Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey fellas i'm after a bit of advice.

it seems my car is developing a ticking in it. faster during acceleration. but constant at idle. it doesn't seem to be having any interference with the running of the motor but the power has been reduced quite alot. hills i once got up easily have now gotten very difficult.

i have a 3L engine with an after market turbo kit. i was thinking of my options because the engine has now done 320 thousand and i think she is on her last legs as it is. and now the sound assures me its time for some work. i ask of you this what is the best alternative
1/ rebuild the engine i have to standard
2/rebuild the engine i have upgraded to take more boost
3/ buy reconditioned engine
4/or just fix the ticking and ignore her old age

any advice would greatly be appreciated. i do like to do the work to the car myself but i realise this sort of thing really needs a pro. so i will be handin her over to a mech. anyone know of a good one near caboolture qld.

thanx all lumberjack

I would think you will need to accurately diagnose the "ticking" before guessing at the best way to fix it.

Sounds like you have an exhaust leak at the manifold somewhere, should be a fairly straight forward fix. Otherwise get a low km second hand 5L engine, they pretty much go straight in.

How long since the last service?
What's the air/fuel filters like?
When were the injectors last serviced?
What's the fuel economy like?
Has it got alot of blow by?

Check your blow-by by taking the oil filler cap off while it's running and check for excessive vapour coming out.
If you are able to, check the compression too.

It may not be as bad as you think, it may only need a really thorough service and even an engine flush.
Lifter noise can be fixed by simple adjustment of the tappets (if the 3Ls have adjustables?).
Made a big difference in my 2H.

Doing the 3l in my Lux now. Got a reco short motor for $2400 with flywheel regrind, gasket kit, and crank timing gear [ i broke mine]
It's a big job to do [ for me anyway] They do a long engine for around $3200 inc timing belt and cleaned oil coler ect. I forund them on Tradingpost... Vigor engineering. Anyway seems good for the price.

A drive in drive out job could reach around 7k .

interested in the 5L option as i was told the 5L doesnt agree with the 3L transer case?

You might want to have a chat to someone who's not on drugs

so it would be possible to drop a 5L turbo into my 3L one day?!

Yes, same block, mounts, etc. so gearbox bolting up is no problem.
Surf turbo gear also bolts up, just like the 3L but is a tad small for the 5L.

Like most stuff, if you abuse it ... it breaks so a gearbox upgrade may be on the cards but transfer is usually fine.
The guys I have heard of breaking transfer input shafts have decent hp, reduction gears & big rubber (37's+) and driving hard, so shouldn't be an issue.

thanks for the info dougster
and sorry about takin over your thread lumberjack haha

chunks wrote:Sounds like you have an exhaust leak at the manifold somewhere, should be a fairly straight forward fix. Otherwise get a low km second hand 5L engine, they pretty much go straight in.

x2

ok so got sick of the noise and i am getting the engine checked out. compression test came back bad in one cylinder 60 psi drop. and pcv pipe has a lot of smoke coming out. mech reckons its a crank problem, or the turbo is running oil back into the bad cyl and floodin it out, too early too tell, price wise so far if i have to rebuild i'm just buying a reco, cause its hell cheap. found a couple for $3150 which is better then the 5k i've been told it'll cost me for rebuild, and thats with discounted rebuild kit and no crank.

but thanx for all the advice and keep it coming. has anyone had to do a rebuild? of course dumb question.... what hiccups did ya find if ya did?

4runnin_lumber_jack wrote: but thanx for all the advice and keep it coming. has anyone had to do a rebuild? of course dumb question.... what hiccups did ya find if ya did?

It's like any engine really. If you rebuild it because of a problem then you're more likely to have issues with unusable cranks and rods and other parts. Having to buy those parts is a major expense on top of the usual rebuild bits, seals and bearings.

Unless you strip the engine and measure everything your self, there's not much point having a mechanic do it, when there is only the possibility of higher cost.

Reco or secondhand is always the cheapest and easiest, so that's what the majority do.

The 3l specifically though isn't the strongest motor for turboing. That's why engine conversions are so popular.

Maybe have the tuning looked at and consider a boost compensator on your new engine.

oldmate wrote:The 3l specifically though isn't the strongest motor for turboing. That's why engine conversions are so popular.

Is that right cause my engine went 320k with the turbo so i thought it went ok. i'm not sure how much boost it was pushing but it doesn't matter now cause my turbo needs a rebuild too, its lost some fins and the shaft is loose, mech says its a matter of age, not my stupid driving.


oh so i found out that the engine sucked in some muddy water and bent the conrod on cylinder 3, apparently its possible i cracked the crankcase too, yay,

well i've lined up a reco with a brand new head on for $3500. trying to get a warranty out of the guy. but anyhow is that price good? i thought so.