Outer Limits 4x4 Board

SOME OF YOU PEOPLE ARE A REAL DISAPPOINTMENT IM NOT GOING TO LOWER MYSELF TO YOUR STANDARDS SORRY FOR TRYING TO DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT
COS ALL YOUR TRUCKS PRETTY MUCH LOOK THE SAME ,COST YOU A SHITLOAD OF MONEY AND TIME OF WHICH YOU WOULD NEVER GET BACK

cool another truggy build so what are your plans with it

need some more info on what setup you have what gearbox.transfer
if its a lt230 there are no vacum lines its mechanical operateed what you need to do is check up on top of the transfer where you diff lock lever is connected to the transfer to see if its still conected bolt could of come of or the mechanicals could have come loose
that would be my first check
Cheers Kelvin

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please dont red neck the suspension....the rover suspension is a very good design and can be made to flex extremely well...

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So what are some of the specs of this truggy your building?

rod baker wrote:gee how not take that as an insult

its a toy and why would i waste money on a rover almost all of the mechanicals are described as a weak link
the design could have been great but man they break they leak they rattle n clunk the reason this is what i have is i like the v 8 sound and i can get the whole 4by for around 500 even a suzuki sierra cost more

and before you get all indignant and go on about what the hell do you know i owned rovers 2 x vandenplas cars 1 disco a seires 3 long wheel base .

and have you ever seen a truggy or a rock climber with original type suspension i think not

and lastly a red neck is an american

your first post said you were building a truggy from a 85 Range Rover....and since when has anyone had problems with the radius arms or A frames on rovers? The trailing arms are a little light but should be the stronger versions on your 85....so a rover is a waste of money but yet you still use one because its cheap.....not the best logic

plenty of capable rovers even a few old buggys were based around the rover rear end. Search Strange Rover, he did some stuff with rover suspension ....So anyway lets see some pics of the extreme toy you have that has way more capable suspension that one running rover links...

and lastly Red neck is a term used to descibe a few different things depending on its use....Im pretty sure you can understand what I was getting at... if you think inboarding the coils on a rover frame is a good idea then I think you fit the Red Neck definition

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rod baker wrote:INTERESTING I DO NOT KNOW WHERE YOU GETTING HALF YOUR FACTS .

TO BE HONEST IF YOU CALLED ME A REDNECK IN PERSON ID SHOVE MY FIST DOWN YOUR THROAT ,

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY I AM NOT SURE WHY I HAVE WASTED MY TIME AND ENERGY ON SOMEONE WHO GOES BY "UNINFORMED" BECAUSE YOUR NAME IS THE MOST CORRECT THING I HAVE SEEN YOU POST

Hey Rod,

read my posts they are pretty clear. The comments I made regarding what you were going to do was directly from the FACTS you posted....ie: building a truggy from a 1985 RR: softer springs or move them closer to center line to improve flex.....If Im missing something like your using a different chassis or such its because I cant pull a crystal ball out of my arse and read your mind.

moving the springs inboard on a RR chassis is not a great idea. There are plenty of hardcore rovers from owners all around the world that run the radius arms and the A frame rear.... some will change the RA's out to a 3 link but still alot keep the rear A frame....go onto pirate4x4 and search "frankenrover"

You have taken the red neck comment to heart....grow some thicker skin... putting your fist down my throat is a moot point over the internet mate...

before you go keep getting your panties in a twist why dont you post up some more info as alot of guys here can offer you good advice. If you dont get your Tcase sorted here go over to Aulro and ask in the tech section.

Merry Christmas

Jeez...you two need to get a room

Transferring the springs more inboard of where they are wont help give you more flex. The arse end of a Rover have an excellent design and you can do much worse than to keep it. The front RA design is the best RA design for suspension travel, bar none. That includes Toyota and Nissan. Both of these flex like a house brick by comparison. To step up from that set up, as Uninformed has said, you can go to a 3 link and panhard. Go on Pirate4x4 and look up Buckon37s, Mightymg1 and Frankenrover...again, as Uninformed has already said.

Here's some pics of my truck with stock suspension and a 3" lift:

rod baker wrote:INTERESTING I DO NOT KNOW WHERE YOU GETTING HALF YOUR FACTS .

TO BE HONEST IF YOU CALLED ME A REDNECK IN PERSON ID SHOVE MY FIST DOWN YOUR THROAT ,

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY I AM NOT SURE WHY I HAVE WASTED MY TIME AND ENERGY ON SOMEONE WHO GOES BY "UNINFORMED" BECAUSE YOUR NAME IS THE MOST CORRECT THING I HAVE SEEN YOU POST

Gee all this anger and on christmas day did santa not bring you what you wanted ,by threating physical damage on somebody on a forum is real tough

so if you really want some help you have really gone about it the wrong way

anyway so have you checked the linkages on top of the TC this can be done by removing the center console and removing the access plate once you are there folow all the linkages back to the TC and there should connected to a type of bolt remove the linkage leaving the 10mm bolt on case then try and activate it with a 10mm spanner towards the passenger seat if i remember is CDL on towards driver seat is CDL off grease and grime seems to build up in this area a fair bit so degrease it easier
alot of the time the linkages wear due to rattling around try that then get back to us ,and maybe when you come back lets change /tone down the tough guy attitude you did come here and ask for help and maybe more help will come from many other people ,and i dont read that uniformed caled you a redneck but used a figure of speach about suspension


so back to your range rover truggy what are your build plans as i am building one at the momement and quite intrested
Thanks Kelvin

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If you've gutted the body, then may'be try a set of front srpings in the rear, they should be a lot lighter. Remove the boge strut from the rear a frame as it will limit you. if you need long travel shocks, perhaps go the GQ/80 Series combo, nice and cheap and simple, will have to make pin eye converters for the rear shocks though. Holey bushes for the front arms will help it flex more aswell.

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rod baker wrote: all your suspension remarks are based on assumptions based on what is normal (and to honest i don't get considered normal all that often)

Seems like all our tried and true suspensions setups aren't what your after, time to start cutting and shutting, good luck, keep us posted

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how much rear travel are you chasing, sounds like you need longer cranked rear arms

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i would be removing std springs and shocks and replacing with FOX shocks if you going that far and can get even more than that you can achieve that with mods to std set up but if you want to go to that lenght you might aswell go the full hog first up and save on later adjustments thats my opinion
dont get me wrong modded rangie suspension is better than alot of 4wd.

so kelvin u talking fox air shocks? coilovers? aircoilovers? or u mean replace with different springs and run fox shocks? bypass shocks? triple bypass shocks? remote resevoirs?......

i presume u mean scrap the standard spring/shock set up and go to an air shock for longer travel, if u want oodles of ramp queen action, this would be your easiest way to build a more balanced rig, better then inboarding your coils, etc and build some proper links

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Here's a few pic's of my rrc truggy with fox airs and stock a frame and cranked trailing arms hope this helps .
Hope the pic's work if not will try again .
No don't work that way

OK try again

def90 wrote:so kelvin u talking fox air shocks? coilovers? aircoilovers? or u mean replace with different springs and run fox shocks? bypass shocks? triple bypass shocks? remote resevoirs?......

i presume u mean scrap the standard spring/shock set up and go to an air shock for longer travel, if u want oodles of ramp queen action, this would be your easiest way to build a more balanced rig, better then inboarding your coils, etc and build some proper links

yeah sorry fox airs gregs RRc truggy has loads of useful travel its just a awesome setup

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discothrasher wrote:

Does it have springs in the front? Or is it solid mounted?

All that flex in the rear is wasted if the front has non.

rod baker wrote:WOW now thats flex and ive not heard of fox air shox before out of curiosity what are they worth

Are you serious?

You've been spouting off in here with an attitude like a $2 whore and you have never heard of Fox shocks?

Top right hand corner of the screen is the search button. Type Fox shocks in there and in Google. Then join http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/index.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and search the people that have been aforementioned.

As for the cost, that depends where you get them. Try locktup or ABT4x4 for pricing, but they range from $400 to $1500 each depending on how deep your pockets are and how cool you want to be.

It does have springs at the moment Ruff but i do have fox air's
for the front it's just getting the time to do the front suspension.
Always something else to do .