Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hiya fellas,

What do you guys use for thread repair? I'm not talking about inserts - helicoils etc.

My wheel studs or lugs are quite tight to get moving with some of them starting fine but then getting quite a bit of resistance if tightening by hand. With a standard wheel brace they are easy. Others go on by hand a lot easier.

I saw this looks cool: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJdifN-dg-M

I'm wondering what's out there for repairing both male and female threads.

CHeers.

Not wanting to bash my products but they really are good in this department.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Another thing to do is make a tap/die out of a new or good wheel nut. using a cut off wheel cut a grove into a loose wheel stud (or a bolt with the same treads) Making it like a tap.

the studs are probably stretched, i would replace them.

Yeah, pushing your luck with wheel studs/nuts is a crazy man's game. Buy new ones, google 'nice products wheel studs' and look up a part number or just walk into any autobahn/repco/etc.

hotgemini wrote:Buy new ones

For sure.

As well as studs stretching nuts get smaller where they contact the taper and may need the first few mm redrilled.

Bazzle

being wheel studs you should just replace them. But for most other thread repair I'd use a thread file. It's much more convenient and cheaper than having a whole heap of taps and dies of different sizes lying about. tap and dies are really just for making new threads, not so much thread repair.

Thanks for the tips so far.

What stretches wheel studs? Overtightening?

TheOtherLeft wrote:Thanks for the tips so far.

What stretches wheel studs? Overtightening?

Rattleguns

TheOtherLeft wrote:Thanks for the tips so far.

What stretches wheel studs? Overtightening?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic ... 2&t=218190" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Gives the principles. There have been several other thread about the subject too (no pun intended)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#Mech ... ifications" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

"...Tensile ultimate strength is the stress at which the bolt fails. Tensile yield strength is the stress at which the bolt will receive a permanent set (an elongation from which it will not recover when the force is removed) of 0.2 % offset strain. When elongating a fastener prior to reaching the yield point, the fastener is said to be operating in the elastic region; whereas elongation beyond the yield point is referred to as operating in the plastic region, since the fastener has suffered permanent plastic deformation...."

In short, overtightening. Once the process has stated the molecular structure of the material changes and the material gets weaker, to the point where even the normal torque requirements for that stud are enough to put it int plastic mode, sending it on a slippery slide to failure. It stretches each time it is "correctly" loaded after being overloaded initially.

Yep, as I said, Rattleguns.

Your not gunna reach "elasticity" , "elongation", "Plastic deformation" and "yield" with a normal wheel brace or even a standard breaker bar.

rattleguns, hate em ,stay away from em, won't use em and don't you touch my nuts with one

Cheers

chris_stoffa wrote:Yep, as I said, Rattleguns.

Your not gunna reach "elasticity" , "elongation", "Plastic deformation" and "yield" with a normal wheel brace or even a standard breaker bar.

rattleguns, hate em ,stay away from em, won't use em and don't you touch my nuts with one

Cheers

What did the old rattleguns torque nuts up to? I assume those coloured torque bar attachments would be accurate, assuming of course teh monkey used the right one.

chris_stoffa wrote:Yep, as I said, Rattleguns.

Your not gunna reach "elasticity" , "elongation", "Plastic deformation" and "yield" with a normal wheel brace or even a standard breaker bar.

rattleguns, hate em ,stay away from em, won't use em and don't you touch my nuts with one

Cheers

Not even with a torque bar?

And what about for undoing bolts?

Yeah, we now use rattle guns for fast removal of nuts and a quick blip to tighten until contact then tension them all by hand now after rattling too tight.