and enjoy more flex then your current coils