Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I decided to service my 1992 4runner 3.0v6 the other day so i started cleaning out the intake and decided the air flow meter needed a good clean down with carby clean etc. I then preceeded to remove the sensor from the airbox and removed the base plate to get into it properly. No issues so far. After i did this though i though i'd better just remove the plug and just check if theres anything in there that needs cleaning!

STUPID!!!!


Has anyone else made this mistake?

Anyhows, Dont do it, you tear some connections made only with a light weight foil. Needless to say it doesnt work any more but i have since found on the camry forums that it can be repaired (resoldered) and actually modified...

has anyone seen this mod before???

Im going to attempt it but only because i need to get into the guts of it to attempt to repair it.. Exchange one from repco is $350..

Will keep posted on developments.

For any vane-flap Toyota vehicle. 22RE's, 3S's, VZ blocks... And most other AFM vehicles.

This is a vane-flap air-flow meter. You slice the silicon glue off the top, and pry the black plastic top off Exposing the innards.



An AFM. It is not a MAF... They measure the VOLUME of airflow, by a flap, held closed by spring tension. On top of the flap is a small arm, which rotates along what essentially is a pointometer.

The ECU sends an exact voltage to the AFM, and reads the flap. It also reads a small air temperature sensor in the AFM housing. From this -> an AFM can accurately meter the MASS of airflow. (the important part!)

1) Reset the ecu - pull the EFI fuse for one nanosecond and replace it
2) Cut glue
3) Pry UP plastic top
4) PAINT THE STARTING COG
5) Rotote cog clockwise

3 clicks, 5 clicks, 7 clicks seem to be where people like. As soon as you get over the shock factor, most of the gain is 5-7 clicks.



You'll gain mid rpm range power. You'll also gain top rpm range power under a high load (i.e. top gear-top speed runs). Don't be surprised if you rev back to back in park and it's a tad slower from less fuel -> it will be noticeably faster on the street when there is a load on the engine.

Never heard of the mod but you shouldn't clean the afm with carby cleaner it's too corrosive use electrical contact cleaner instead.

Well positive results are good results.. As it turned out my original AFM was stuffed.. Couldnt get the contacts soldered together to get it working again so i managed to get a second hand/reco job from the states for $80 so bolted it up and the car ran again only that it had developed a new rough idle and slow response to the throttle.

So with tender hands and patience and experience on my side, i pried the black cap off and tried for round 2.

first i went 6 clicks clockwise, positive result.. 4 more clicks began running rough again, so i backed off 5 clicks back to 5 from standard and the truck is running better than ever before! I suspect the AFM from the states was running very rich and coughing and spluttering a little because of it. Now it seems to be all ironed out and running nice and smooth again.

Well worth the effort second time round.

Will lay off the Carby clean in future.. Thanks for the heads up!