Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi guys,this has probably been asked but cant find it,i have an extra cab 60 series ute,its all engineered,for ute chop,v8,sports seats ect,but i have to get the paperwork from the ute chop folk,whom want to see the ute again,i guess to make sure the numbers match ect,it was still registered as a wagon through vic roads though,so ill have to get it back to them and get the paperwork,which will set me back 150 bucks which is no biggy

anyways my dilemma is that i dont have the original tray for it,just the framework on chassis that a tray bolts up to,i have another tray to put on,but im not sure about how the frames been attatched,and if it was engineered that way as its just welded straight onto the top of the chassis rails,the welds on both sides behind the cab had let go,where as the rears are fine,i bought this car this way and my question is should it be welded to the chassis rails,it was my understanding that was a no no

any advice greatly appreciated

I would be making up a mount and welding that to the chassis and boltong the tray to the mount with rubber between the mount and the tray.

yeah thats what i was thinking of doing,or even bolting the old body mounts back on,have a coup-le of spares 60s to take them off,otherwise i could just use whats on there now and make a plate to go around chassis so i can bolt it up that way,as i have raised gas tanks as the tray sits pretty high,some thinking to do still,thanks for your idea though

im a body builder by trade....
rubber mounts are never used........underneath on steel trays......
the trays are made and bolted to the chassis brackets comming off the chassis rail.....

only ever seen rubber mounts used between ute tubs......and the chassis mounts....
when they came in to have tray built.......the rubber is removed...
the cab has rubber mounts to minimise noise....and have some give....
a tray will flex no matter how strong you build it......
especially truck trays!!

id bolt the old mounts back on......with 8.8 BOLTS.....HI TENSILE....
and use high tensile bolts....when mounting tray to chassis mounts....

remember welding weakens steel to a certain extent......even though the weld metal itself is better than the steel your welding it too.....
heat has affect.....localised stress.......fatigue....
a chassis especialy on a 4wd.......doesnt need any more stress than what we do to it....in the off road world...
you can weld it.....but dont go bananas....and massive welds......in one area....
you will only cause fatigue in these areas....

bolting it is the way to go.....
weld only as last resort....

CRUZAAMAD wrote:im a body builder by trade....
rubber mounts are never used........underneath on steel trays......
the trays are made and bolted to the chassis brackets comming off the chassis rail.....

only ever seen rubber mounts used between ute tubs......and the chassis mounts....
when they came in to have tray built.......the rubber is removed...
the cab has rubber mounts to minimise noise....and have some give....
a tray will flex no matter how strong you build it......
especially truck trays!!

The engineer I used when I done my rangey chop wanted me to if possible use the original body mounts to bolt the tray to. So the chassis would flex mostly as designed.

RichardC I would talk to the people doing the approval first before you waste any time/money/effort building something that could be awesome but isn't what they want. That way you'll get it right first time around.

If at all possible use tray brackets from a factory built vehicle. These brackets are already ADR approved so all you need is a ticketed welder to have them attached to satisfy any engineering requirements.
Also I have never heard of having to rubber mount a tray before either. Maybe aluminium tray but not sure on that.



brooksy

by rubber mount thats just between steel mount and tray isnt it,like a body mount,thats how my old 45s tray was set up.

My 60 is engineered for the ute chop,just hasnt been registered as a ute with vic roads,i spoke to the engineer,but to get the paper work have to pay 150 bucks and bring truck in to check vin numbers ect,i guess ill get in touch with them and see if it is how they signed off on it,as im the 3rd owner since it was engineered