Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys, am far from an expert on Jeeps so need some info on setting a Wrangler up for Navrun type events. Current vehicle is basically stock and the requirements are for it to be firstly reliable, capable and fast point to point. It will be used on Vic type tracks (mostly mid level) and beach/dune stuff. Preffered tyre size is something like a 33/10.5/15 and keeping it as low as possible to be able to run this size.
I would like to improve the gearing for on road as well.
Thanks in advance for your info and ideas.

33/10.5/15 will limit your tyre choices but i am guessing you have simexs in mind anyway

33's are pretty good on a tj As you in Vic talk to Tony at USA 4x4 he has set plenty of TJ's and is bit of a fan of high speed runs through the scrub

He will be able to guide you through the maze of after market parts available for Jeeps

There is plenty of choices for gearing with 33's 4.10 will return you close to stock but if you think your going to go to 35's in the future look at 4.56 now and enjoy a but of extra grunt at the expense of fuel consumption

Mate are you prepared to cut?
If so my recommendation would be:

50mm OME lift, H/Duty SYE, flat Bellyup - with the floorpan tunnel expanded to accept the t/case & tranny sitting higher.
A 1" MML to help the driveline angles - but NO body lift. Instead trim the guards and lower the bumo stops a bit more.
Dual Lockers with 4.1 ratio would be ideal.
Keep it light & simpe and spend any remaining $$$ on performance mods

Cool guys, this was along the lines of what i had in mind.
A few more Qs, who does the best SYE or is it just a matter of any one at the best price?
Whose gear sets are generally best and what ratios are available?
After fixing SYE, gearing, lift, (already had OME in mind) and tyres, where is the next area in these things likely to give reliability probs?.... front shaft, diff housing strength, front knuckle unis? I would prefer to fix all these things before they become a problem.
As for power-up gear i'm thinking exhaust (already has extractors) K&N, TB spacer, maybe bigger throttle body etc....sound good, what else is available???
Thanks again 4 your advice.

Juzza wrote:Cool guys, this was along the lines of what i had in mind.
A few more Qs, who does the best SYE or is it just a matter of any one at the best price?
Whose gear sets are generally best and what ratios are available?
After fixing SYE, gearing, lift, (already had OME in mind) and tyres, where is the next area in these things likely to give reliability probs?.... front shaft, diff housing strength, front knuckle unis? I would prefer to fix all these things before they become a problem.
As for power-up gear i'm thinking exhaust (already has extractors) K&N, TB spacer, maybe bigger throttle body etc....sound good, what else is available???
Thanks again 4 your advice.

What elase is available LOL you name you can get it

For the engine you can get stroker kits or superchargers almost anything you want


gears stick with dana they seem to have the best reputation

What else to fix well for 33's you should be right but it depends if you drive like you stole it or drive with finese

If you drive it like you stole it either new front diff maybe a 44 or go all out on a dana 60 front and rear but that is way overkill for 33's?? or do a the warn or someone leses super 30 upgrades new shafts bigger unijoints etc

I would build it then upgrade what ever breaks

Yeah Dave's pretty much on the money.....
Although I think Dana gearsets are possibly better - I haven't heard of many non-gen failures.....very very few - I run Superior R&P..... So personally I woun't be affraid of non-gen....

As for the D30 - again it's not that weak an axle - but it has good clearance......A D44 is only really going to give you a bigger R&P.....
Personally I think either add a bit of beef to the standard D30 - or consider a High Pinion XJ D30 and work with that.....I would only really recommend a D60 if you see 36+ tyres in your future.

Best SYE - simple An Atlas2 .....Next best go for a SuperShort SYE.

I've run 33x10.5s and found the handling to be terrible (BFG M/Ts) primarily due to a narrower tread design than a 31x10.5. This depends on make of tyre but 33x12.5 might be more comfortable on quick runs. Wooders suggestion of running a flat transfer case bash plate with an OME lift only will most likely give you driveline vibrations - Adjustable control arms and pinion angle kits may help correct this issue. Haven't tried it but I always thought spacing your transfer case up would be a good means of testing how far you can go before fabricating a new bash plate. Don't forget to leave some cash aside for the comp rules and regs for your chosen events - window nets, roll cages, cargo barriers etc will all have to be custom fabbed and cost a bit.

JP Mark wrote: Wooders suggestion of running a flat transfer case bash plate with an OME lift only will most likely give you driveline vibrations - Adjustable control arms and pinion angle kits may help correct this issue. .

Mark,
my Logic is that an OME kit is 2½", a fully flat T/case skid should lift the T/case by about 2".....Ie the swamp working height as a 4" lift.
The adjustable arms are vertually mandatory with the SYE.
Yes a 1" MML is pushing it, and possibly a 2" MML would be needed, but then a 1" BL would be required....
However I was thinking if this was a rig to be played hard in a bit of "creative" work would be undertaken....my intended point 9which I probably failed ) was low CoG, and flat skidplates should be ideal objectives.