Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am moving a dizzy to the front of motor from the back.
I was going to belt drive it with a timing belt, but I am now thinking maybe a motor bike chain to drive it. will the chain have too much play and put my timing out?

What sort of motor? Is there an EFI version of the motor available? (dizzy free)

This is not common and I seriously doubt it could be done with anything less than a shaft drive due to harmonics of the belt/chain altering the timing, given that the drive pulley for the belt/chain would have to be reasonably small and consequently would wobble more for any slack in the belt/chain.

Dizzy at the back would be more water resistant. Why the move?

I'm with Gary - I think there's a significant risk that this will never work satisfactorily, and you could waste a lot of time & money in the process.

Have you considered an electronic system, like (Ford?) EDIS? May seem more daunting initially, but I would guess a reliable working system will be less complicated in the long run.

What motor are you using? You can't adapt something from another motor?

I would be surprised if you could get consistent timing with it. Too much play as you suggested. Then again maybe it's been done. I think I would sooner install something like megajolt than try to move a distributor.

the dizzy is being adapted from another motor. it is an injected dizzy with the coil pack inside it as well as the hall effects sensor thing

its been done before with the same motor in the US. here is a pic but Im using a differnt dizzy

Rhett wrote:the dizzy is being adapted from another motor. it is an injected dizzy with the coil pack inside it as well as the hall effects sensor thing

In a 4age blacktop 20v we kept the dizzy and CAS in the stock position and machined a cap on the lathe to water proof it. it ran a std coil however.

We then made a bracket to fit the rotor button to the centre of the cam gear, and mounted the cap to a braket on the front of the motor.

As mentioned the ford EDIS + mega squirt is definately worth a look in

Maybe run a Hall effect sensor with blanking plate top reduce the height in its stock position, with three Hall pickups going to coil-on-plug driven from CDI drives from a motorbike?. Look for a triple EFI motorbike setup?

If that is a Suzuki engine then look at some of the Jap import places for the EFI setups that have the electronic ignition.

Outside the box alternatives...

Well, there may be easier ways to do it, but I like the little gilmer belt idea shown (don't like your chain idea tho)... I dont think you'd get any worse spark scatter than a normal gear drive settup... have a go....

I see no reason why a belt drive dissy won't work and be accurate and reliable.

want33s wrote:

I see no reason why a belt drive dissy won't work and be accurate and reliable.

Now that I see that, I'll change my mind. Plenty of engines use distributors timed off belt-driven camshafts, so I guess there's no reason a decent belt drive direct to the distributor shouldn't work.

I think that look's heaps cool and can't see any reason why it wouldn't work, go do it Rhett.

A few different way to think about it.
You could mount one of these http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/56 ... 20142.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; directly over the cam or crank pully. They are nice and thin profile and you would have less brain damage getting a 4cyl dizy to work on a 3 cyl. Using the 6 cyl flat dizzy you would just cap off cyl 2 4 6 and run off cyl 1 3 5.

Or have you looked at using 2 angle drives? Get a old cam from a 1.6 cut the end of the cam off drill a hole in the middle put the cam bolt through it. Make a bracket that hold the first angle drive over the front of the cam gear. Have the second angle drive direct it down the side of the head. Using gears it would be less likely to jump out of time. Using a chain or belt in time it will stretch causing you problems down the track.

V.W.Dave wrote:A different way to think about it. Have you looked at using 2 angle drives? Get a old cam from a 1.6 cut the end of the cam off drill a hole in the middle put the cam bolt through it. Make a bracket that hold the first angle drive over the front of the cam gear. Have the second angle drive direct it down the side of the head. Using gears it would be less likely to jump out of time. Using a chain or belt in time it will stretch causing you problems down the track.

The gears will have lash... 2 sets twice as much and there is no way to take the lash out... and it takes more power to drive 2 sets of gears than a belt... I don't like it.....

RED60 wrote:

V.W.Dave wrote:A different way to think about it. Have you looked at using 2 angle drives? Get a old cam from a 1.6 cut the end of the cam off drill a hole in the middle put the cam bolt through it. Make a bracket that hold the first angle drive over the front of the cam gear. Have the second angle drive direct it down the side of the head. Using gears it would be less likely to jump out of time. Using a chain or belt in time it will stretch causing you problems down the track.

The gears will have lash... 2 sets twice as much and there is no way to take the lash out... and it takes more power to drive 2 sets of gears than a belt... I don't like it.....

Sorry I reworded it right as you quoted it.

I might be able to help ya with some pullies and belt if ya need them Rhett.