Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've been chasing a problem for a couple of months on the 45. First, it just wouldn't start. Mobile Auto Leckie (MAL) got it started with a different coil and we took it up. They replaced the alternator, coil and she seemed fine, drove for a few days then parked it for a week. Wouldn't start. Got MAL back and ge couldn't get it going after 5 hours. We replaced the distributor as he stripped the thread on the screw that holds the points in place. Replaced the points, leads, plugs, used the newer (60 series) distributor and rotor with the old cap; and another new coil. She seemed to be fine again. Drove for the weekend. By the end of the first day she started running on! First she wont start now she wouldn't stop. I had tp stall it. Next morning, wouldn't start. Reset points and got timing right, replaced coil. Started and drove fine. Got mechanic to reset points and timing and she ran sweet. Started this morning, no dramas. Moved it into the driveway to do some cleaning from last weekend's trip and now she wont start AGAIN. Replaced coil. Reset points. Removed all accessories from terminals. Still wont fire. Can't seem to get spark from the coil? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the novel.

Has it been the same set of points the whole time? Could be the condenser???

New points, dissy, leads, etc. Thinking it could be the condenser also, replacing that today (fingers crossed)

dodgy ballast resistor maby?

pcman wrote:dodgy ballast resistor maby?

Ballast resistor is shorted out of circuit to start the engine (ie starter motor energised) It would kick over but not run if the resistor was U/S.

I would be looking at the voltage to the coil under prestart (Ign on, starter not energised - should see ~7-8V) and under starting conditions (carefully! It will give you a nice kick if the coil is working properly, should be about 12V, ie. ballast effectively shorted out). If this is low then the ignition wiring that effectively shorts out the resistor may be to blame.

Have you tried roll starting it to see if you can at least get it to run at all?

Not tried roll-starting. With ign on and points open, I am getting 12v to the coil but only 0.7v from the other side of the ballast resistor; which immediately gets so hot it starts to smoke. I will try replacing the ballast resistor today, but I'm now thinking there's a wiring short somewhere in the ignition circuit? There's definitely no spark from the coil. I just can't understand why it would run fine and then just not start at all an hour or so later?

Is there any real issue using a 1.6ohm ballast resistor instead of the 1.4ohm standard? they don't make 1.4 anymore.

You can temporarily bypass the ballast resistor. If left bypassed permanently, it will burn out the points quicker. But at least that way you'll be able to rule it out if it still won't fire.

tops wrote:Is there any real issue using a 1.6ohm ballast resistor instead of the 1.4ohm standard? they don't make 1.4 anymore.

1.6 Ohm would be OK. Just means the coil won't have quite as mucl kick to it. If it is a problem go to Dick Smith Electronics and buy a 12 ohm, 10 Watt wirewound resistor and connect that across the ballast resistor terminals, that should bring it down to 1.4 ohm total.

tops wrote:Not tried roll-starting. With ign on and points open, I am getting 12v to the coil but only 0.7v from the other side of the ballast resistor; which immediately gets so hot it starts to smoke. I will try replacing the ballast resistor today, but I'm now thinking there's a wiring short somewhere in the ignition circuit? There's definitely no spark from the coil. I just can't understand why it would run fine and then just not start at all an hour or so later?

I just re-read you last post. How have you wired this up? Sounds like you have ign pos to one side of the ballast resistor and points to the other.

Should look something like this:

Hi,

Did you end up finding the problem? sounds like what s going on with mine at the moment, replaced every part in the ignition system and cant get a spark?

I ended up giving up in the end and employed an auto-leckie. I can't see what he's done other than rewire from coil to distributor. I tried this and didn't get a result so don't know what he's done. It's working fine though now. I think the PO has done a lot of dodgy wiring. I don't have a stezza anymore though and too scared to rewire it back up (if it ain't broke, don't fix it)