Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've had a search and couldn't find the information I was after.

Can someone explain the differences of a rear locker for Sierra with or without couplers.
I understand the one with couplers doesn't utilise the side gears.

Is the one with couplers smoother in operation?

What are peoples experiences of the two?

I have had a welded rear for around 5 years now and only this weekend it went bang.
Are they as predictable as a welded rear? Do they unlock around corners or when on the pedal on the tracks?

I've got a front airlocker but as it only gets driven to and from the track i'm not too interested getting an airlocker in the rear.

Should I put a lock right, spool or weld it again?

Thoughts and comments appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul

I vote for the weld!

lol 100% agree...

weld weld weld...

i would never buy another arb air leaker again

i'll happily swap you a lincon locker for your air leaker if you dont like the leaker that much

Can tell you from personal experience that the NON-coupler model Lockright is smoother and less noisy.
I had the non-coupler model in the back diff of zook for a few years and it rarely banged or anything (probably because it was slipping a few teeth) but it still engaged and disengaged around corners and such if you werent careful on the throttle. I then swapped it over to a coupler model, at the same time I shoved the pAyRB locker in the front diff.
It was louder and banged out of some corners with the exact same diff setup, but thats pretty normal.

i have a lockright with coupler in the rear and one without in the front (2 pin carrier)
my front works really well and is quite and unlocks well, i have never felt that i needed
power steering.
the rear is noisy and can be a bit random with locking and unlocking when driving, it has annoyed me enough
when towing that i am putting a open diff back in it.
if i was doing it again i would put 1510 lockrights in both diffs, however i would buy new side gears.

If you only drive it to and from the tracks and you have had it welded for the last 5 years without a problem why would you change??? I know a lot of people think its the worst thing but its really not. Once you get the hang of it and you know its there its fine. I vote for re-welding it and putting the $300+ to better use on something else.

If you get some thick wall pipe, cut it to the size between your side gears then weld it into place. Doing that you have just made a spool. After that then do all the normal welding between the gears and you will have a much stronger welded diff.

I have brand new lock-right locker for a serria without couplers, that im not using as i have sold the car... if your interested PM me....

Had lockright without couplers and a welded rear .. my vote is for the welded rear ... just that tiny bit more predictable.

What PJ said.


B4T