Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all, with the weather warming up it's time to flush the cooling system so everything is happy, now I've decidedto replace the thermostat but the parts place has an option of standard or high flow, has anybody used the high flow version, if so what did you find, also anyone have pros and cons of each?
I do alot of towing so if that makes a difference I would love to know

Thanks
Shawn

interested also if anyone has any info.
moving back to townsville feb nextg year so i'll have to check also!!

I would also be keen to hear as with the recent hot weather and lots of towing im getting a little hot on larger hills.

I have heard that faster flow can actually reduce colling efficiency - I know thats counter intuitive.

if you decide to try one please post your observations.

That's the main reason I'm lookin to see if anyone else has used it, I know it could do more harm than good and I don't wanna risk it cause the next drive will be towing the comp truck to orange, so all help appreciated

id be trying it, and taking the old one with you, especially if you tend to struggle with heat?

whos selling the highflow ones?

i always struggle with my GQ, not badly, but just having to drop speeds from 120/130 in the NT back to 100 or so to keep the needle around half, usually sits about 1/3

its been a while and i just remembered about this thread,

i ended up picking oneup the other day, i got it from Burson's, they retail for $45,

not i managed to get it for $30, its a Tridon branded thermostat,

now, upon looking at the part number is: TT2028-170----Thermostat (High Flow)-----1/10/2001---03/2003---High Flow version of TT228-170, allows approximately 30% more coolant flow.

now this part number also relates to certain pulsars and silvias, so it may be a standard stocked part for nissan.

I have not fitted it yet, as i have been flat out, and its not just a thermostat with extra holes drilled, it actually has a slightly larger opening, only a couple of mm thou

ozy1 wrote:its been a while and i just remembered about this thread,

i ended up picking oneup the other day, i got it from Burson's, they retail for $45,

not i managed to get it for $30, its a Tridon branded thermostat,

now, upon looking at the part number is: TT2028-170----Thermostat (High Flow)-----1/10/2001---03/2003---High Flow version of TT228-170, allows approximately 30% more coolant flow.

now this part number also relates to certain pulsars and silvias, so it may be a standard stocked part for nissan.

I have not fitted it yet, as i have been flat out, and its not just a thermostat with extra holes drilled, it actually has a slightly larger opening, only a couple of mm thou

hurry up

High flow on left. Partially open cold.






I am pretty sure mine had a high flow in it, but may have been dead cause it was about 5mm open when cold. Not sure if its supposed to be like that.
Car would cruise around just above cold most of the time and get warm during extended periods of boost on the freeways etc . Actually gave a bit more of a buffer zone before it got too warm...
Still gets warm when pushed but at the moment I am going with the "its ok so long as its not in the hot zone" attitude.

blackmav wrote:High flow on left. Partially open cold.






I am pretty sure mine had a high flow in it, but may have been dead cause it was about 5mm open when cold. Not sure if its supposed to be like that.
Car would cruise around just above cold most of the time and get warm during extended periods of boost on the freeways etc . Actually gave a bit more of a buffer zone before it got too warm...
Still gets warm when pushed but at the moment I am going with the "its ok so long as its not in the hot zone" attitude.

so you replaced a dud high flow with a std flow one? but didnt notice much difference as far as top end heat?

stick with a standard, if the water passes too quickly through the radiator it will not cool quick enough. A high flow one will help it get to temperature quicker though.

not necessarily true about cooling being lost by higher flow.

and what do you mean a highflow will get it to temp quicker?

love ke70 wrote:not necessarily true about cooling being lost by higher flow.

and what do you mean a highflow will get it to temp quicker?

sorry i meant a standard will get it to temp quicker (i confused myself) as it will hold the water in the motor longer, all my experiences with sticking thermostats and people who put highflow ones in have noticed increased in operating temperature. This being rb30s

increases across the board or higher running temp but a more stable top end?

it doesnt hurt if they ran hotter, but are then more stable at a higher temp, its really the optimal scenario.

but if your finding they just get hotter across the board thats no good.

thehanko wrote:

blackmav wrote:High flow on left. Partially open cold.


I am pretty sure mine had a high flow in it, but may have been dead cause it was about 5mm open when cold. Not sure if its supposed to be like that.
Car would cruise around just above cold most of the time and get warm during extended periods of boost on the freeways etc . Actually gave a bit more of a buffer zone before it got too warm...
Still gets warm when pushed but at the moment I am going with the "its ok so long as its not in the hot zone" attitude.

so you replaced a dud high flow with a std flow one? but didnt notice much difference as far as top end heat?

Well no, but then I have just recoed my fan clutch and that seems to have helped a fair bit. It still moves around alot within the hot and cold marks but not nearly kissing the hot.
Up to 3 quarters but thats on long pulls on boost.

Mine has been kissing the H mark for ages now, i have to allow an extra 20 min to drive to work on night shift because of the hot temps in the arvo.
Cant drive at over 90kmh or it will go over 3/4 but havent boiled it yet thank god.

Thermostat is fine, clutch fan could do with replacing but instead i have just decided to get a replacement aluminium one from Aussie Desert Coolers, they just quoted me $750 for a bolt in job thats supposed to be 40% more efficient.
PWR Radiators quoted me $1194 for basically the same thing.

I put a new aussie desert cooler radiator in my 4.2td gu and the thing still over heats. I have replaced the thermostat and put in a new clutch fan as well. The aussie desert coolers dont have any provisions to bolt the fan shroud back on. The bloke over there reckons that you dont need it, but i managed rivot and cable tie the old one back in.

ruffgu wrote:I put a new aussie desert cooler radiator in my 4.2td gu and the thing still over heats. I have replaced the thermostat and put in a new clutch fan as well. The aussie desert coolers dont have any provisions to bolt the fan shroud back on. The bloke over there reckons that you dont need it, but i managed rivot and cable tie the old one back in.

Oh dear so what is your next plan of attack? I was going to replace the clutch fan too but i figured the radiator would be the better 1st option, then do the fan as it is working fine.

Not sure yet. It might have something to do with the front mount cooler, high mount and driving lights as well. Might try and fit a couple ot thermos in between the radiator and the cooler?!
But I thought the new radiator might have compensated for this.

Yeah i have Front mount too. Thinking of changing to a top mount.

I have also gone with a PWR radiator and some EL falcon thermos.
I also have a front mount intercooler.
Doesn't really overheat but runs very warm like 210 degF.
Just out of curiosity do you guys still have the rubber on the inner guards to chassis? Also do you still have the plastic guard that sits under the radiator and bolts to the chassis?
I took mine off years ago. But I am about to put them back on to see if it changes anything.
I'm also going to have a really good look at the thermostat housing to see if the bypass passage seat is okay. I suspect it may be leaking at higher revs.

Marty

I still have the rubber inside the guards, keeps mud and crap out a bit better.
Nothing under the rad, but im in the process of making up an aluminium checkerplate guard bolted to the bottom of the bullbar running back to the chassis to protect the rad and so not as much mud splashes up to the dyneema rope on my winch.

i've found that changing my rad cap also makes a difference for the better.

I have changed my radiator cap when i put in the new radiator.
I still run the rubber on the inner guards, but pissed ther plastic shield off at the bottom. I even changed bars from a custom Aus4wd to a custom F.A.T. bar that alllows more air flow into the front.
But as soon as you put it under load the thing starts to heat up.