Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys i have a all wheel drive 80 just put a swivel hub kit in it with all new bearing oil the whole thing basically and shes leaking again i followed instructions off the manual this is the 3rd time i have had to do it obviously something is flogged out and i dont know wat because it is making the seal leak every couple of months any one got any ideas ?

Where is it leaking from? And have you done axle seals?

pretty sure its the inner hib seal leakin diff oil into the outer hub which has the grease in it causing both grease and oil to come out past the scraper seals

The inner hub seal doesn't seal oil, the axle seal is in the housing. It's a ring and the axle slips inside it, that's where the oil should stop. If that's rooted then oil will just keep leaking out of axle housing. When replacing it be careful to make sure the seal is put in square and even.

First check if the breather is blocked.

Second check the axle shafts both sides and see if there is any serious wearing on the axle where the seal runs. It could be so bad it's cutting up the seals early. The seal does seal oil. The metal ring behind the seal is a sling. It stops masses of oil hitting the seal, and also helps to support the axle when inserting it into the diff gear.

Thirdly 80 series front axles are prone to bending.Have it checked to see if it's straight. Sometimes they are so bent you can actually see it looking down the tube at the diff.

hey sprung up cruiser sorry i am mistaken i ment the seal in the housing and hopefuly i put it in properly i will have to inspect it wen i pull it out an it has brand new cvs in it done less than 5 thousand klms
i have not checked the breather though so i should check its operation

Sounds like a bent housing then I'd say.

Keep in mind the CV joint disconnects from the axle shaft. So although the CV joints are new the existing axle (which is probably original) could still have marks worn in it.

Not sure if there is much room to reposition the seal either.

I think I have heard of people sleving worn axles so it seals properly

it sounds like mine turn out i had to sleave the axles witch cost bugger all no more leaking

If u have driveline services down there take Ur truck to them they can fix Ur axle and I found them reasonable on price as well
Cheers mick

Warn axles, bent housing, stuffed seals. Get some marlin crawlers inner axle seals.

what is different with the marlin crawler seals???

164% better seal than normal. and 89% wider than normal seals.
Your diff oil is getting past your inner seal and contaminating your grease and leaking out your hub seal. If you can stop that part. Then most of your troubles are fixed.

http://locktup4x4.com.au/landcruiser-87 ... r-244.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I dont have any in mine as of yet. But alot of other guys who complain about a constant flow/leak put these seals in and have not leaked again.

While your there get this aswell for piece of mind.
http://www.gearingdynamics.com/cvboot.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

great find

TheBigBoy wrote:164% better seal than normal. and 89% wider than normal seals.
Your diff oil is getting past your inner seal and contaminating your grease and leaking out your hub seal. If you can stop that part. Then most of your troubles are fixed.

http://locktup4x4.com.au/landcruiser-87 ... r-244.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I dont have any in mine as of yet. But alot of other guys who complain about a constant flow/leak put these seals in and have not leaked again.

While your there get this aswell for piece of mind.
http://www.gearingdynamics.com/cvboot.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Rubbish. I don't doubt the seals are a good thing for worn sealing surface but they are a bandaid for any number of issues which can continue to raise their head not long after doing the insertion.

As mentioned IF the rebuild of the front end has been carried out correctly, the breathers are not blocked and the sealing surface isn't stuffed then it can be a bent housing as mentioned, it can also be a worn bronze bushing in the stub axle. Toyota considers the stub axle a consumable part after xxxx kilometers, as the bushing inside it holds the outer axle at a predetermined height to the seal. Incorrect shims on the knuckles also contribute to this.

Both my front and rear housings were bent and even the marlin seals didn't help. If you have stripped down the front end it really isn't that much more work to remove the housing altogether and have it sent off to be checked for straightness. Also run a set of verniers over the ID of the bronze bushing to find out if it is in spec.

rockcrawler31 wrote:

TheBigBoy wrote:164% better seal than normal. and 89% wider than normal seals.
Your diff oil is getting past your inner seal and contaminating your grease and leaking out your hub seal. If you can stop that part. Then most of your troubles are fixed.

http://locktup4x4.com.au/landcruiser-87 ... r-244.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I dont have any in mine as of yet. But alot of other guys who complain about a constant flow/leak put these seals in and have not leaked again.

While your there get this aswell for piece of mind.
http://www.gearingdynamics.com/cvboot.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Rubbish. I don't doubt the seals are a good thing for worn sealing surface but they are a bandaid for any number of issues which can continue to raise their head not long after doing the insertion.

As mentioned IF the rebuild of the front end has been carried out correctly, the breathers are not blocked and the sealing surface isn't stuffed then it can be a bent housing as mentioned, it can also be a worn bronze bushing in the stub axle. Toyota considers the stub axle a consumable part after xxxx kilometers, as the bushing inside it holds the outer axle at a predetermined height to the seal. Incorrect shims on the knuckles also contribute to this.

Both my front and rear housings were bent and even the marlin seals didn't help. If you have stripped down the front end it really isn't that much more work to remove the housing altogether and have it sent off to be checked for straightness. Also run a set of verniers over the ID of the bronze bushing to find out if it is in spec.

Who? Where? Ive tried to get my diff housing straightened here in bris many time and all dead ends. A band aid maybe, but it has worked good enough for many many people. In my mates cases it has stoped it dead, just like many other stories Ive heard. If you dont have the $$$ or the places to get it straightened or checked. Marlin crawlers worth giving a try first. It wont work for all cases but its a good place to start.

TheBigBoy wrote:

rockcrawler31 wrote:

TheBigBoy wrote:164% better seal than normal. and 89% wider than normal seals.
Your diff oil is getting past your inner seal and contaminating your grease and leaking out your hub seal. If you can stop that part. Then most of your troubles are fixed.

http://locktup4x4.com.au/landcruiser-87 ... r-244.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I dont have any in mine as of yet. But alot of other guys who complain about a constant flow/leak put these seals in and have not leaked again.

While your there get this aswell for piece of mind.
http://www.gearingdynamics.com/cvboot.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Rubbish. I don't doubt the seals are a good thing for worn sealing surface but they are a bandaid for any number of issues which can continue to raise their head not long after doing the insertion.

As mentioned IF the rebuild of the front end has been carried out correctly, the breathers are not blocked and the sealing surface isn't stuffed then it can be a bent housing as mentioned, it can also be a worn bronze bushing in the stub axle. Toyota considers the stub axle a consumable part after xxxx kilometers, as the bushing inside it holds the outer axle at a predetermined height to the seal. Incorrect shims on the knuckles also contribute to this.

Both my front and rear housings were bent and even the marlin seals didn't help. If you have stripped down the front end it really isn't that much more work to remove the housing altogether and have it sent off to be checked for straightness. Also run a set of verniers over the ID of the bronze bushing to find out if it is in spec.

Who? Where? Ive tried to get my diff housing straightened here in bris many time and all dead ends. A band aid maybe, but it has worked good enough for many many people. In my mates cases it has stoped it dead, just like many other stories Ive heard. If you dont have the $$$ or the places to get it straightened or checked. Marlin crawlers worth giving a try first. It wont work for all cases but its a good place to start.

Sorry champ, i made it sound a little more personal than i meant. If it works for you or them then brilliant, but it's a gamble and a huge pain in the ass if you find it doesn't work and you have to pull it all down again, when you could have gone that little extra in the first instance.

I had my diffs straightened in Melbourne which is where i was at the time at JacMac diff and gear, but i'm sure there's a good diff/gearbox rebuilder in brisbane who know's their shite. Mine cost about 150 each housing to have straightened plus the time and effort of organising getting them there by borrowing a vehicle. Given the number of times i pulled down that front end, used consumables, gaskets, grease, oil etc, PLUS my time each time PLUS the aggravation of it all i'd have paid a lot more than 150 bucks in hindsight.