Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Went for a bit of a play today to try out my new lift (3").

For some reason I couldnt engage lowrange! Just kept making grinding noises.

I changed the transfer oil about two weeks ago (penrite 80/140).

I tried moving forward and backwards a bit just in case it helped but no go!

Im not sure if lowering the gearbox 18mm is the cause of this! I needed to though cause its a SWB GQ.

Any advice anyone???

Rod

You'll have to modify your transfer shifter , floor or both.


Kyle

modify the floorpan. not that hard.. Just dont shave off TOO much as you'll make it hard to seal it off from water.

TOM

3" ?? body lift OR suspension ??
pull it into low range , lie under your car & check wether the lever is locating into the correct position in the cutout !!

if its not ...
2 options !!

1..bend transfer case lever , slightly !! (hard option)

2..rework floor & boot to allow LOW range selection !! (easier option !!)

If you drop the cross member 18mm it would be the problem.....

Had a SWB with 4" lift and only dropped cross member 12mm...did not seem to have any problems at that

rOd wrote:Im not sure if lowering the gearbox 18mm is the cause of this! I needed to though cause its a SWB GQ.

others have said it.. sounds like shifter hitting the floor

Take the cover and shit off the center console around the gear stick etc.. see if the shifter is hitting the floor pan.. If so, cut a V out of the floor behind the shifter so it doesnt hit the floor..

then try it

It appears you guys are right yet again. Im off tomorrow, will check under the car to see if the lever is fouling the floor or some other thing. Its a 3 inch suspension lift by the way.

GUpatrol wrote:If you drop the cross member 18mm it would be the problem.....

The vibration caused by the drivetrain even with the ARB 12mm spacer kit was still to much for my liking. DC drive shaft is a bit dear for me at the moment and I dont really know how to lift the engine properly. So for now 18mm lower it is.

Thanks,

Rod

thought of caster bushes, or cutting and welding the mounts?

bogged wrote:thought of caster bushes, or cutting and welding the mounts?

arent caster bushes are for steering correction?

robbie wrote:

bogged wrote:thought of caster bushes, or cutting and welding the mounts?

arent caster bushes are for steering correction?

They rotate the diff, so the angle of the join of the tailshaft and the diff arent so much.

Just curious to know why you are running 80w140 in the transfer. I would have thought it way too thick for our current conditions..BUT it would be ok if you were in a hotter climate..

Nick

bogged wrote:

robbie wrote:

bogged wrote:thought of caster bushes, or cutting and welding the mounts?

arent caster bushes are for steering correction?

They rotate the diff, so the angle of the join of the tailshaft and the diff arent so much.

Castor bushes actually increase the front driveshaft angle.

Woop wrote:Just curious to know why you are running 80w140 in the transfer. I would have thought it way too thick for our current conditions..BUT it would be ok if you were in a hotter climate..

Nick

Its probably to thick with the current climate, but we have more warm to hot days in Sydney in a year. Thats me theory anyway.

Rod

bogged wrote:thought of caster bushes, or cutting and welding the mounts?

Yes, defenitely. But I wanted to take it step by step and see what exactly I needed. Advice for caster correction from both this forum and shops has left me confused to say the least.
Some people say correction bushes are shyt and some say I dont need them for a 2-3" lift . Some say plates are the go, and some say it corrects it to much for my lift.

If I had and could use a welder, I would love to rotate the the diffs my self. So far most shops Ive approached want to sell me bolt on products that no doubt would sort my car out, but they cost way to much for me.

Rod

80/140 too thick for ANY market.

90 is plenty if YOU think it needs it.

You can use 30 weight if you want.

Cheezys longer bottom arms $150 pair to rotate rear diff.

Bazzle

MKPatrolGuy wrote:Castor bushes actually increase the front driveshaft angle.

driveshaft yes, but the join of tailshaft and diff the angle is less.

bogged wrote:

MKPatrolGuy wrote:Castor bushes actually increase the front driveshaft angle.

driveshaft yes, but the join of tailshaft and diff the angle is less.

No, it will increase because it rolls the pinion down, not up.

Thanks for all the input gentlemen.

My solution was to cut a slot of about 30mm by 20mm on the floor and a little of the square rim that holds the boot down.

As for the oil Ill try a thinner one next time. 90 I guess, I just thought being a fairly old car, thicker oil might help a bit (88 model).

Rod

MKPatrolGuy wrote:No, it will increase because it rolls the pinion down, not up.

mine rotates the back of diff up, so the angle of diff to tailshaft(is that pinion?) is straighter...

have you thought about adjustable upper arms they are cheapish and they can rotate your diff a little bit

bogged wrote:

MKPatrolGuy wrote:No, it will increase because it rolls the pinion down, not up.

mine rotates the back of diff up, so the angle of diff to tailshaft(is that pinion?) is straighter...

It shouldn't roll it up, because the radius arms roll the front of the diff down and the pinion up, when you lift the suspensiuon, taking away some of the Castor. The eccentric bushes roll the front of the diff back up and the pinion down to regain the correct Castor setting.

I've recently lifted my GQ shortie 4 inches skyward and have done things in steps as you have said.

As far as the Driveline Angles are concerned I opted for the DC jointed shaft from Gibsons Driveline in Newcaste NSW - Did a great Job I might add... fitted, balanced, greased, new coat of metallica grey funky looking paint for 790...that included ripping it off (Some D!ckhead at nissan torqued the fricking thing on REAL tight).

I then just grabbed some adj upper arms and rotated the diff back or pinion up whateva ya wanna say. Got rid of my 12mm Xmember spacers I had, I personally think these things are the Devil. No detectable vibrations or grinding noises at any given speed, I used to get a spine tingling grind at coast at aboot 115 clicks that has gone. I am happy with the thing. The shaft doesn't bind or wrap itself up when wheeling either.
In saying all of that I spent 790 + 330 on my driveline. Talk to that cheezy fellow he swears by his way

As far as castor goes. You would know quite readily by driving the thing if you have negative or less than factory castor ie; Shopping trolley. I got my castor measured when I wacked in some 3 degree bushes, and I still had negative 1. THese things need I think bout +2.5 - 3 degrees I belive. And besides you wanna use ya genuine rubber - more flex less noise.

So I wacked in 5.5 degree plates and now have * almost * factory castor. The impression I have been given is that any suspension changes you do to a LWB and then Go and do in a SWB the effects on the drivetrain and steering geometry are intensified. So prolly cutting-rotating and re-welding is the only way to go.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/

Have a read of what that yank website says bloke. Explains why ya Vibrate like ya doo. But you need to do something to ultimately fix this problem or things will fail.

my first post and quite long...

bogged wrote:

MKPatrolGuy wrote:No, it will increase because it rolls the pinion down, not up.

mine rotates the back of diff up, so the angle of diff to tailshaft(is that pinion?) is straighter...

Are you sure???