Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys,

When I got home from work yesterday I noticed oil leaking bad from the rear left wheel hub.

Had a closer look at the wheel, 4 of the axle studs have snapped, 1 bent and the last sitting in fine.

This has happened a couple months ago, however the axle popped out. Took it to a mechanic, charged top $$$$ to change the seal and replace the studs.

As its happened again, im wondering if I will have to change the whole hub? And possibly more if the axle housing is bent?

I found this kit on ebay - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Rear-Hub-Kit-Lan" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 4155666bef

Are there cheaper places to get parts?

Can any one help me out where to go, what parts to get etc...


Im in Sydney aswell..

Do have any form of locker fitted?

if the bearings are correcly adjusted then they should not keep snapping as long as all is in line
but diff locks will give the studs hell espesh auto locker

Ive only got front lockers on the car hmm...

How would they be adjusted? I thought they just sit in nicely?

Would it be best to replace the whole hub, with a hub kit?

Then if the problem continues, check the axle if its bent?

Then worse case the housing?

first things first check the preload on the wheel bearings if they are too loose it will alow the wheel to wobble and the axle will try and stop this
causing excessive loads

Change the axel i would say it is bent.

Put some socket head cap screws (12.9 tensile rating) i think.Get them up nice and tight also check ya wheel bearings have NO play that'll go along way to solving your problem.

check that the collet holes on your axle are round and not been flogged out of shape

I once had the same issue with an 80s. I removed all studs and replace them with unbreako bolts still using the cone and spring washers. the car has since done 100+ km with no problems.

What vehicle do you use, do you run larger than standard tyres?

Do you have alloys or steel rims? Are you wheel nuts the correct type ie don't bottom out on the thread etc?

I think he is referring to axle studs, not wheel studs.

yeah i re-read it, axle studs it is.

I had the same issue once, turned out to be a stuffed pinion bearing in the diff was putting a whole heap of vibration down the shaft and vibrating the studs loose. Once they became loose they sheared off quite quickly.

What ever you do check your dowls on the hub and the axle because they should be an interference fit within the hub and axle. If they are not they need either new hub, axle or studs which ever is damaged. Checking wheel bearing tension is just a given and do the studs up tight before you put the axle in because the studs generally loosen off before the nuts do.

i have had a persintant issue with my front end for few years now, (80 series cruiser with 33").

Background: l clipped a large tree stump with my front left wheel about 4 years ago, the stump edge hit on tyre bead/rim.

Since then, the studs broke or just fell out several times, however i did locktight new ones in which lasted about 3 years. i have replaced the axle a cv with genuine and had the studs helicoiled a couple months ago.

The vehicle still is not right, pulls left or right on braking, (brakes are all good, master replaced, calipers rebuilt.

Have l buggered my diff? which is causing the problem to persist, (like the previous post)

All advice much appreciated, because 2 x 4WD mechanics dont know.

Check the front end out, probably bent something, housing, stub axle, wheel hub or a combination of.

hulsty wrote:Check the front end out, probably bent something, housing, stub axle, wheel hub or a combination of.

Thanks.

i was tending to lean towards what you have said but l guess l just needed prompting and another opinion. (its nearly doing my head in - thank god for alcahol).

How do i check/test for a bent housing, stub or wheel hub?

i have a 75 with 35s and air lockers and have broken my rear studs a fair few times its pretty common. i drilled and tapped mine out to take 10mm studs which the 100 series are.

Sic Lux wrote:Put some socket head cap screws (12.9 tensile rating) i think.Get them up nice and tight also check ya wheel bearings have NO play that'll go along way to solving your problem.

X2 on this.. I run the 10mm socket head bolts with no problems. But I reckon the 8mm ones would be heaps!

crankycruiser wrote:

Sic Lux wrote:Put some socket head cap screws (12.9 tensile rating) i think.Get them up nice and tight also check ya wheel bearings have NO play that'll go along way to solving your problem.

X2 on this.. I run the 10mm socket head bolts with no problems. But I reckon the 8mm ones would be heaps!

When ordering these is there any particular pitch that needs to be used?

Would you also reccommend putting another 2x 8mm dowels in?

When I did mine I used 1.25 metric fine thread. I just went with 2 x 10 mm dowels instead of 4 x 7 mm dowels.

mistaboz wrote:

crankycruiser wrote:

Sic Lux wrote:Put some socket head cap screws (12.9 tensile rating) i think.Get them up nice and tight also check ya wheel bearings have NO play that'll go along way to solving your problem.

X2 on this.. I run the 10mm socket head bolts with no problems. But I reckon the 8mm ones would be heaps!

When ordering these is there any particular pitch that needs to be used?

Would you also reccommend putting another 2x 8mm dowels in?

With mine just pulled standard studs out and used same size socket head cap screws with the original cone locks done 50ish thousand k's on it with a problem yet. If that ever fails me ill go to the 10mm ones which will be ample.