Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Howdy All.
As I'm routing a pnumatic line up front for my remote freespool and having a dizzy that 'absorbs' water very easily, i thought about tapping a airline into it and using a regulator off a compressor to reduce the pressure. The air excaping should prevent the water entering, yes?

And while I'm at it, I'd thought I'd do the same into the top of my winch motor and top of my clutch housing. The idea is to have a steady flow of air in the top keeping it positively pressurised and have a small drain out the bottom.

I've heared about this being done, but does it work?
Also, anyone found a cheap(but good) supplier of 12V valves and fittings?
Also, also, I've been looking for a pressure gauge with electric sender.

I have thought about the same thing for my winch motor. Why not use a 12v air horn compressor, with a switch and just turn it on whenever you enter water.

BundyRumandCoke wrote:I have thought about the same thing for my winch motor. Why not use a 12v air horn compressor, with a switch and just turn it on whenever you enter water.

What sort of flow/pressure/power do you get from a typical 12V horn compressor?

You won't need high pressure - 2 psi will protect a metre under water. Flow is a function of how well sealed anything is.

If you're simply driving through, the power consumption of your "waterproofing" compressor won't be significant.

If you stall with your winch underwater you'll need to run your compressor while you're rigging your recovery - and you'll be using power that you might otherwise need for winching.

The odds of this being a problem are pretty low, but Murphy is really a bastard to me.

I do know that people do have their Dizzys Pressurized, i was told a LiLo pump was an exelent match, as it has high flow but low pressue, don't know about others but a Patrol Dizzy cap can only take 3-4pounds

Just buy a lj50 suzuki as they had them all ready,but i think they worked on vacuum not pressurization.

boner59 wrote:Just buy a lj50 suzuki as they had them all ready,but i think they worked on vacuum not pressurization.

thehanko wrote:

boner59 wrote:Just buy a lj50 suzuki as they had them all ready,but i think they worked on vacuum not pressurization.

What I should have said, my 1977 lj50 had one.yes i'm that old

The " " was regarding the vacum part..... how is it supposed to work with vacum? That would suck water in, through every possible crack/gap etc.

A.J. wrote:The " " was regarding the vacum part..... how is it supposed to work with vacum? That would suck water in, through every possible crack/gap etc.

Ok my bad.

If you stall with your winch underwater you'll need to run your compressor while you're rigging your recovery - and you'll be using power that you might otherwise need for winching.

Yeah, but a fifteen litre airtank at 100psi releasing a slow leak into the winch body should take quite some time.

I've also thought about using propane gas (BBQ) regulators. They regulate from a much higher pressure than 100psi and only give out 1-2psi, might be the go. Nice slow hsssssss, I don't want to flick the switch and lauch my dizzy cap into orbit.

But how about the clutch? soak that and its game over.

BTW vacuum is bad in this application.

Zookrider wrote:Howdy All.
As I'm routing a pnumatic line up front for my remote freespool and having a dizzy that 'absorbs' water very easily, i thought about tapping a airline into it and using a regulator off a compressor to reduce the pressure. The air excaping should prevent the water entering, yes?

And while I'm at it, I'd thought I'd do the same into the top of my winch motor and top of my clutch housing. The idea is to have a steady flow of air in the top keeping it positively pressurised and have a small drain out the bottom.

I've heared about this being done, but does it work?
Also, anyone found a cheap(but good) supplier of 12V valves and fittings?
Also, also, I've been looking for a pressure gauge with electric sender.

A few points, firstly make sure the air you are pumping into the dizzy is dry, a constant flow of moist air is going to give your ignition "brain damage" before it even gets to the river.
Have a look at a belt driven smog pump they pump a lot of air and can run continuously.
and if you are doing the smog pump, run a line into your bell housing
Peter.

boner59 wrote:

A.J. wrote:The " " was regarding the vacum part..... how is it supposed to work with vacum? That would suck water in, through every possible crack/gap etc.

Ok my bad.

The Old LJ80 (probably modern for some amongst us ) had the same deal and it had two hoses ( A suction and a breather). From memory the breather was routed high up under the bonnet somewhere and the other I cant remember (air filter above carby throat for mild vacuum?) The Nippondenso distributors were sealed quite well around the base and this factory setup worked surprisingly well. It used about 5mm ID rubber tube and the fittings were moulded into the cap itself.
In any case the bugger was so light it couldnt sink down far enough to get the motor wet!!

I think there is a thread in the either Nissan or Toyota bible regarding waterproofing disributors using compressed air - I read something in there a long time ago

A few points, firstly make sure the air you are pumping into the dizzy is dry, a constant flow of moist air is going to give your ignition "brain damage" before it even gets to the river.
Have a look at a belt driven smog pump they pump a lot of air and can run continuously.
and if you are doing the smog pump, run a line into your bell housing
Peter.

DRY AIR: Big thanks to smart Peter That is important. I was wanting to use my existing air system but that is chock full of condensate. The smog pump is a good idea, but a 1.3lt engine struggles as it is, and I don't think it's necasary to run all the time. Just bog holes and river crossings.

Grab yourself a compressor that comes with the musical air horns, lob it in your glovebox (theoretically a dry place). These are fairly high volume and low pressure.

I like the musical airhorn compressor idea!!!!!!

with the airline tapped into the dizzy cap... would you need a release hole or will the air escape from the base of the cap???

KERMIE_308 wrote:I like the musical airhorn compressor idea!!!!!!

with the airline tapped into the dizzy cap... would you need a release hole or will the air escape from the base of the cap???

Most jap distributors I have seen, have a small drain hole in the metal body underneath. So this wont be an issue.

Another old trick I that used to be around in the Mini days (coz the distributor was right at the front of the grille and got wet with the slightest amount of rain) was to get a rubber glove, cut the tops off the fingers ( so the leads could fit through) and the hand section fitted over the cap & body. Cable tie around each opening to seal it all up, and Bob was your Uncle.

Not sure how this works with a V8 or a Six, unless you got a mutant pair of gloves!

I think my work is done here

Clanky wrote: I think there is a thread in the either Nissan or Toyota bible regarding waterproofing disributors using compressed air - I read something in there a long time ago

Not compressed air, but pumped air.
The old 12V air mattress inflator does the job. low pressure, high volume.

Hi we use this in our rigs that we race at Loveday (deep muddy water) , most gusy run the 12v tyre air comp but should you have a water trap in the line as it can get water from humidity, but it works great ,highly recomended