Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Tabrocky gave me great info about a mod that allows you to have full boost on a TD in 1st gear. I have been scoring over my measages and posts but can't find the info that I need.

This all said and done I transplanted the TD into my tray and what a difference, especially in the higher gears.

Basically a straight transplant that started first attempt. I have 1 vacume?/ breather? hose left over that I have no idea what it does, I'll post a pik later in the week and hopefully you guys can shed some light on it.

Has anyone have updated pics on the fuel pump mod, the one on the link will not display pic's for me now, am I doing something wrong.

cheers all

what engine code is your motor mate ?
cheers brenton

Shambles,

I think your refering to the Power Control Valve which is small round black plastic unit which is clipped onto a small bracket off the inlet manifold. It will have three hoses connecting to it. One from the inlet manifold at the point where the fuel pump compensator is connected, another to the inlet of the turbo charger and the other is a small vacuum hose which connects to a solenoid mounted on the inner guard behind the air cleaner.

The valve works by bypassing the boost pressure, presented to the fuel pump compensator, back to the turbo inlet. Near full boost is still achieved in first gear, but the bypass valve prevents the fuel compensator seeing this boost pressure when active (first gear), thus not fueling the motor up to match the boost pressure and hence reducing the power output. I think Daihatsu intended it to provide a smoother driving experience and reduce the on-boost surge. Not much good though for those of us who use them off-road and have to deal with the average low range gearing.

In your case the best option given you've done a transplant is to remove the bypass valve completely. I did this to mine by replacing the original take off point from the inlet manifold with a standard brass connector threaded one end, hose barb the other end. The barb end then connects to the existing hose to the fuel pump compensator. The other hole to block is the one at the turbo inlet piece. You can block this anyway you like. Just make sure dust can't leak in and damage the engine.
The only other hose will be the vacuum control hose which connects to the solenoid. Given you have done the transplant you will not need to worry about this as the N/A version won't have the solenoid which you would otherwise need to take care of.

Out of interest, if that one hose you had left after the transplant is in fact the vacuum control hose for the bypass valve, you will already be getting full boost/fuel in all gears as when this hose is disconnected it effectively disables the bypass valve anyway.
You may just want to remove the vacuum hose from the bypass valve and leave it in situ. Saves having to block up pipes.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Thank you very much for this info, i think even I will be able to follow it

It doesn't feel like it has full boost compared to accelleration in 3rd 4th 5th. I will look into it tommorrow as I have a day off.
It has a blocked injector, that doesnt help either

thanks agan, sorry brenton of my lask of haste? with the engine code, shift work sucks.

thanks again guys

It cost me $60/piece to get new nozzles and the injectors pop tuned. Don't be a tightass. It will save you money in fuel long term (Ie will probably pay itself off after a few decent off roading weekends...)

I was going to do it but I don't drive it often as I walk to work. I'm guessing that was $60 per nozzle. I have seen a set of 4 brand new for $129 on ebay. ($12 postage erk) Is this a fair price??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Daihatsu-Rocky-T ... 255c8a2d30" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I usually get parts at trade price at Bursons and will check their price on Thursday and put them in, and swivel kit, etc etc

Cam belt gets done on Thursday ,by a mate who is mechanic. after reading the manual there seems too many things to wreck with my novice skills.

That was nozzles in and shimmed/whatevertheydotomakethempopattherightpressure.

Was happy to pay $240 so didn't ask what was the labour component...

thanks, just read in the manual you need a special tool to measure the pressure and shim the nozzle accordenly to get the same injector pressue on each,. now just have to tell the wife

Shambles wrote:thanks, just read in the manual you need a special tool to measure the pressure and shim the nozzle accordenly to get the same injector pressue on each,. now just have to tell the wife

You can build one with an old bottle jack and some bits and bobs. That would probably the cheapest way if you wanted to DIY

There is a guy who did one for his Mercedes and wrote it up on the net.