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interior panel replacement
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:29 pm
by Mr.MojoRising
Yo amigos
I want to replace te pooey masonite (i think) side panels from the inside of my MQ SWB. Anyone done this ? I'm wondering what to replace them with. Aluminium checkerplate would be ideal i reckon, but for the cost and the rice factor.
was also thinking of plain aluminium or stainless steel sheet. I dont really want to use plywood or any kind of wood, mainly because sawdust s#$%s me, and i'd be worried about it holding moisture. Plus i prefer working with metal.
Any ideas, hints, experiences, anecdotes leading to the thread being hijacked ?
Theres no going back now, i ripped the old ones taking them out. bloody plastic clips

.
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:32 pm
by Hoonz
use the old ones for templates ...
plain sheet aluminium or checker plate is good ...
back with with a thin sheet of foam so it doesn't rattle! ... rubber places have some water proof stuff ...
use nutcerts ... and use a nice dome head allan key bolt to hold in place
bling nice rice factor lol ...
who cares if its rice its practial and doesnt hold water
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:44 pm
by Mr.MojoRising
Hoonz wrote:bling nice rice factor lol ...
who cares if its rice its practial and doesnt hold water
fair call
rice and practical are mutually exclusive i suppose
although i dont know how many times my fully sik LED windscreen washers have saved me out in the bush. bro.
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:47 pm
by Hoonz
it also doesn't rot ... they will never fall apart ...
they won't get smelly ... and they're easy to clean ...
get the plain sheet if u don't like rice ... i have checker plate cause
we have it laying around
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:54 pm
by Mr.MojoRising
any idea how much plain alum. and checkerplate cost per sq. metre ?
The local bunnings has sheets of c/plate approx 600x600 for $51. obviously it would be a fair bit less at a metal place but its still pretty dear.
Moneys a bit of an issue at the mo, not working much because of illness.
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:57 pm
by Hoonz
dunno i got checker plate 2mx1.3m for $100
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 11:09 pm
by I.M.P.O.S.E
Anyone ever tried Laminex?
Nice and light. Plenty of choices. Seems fairly waterproof on the bench in my kitchen!
Dont know how strong it would be with a highlift or something smashing into it.
Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 9:40 am
by Cliffy
Go the Ali checker plate, Like all the other guys said looks great and easy to clean, used to have it in my 40 series.... hose the doors down and scrub with a brush came up like new, go the captive but/button head cap screw idea like what Hoonz said, I went the pop rivet route PITA!!!!!
Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 11:54 am
by spazbot
mmm nutcerts they rock, just got a nutcert tool, damn they make life easy
Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 1:04 pm
by murcod
Mojo, Paramount Browns on Cavan Rd sell large sheets of ally chequer plate. They would have to be cheaper than Bunnings....
Another option I've used in the past is coloured perspex (or clear with marine carpet stuck on it.
Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 6:35 pm
by Cliffy
Ok did a quick search for nutcerts and tool, no such luck, spazbot where did you get your tool/nutcerts from, sounds like one of those must have tools and would do a great job

Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 7:04 pm
by Mr.MojoRising
fantastic cheers murcod i'll check them out, after all, you never know what you'll find there.
Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 7:07 pm
by DiscoDino
Just did my Discovery 5 door 2 weeks ago with 2mm alum with 2mm checkerplate. Expensive, true, but worth every cent!
It was NOT that difficult actually, we did 4 panels each side (footwell, 2xdoors, rear inner fender) and the rear truck door, so 9 in total, took us 3 days as there is a lot of patience, and "correctly placed holes" to pull through.
We were able to save 34kg from the original s**t, and 4cm in room for the hips (I need it), so that was cool. Plus you can clean is very easily.
No pics yet. I'll get some and post in a month when I am back home

Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 1:44 pm
by grimbo
just make sure you bevel the edges of the panelsor you will find you will be cutting yourself on sharp edges
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 6:31 pm
by spazbot
Cliffy wrote:Ok did a quick search for nutcerts and tool, no such luck, spazbot where did you get your tool/nutcerts from, sounds like one of those must have tools and would do a great job

think mine came from blackwoods, the old man bought it, ill see if i can get some details.
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 1:22 pm
by blkmav
I am about to replace mine and just bought waterproof carpet. It has a flexible plastic back. It weighs nothing and you can cut it to any shape with a jigsaw. Cost me $60 for enough to do two cars.
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 1:43 pm
by murcod
blkmav wrote:I am about to replace mine and just bought waterproof carpet. It has a flexible plastic back. It weighs nothing and you can cut it to any shape with a jigsaw. Cost me $60 for enough to do two cars.
So the backing on the carpet is solid enough to use it as a panel?! What brand is it and where did you get it?
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 2:31 pm
by Patroler
I just used plain 1.6mm stainless sheet, decided against alu checkerplate as I rest my right foot against it to stop it bouncing around - so I wanted it reasonably smooth and didn't want alu on my shoes

Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 4:50 pm
by blkmav
murcod wrote:blkmav wrote:I am about to replace mine and just bought waterproof carpet. It has a flexible plastic back. It weighs nothing and you can cut it to any shape with a jigsaw. Cost me $60 for enough to do two cars.
So the backing on the carpet is solid enough to use it as a panel?! What brand is it and where did you get it?
Yes the backing is solid enough to hold its shape. I don't know the brand as I bought it from a market in 2m x 2m lengths. It looks like off-cuts.
interior
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 9:40 pm
by Webbie
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:37 am
by murcod
How are you going to cut the laminex to shape without chipping the edges? Does a router or something like that work?
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 10:23 am
by spazbot
band saw works fine
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 10:56 am
by V8Patrol
I went n saw the local Kitchen cabinet maker and he gave me 3ply with a white plastic backing sheet. The sheet 8'X4' cost a staggering $6.00 !!!
laid the old trims on the sheet and marked em out
cut it with a jigsaw
DONE
later on however I swaped em over ( side to side ) and covered them with vinyl.... also easy as and for the additional cost of $22.00 for the vinyl, foam backing and the glue they look just like the std trims only new and pretty

Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 11:04 am
by jabboo
can you guys who have replaced your interior panels put up some photos of the finished product.
would give us all a visual reference.
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 11:29 am
by V8Patrol
jabboo wrote:can you guys who have replaced your interior panels put up some photos of the finished product.
would give us all a visual reference.
I'd have to clean the back of the patrol out

Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 2:05 pm
by Mr.MojoRising
what the freak is a nutcert ?
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 3:21 pm
by V8Patrol
Oh I forgot to add ......
Juddy did his black rigs interior during the respray... he did the same thing as I did only he covered the 3ply with "stick on" alloy checker plate, its cheap and not bad to look at .... try SuperCheap for the stuff.
I can get pics if your really insist
Kingy
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2004 6:23 pm
by murcod
Mr.MojoRising wrote:what the freak is a nutcert ?
AFAIK it's a tool that can fix captive nuts onto bodywork etc.
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 10:22 am
by Leprecaun
Will post mine up shortly, I did mine in Chqer Plate 1.6mm. Been a little bit of a bitch because of the rounded curves, but it looks pretty good now. I made a new panel which holds all my switches for lights, lockers, winch when I get one

, spotties, etc... Did it in lighted switches so that even when the car is off I know whats still on.
