Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have purchased and EFS 3 inch lift kit for an absolute steal and want to fit 33 inch BFG KM2's, i have been told i need to move the front diff forward 35mm, is it as easy as re drilling the spring purchase? what other parts will i need ie do i need anyfront shaft spacers or aything like that

all advise would be great as to fitting 33s with 60 series cruiser wheelscon without having rubbing issues

I have these springs in my lux, the drivers side already has a hole which needs to be drilled out bigger to the size of the centre bolt in the springs. And passenger side needs to be marked out the same and drilled... Thats all you need apart from right size drill bit.

But they will still rub on up travel in inner guard. But doesn't hurt anything.

You will need to get front shaft lengthened, if you have no lift and are doing both lift and move forward then a 25mm spacer won't be enough. Plus they make the angle of the unis worse and will cause a vibration.

Brad

any idea where to get the shaft made longer on the central coast NSW, the EFS kit comes with wedges to tilt the diff i suppose but i dont know if thats enough if i move the diff forward. any other advise for fitting 33s to my truck

Raven theres a diff/gearbox place on Bon Mace Cl at Tumbi, if you head towards Mingara, turn left at th roundabout outside Mingara, take the 2nd left, then they on the left towards the end.
Theyve done unis for me fairly cheaply, and should be able to help.

Wont you also need to move the front crossmemberfront spring hangers forward??

the 3 inch EFS kit is a simple bolt in product but i really want to fit 33s without having rubbing issues i dont think you have to move the hangers forward

The other thing I forgot is you will need a adjustable torque rod, be careful but some aren't made short enough for this.

And definately don't need to touch front hangers, what you are doing is moving the diff forward on the springs.

But they will still rub, RUF conversion is the one which will clear them... And 35's

I'm speaking from experience. I have the same springs and have the diff moved forward 35mm

Brad

how much "massaging" will have to be done to the innner gaurd? does it only hit on the rear?

Just rubs on plastics on back of inner guard.

Just let it rub, does not hurt the tyres IMOP.

Would not have to do much reshaping if u wanted to but.

ive picked up a pair of 4.8 diffs so im goign to put a 2 inch body lift in and aim for 35s, will my dropped drag link that is an option with the EFS 75 mm kit going to be ok?

Bodylift doesn't mean you have to extend torque rod.
Just buy an adjustable torque rod.
You eventually have to ditch it due to RUF or trailgear kits because they limit flex, had people rip the torque rod mount from the chassis with RUF.
Doesnt have to be EFS, can buy from superior and snake, depending on what you want to pay.
I just sold my Snake one to a guy for a case.
Cheers
Dan

i already have an adjustable torque rod fitted

oh sorry dude, complete mind blank.
Ahh yeah the adjustable drag link should do fine.
But will still limit the flex and may break J arms.

Yeh the adjustable drag link should be fine, I ordered my efs/rancho kit (4" kit) through superior Eng, and told them I would move the diff forward 35mm and they sent the drag link and torque rod to suit.

I did break 1 torque rod and crack the chassy where the rod is welded.

I also broke a j arm once as said, and that was with 33's. 35's will put alot of pressure on the j arm in high traction tracks with the tyres deflated.

Another problem you will get (if your shocks are long enough) when the drivers side tyre articulates down the shock extends/ pivots in and will hit the j arm putting a crease in the casing or bend it slightly.

I had to go highsteer to fix these properly.

And yeh you'll fit 35's with what you said but I have just the 4" lift and run 35's and just let them rub on the inner plastic... Not that bad but It will be too tall with a extra 2" IMOP, I struggle with side angles on mine sometimes

Brad

Do you need an adjustable draglink to move the diff forward 25mm or so?
I assume it will make the steering wheel slightly out of alignment.
Want the 33" tyres on my 85 xtra cab to clear when i pull out the 2" body lift.
Can you make a torque rod with a slip and twist style set up?

Matt

ok since im new to this all that bit of info has scared me off a bit especially with a bub on the way and bills to pay, so ill go with the 33s, 4.8 ratios, 2 inch body lift and look for a front locker to suit the truck and leave it at that, im no expert off roader so theres no point pretending i am with a truck im out of my depth with. thanks for all the advise guys

Sorry if I have made it sound worse then it is but was just letting you know some of the things I have found with doing that lift.

33's are not too harsh on the steering components as 35's, looking back on it the 4" kit was the best thing I have spent money on, but just got to keep an eye on torque rod and the drivers shock. Keep in mind I still drive around now with highsteer with the same shock with the ding in it... Still works fine.

You will get heaps more flex and a better ride with the suspension lift, having the extra wheel travel is more beneficial then having bigger tyres. More flex = more traction and generally drive further. Body lift won't give you that... Only the height.

Brad

thanks for your advise brad, that and soem advice privatly from ERASER has led me to sticking with moving my diff forward and 33s with a lokka to come, just havign trouble finding info on a lokka to fit a 4.8 front diff form an 83 deisel hilux

Hey mate I'm Not too far from you if you wanted I could show you how to put it all in and make it fit without rubbing if you bought it over.

cheers for the offer mate, its on stands in pieces in the garage at the moment, feel free to shoot me a pm and we can arrange a look see

All solid axle hilux lockers are the same front/ rear. The only exception is there is a 4cyl model and a 6cyl one (V6 one has bigger carrier bearings)

Does not matter between the ratios when fitting the lockers.

I wouldnt put only a front locker in, the cvs won't last long because all the weight/ traction will be put through them and you will break them after a while.

Basically most of the time the front wheels will be on the ground because of the front flexing better, but as soon as one wheel loses traction on the rear or lifts you then have no drive from rear.
Think of when this happens and you need to turn...crack.

I have had all combinations but Now I run lockers front and rear, if I have a problem with the rear I'll disconnect the front and run no lockers rather then just a front.

The only time I started to break cvs was running a front locker only (LSD rear won't help)

Brad