Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Has anyone converted Gq front to triangulated four link? If so could you please post some info and pictures. Much appreciated. Tried searching. Epic fail. Thanks all.

Are you running a steering box or full hydro?

You must have a pan hard rod or it won't turn. It's been tried.

PGS 4WD wrote:You must have a pan hard rod or it won't turn. It's been tried.

If you have the time, money and patience i reckon you can get it to work. I had mine working up to about 60-70k's but once the wobble started it was unbearable. I think if i had played around with the castor and steering angles more i could have got it to work but i lost motivation and just went full hydro

zookimal wrote:Are you running a steering box or full hydro?

To be honest, I hadn't really thought about steering. I'm mainly just looking for avenues to do away with my stupid 3rds arms and get better front end flex. Figured a good link system would be the go. I'm open to ideas though. Still needs to be road registered and engineered so hydro probs out the question.

5 link ?

X-link?

anybody done a 3 link with panhard from end. similar to most heeps and things like that.
im tossing it up but dont want it to float to much

i have just done a 3 link front end on mine. i made drop boxes for the lower arms and used the rear factory mounts on the diff. the upper has it's mount on top of the pumpkin with the chassis mount on the inside of the rail above the driveshaft (tight fit!). i used rear control arm bushes on the front of the control arms with rose joints at the back. with a 4inch spring lift i lifted the front left off the ground 850mm before the opposite tyre lifted off the ground, i have now changed to fox shox and will be trying them out this weeken at scenic rim. i don't know how you would go with rego, i didn't bother as mine doesn't see the road.

ezzman wrote:i have just done a 3 link front end on mine. i made drop boxes for the lower arms and used the rear factory mounts on the diff. the upper has it's mount on top of the pumpkin with the chassis mount on the inside of the rail above the driveshaft (tight fit!). i used rear control arm bushes on the front of the control arms with rose joints at the back. with a 4inch spring lift i lifted the front left off the ground 850mm before the opposite tyre lifted off the ground, i have now changed to fox shox and will be trying them out this weeken at scenic rim. i don't know how you would go with rego, i didn't bother as mine doesn't see the road.

ah see mine is daily driven so driveability is an issue. hence i may never actually do it to this car but its something ive thought about quite a bit, same as a triangulated 4 link rear.
might have to have a play round on another chassis i have and see what i can come up with.
another thing is the life of a rose joint. they chop out real easy specially with the mud and stuff of offroading.
have you ever driven yours at speed since the upgrade.

no speed work yet as haven't put the steering stabilser back on and with the 42's she gets a bit wobbly over 50.

PGS 4WD wrote:You must have a pan hard rod or it won't turn. It's been tried.

If you have a triangulated 4 link you would not need a panard. So why won't it work ? Unless you are using the orginal steering set up. That will still work with a load of bump steer

Why not 3link + panhard?

what about superior engineering super flex front arms http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=6506" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Had 3rds front arms on mine hated them almost standard flex, imo they have not been well thought out or designd at all. now running superiour super flex with 4inch sus and 5 inch shock and getting massive amounts of flex. great on road manners no wobbels great under hard breaking. im not running sway bars so its a little bit rolly around corners but ya get that. Realy think about getting them arms out before they take half your chassie out with them.

Heres my thinking if anyones interested.
3rds/bbm arms DONT allow for complete up and down movement of the diff through the radius of the panhard the solid mount to the chassie means thats were the movment comes from (not good). futher more in flex so 1 wheel up one down the diff wants to roll forward on the dropped wheel and backwards on the raised wheel with the nissan arm set up and the arms do not allow that any more than standard arms with drop boxes.

I have a 5link in the front and a double triangultaed in the rear
4-5" flexy coils front and rear you can lift front tyre 1200mm off the ground befor the rear tyre lift and lift the rear 1210mm before the front tyre lifts still good on road if you go down this parth get a good set of shocks as they will make all the difference between your fourby being good on road or a boat mine has been both new shockers made a heap of differance.

steve, 5-link kit or custom setup? If it's a kit, was it bolt on (wizard) or weld? A while ago I've looked into it but the bolt on kits didn't seem good enough as the length of the arms is compromised by having to use available chassis mounting points.

Do you have any pics of your setup?

Hi Aj

I built the 5 link myself but made is as a bolt on unit. yes i agree with your arm lenght worries with the flex i get now the arm need to be longer but do work. I have been looking in to how to upgrade my front end to make arms longer just haven't got to it yet I will post some pics tommorow.

Thanks for the pics steve, is there any chance you can post up some larger ones?

Or you can email me some if you want, It'd give me some ideas!

will get some better pics tomorrow see if this pic works

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/516 ... 043c_m.jpg how the hell do you get the photos to show up bigger have tried reducing file size but didn't help much as you can see