Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i am just about to but a 80 series 91 gxl fulltime 4wd.

what i would like help on is it easy as to convert to part time.?

is it simple as just buying a set of freewheeling hubs and bolting them on.

sorry if this question has been asked already.

cheers for any reply or help in the right direction.

You could do that for a half arsed solution. you would need to run with the centre difflock engaged all the time

You can buy parttime conversion kits (Marks Adapters) around $500-600. This replaces the centre diff with a spool, centre difflock then engages 4wd when needed.

Do a search for more info, its definitely been covered heaps of times before

I would not do it without good reason, IMO they handle better and are safer in fulltime 4x4. I have personally had a situation where I avoided a near certain fatality on wet roads that I am sure I wouldn't have avoided with part time 4x4

Why do you want to go to part time 4x4?

you will see strong arguments for and against full time versus part time

Like has been said, its not worth doing unless u have a reason for it, such as front tailshaft vibs. Makes Fek all difference to fuel economy

THe main reason for going full time is to get rid of the driveline clunks.
Second would be drive line vibes with big lifts

80 series standard came with part time. If you part time you might have to change the wheel alignment.

You have to adapt your driving habits to suit the conversion. Not really any different from stepping out of a full time cruiser into a work falcon or ute or something anyway.

Installing the kit involves dismantling the transfter. Should cost 7-800 to pay someone to do it (who knows what they're doing)

Personally I like the full time. I changed out the cv's and flanges to help with the clunks. There is still some clunk. I bet it's in the front diff. That's more money to spend on it though, but a good excuse to throw in a locker

oldmate wrote:THe main reason for going full time is to get rid of the driveline clunks.

in most cases, it will cost less to fix the cause of the "clunks' than to go to part time 4x4

Mate just done his 100 and is real happy but Like said i'd rather the 4 wheels giving traction. My old mans DX 80 can step out like any rear drive car in the wet real easy.

cheers for the response all .
i have been researching all day
and pritty much comes to conclusion i might aswell leave it fulltime 4wd.
i suppose it will be a whole new driving experience then driving my hilux 4runner.

but at the moment it is only running on the front diff and won't go into 4wd.
haven't had a proper look yet but i was told there is some sort of pin that falls out and just needs pushing back in on the transfer case,
is this true?
i have had a quick research search and can't find much on this question?
should i start a new post?


or it the transfer case due for a rebuild?

Tonka tuff 4x4 wrote:should i start a new post?

Probably. I haven't heard of that problem myself. The only 4wd related problems I've known are with the centre diff lock not working. I've had 2 80's and when i bought both the centre diff lock didn't work on either. First was a dodgy earth, the second was simply unplugged (i assume to avoid accidentally locking it on road)

80's_delirious wrote:
in most cases, it will cost less to fix the cause of the "clunks' than to go to part time 4x4

Maybe. Depends on the car. On mine i replaced the cv's and flanges at a cost of 250. That got rid of alot of slop, but there is still a noticeable amount there. Seems to be mostly in the front diff. Can't see me fixing that for less than 500.

But still i'm with you, permanent 4wd is nice

How do you know it is only running on the front diff?

It is fulltime 4x4, the transfer case is always in four wheel drive. You can select Hi or Low range or Neutral, but it is always in 4x4, unless something is wrong.

If it is not getting drive to the rear wheels, the centre diff in the transfer case would have to be locked or the car would not move at all. You would see the orange diff lock light on the dash.

As for a pin in the transfer falling out stopping drive to the rear wheels, smells of BS to me.

80's_delirious wrote:How do you know it is only running on the front diff?

cos it felt funny one day when my brother was driving it and we dropped the clutch and only front wheels where spinning when in low/high range,

Tonka tuff 4x4 wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:How do you know it is only running on the front diff?

cos it felt funny one day when my brother was driving it and we dropped the clutch and only front wheels where spinning when in low/high range,

well tested.

thats because of the centre diff.
it will only drive to the wheels of least load.
lock the centre diff in and it drive both ends regarldless of load.

I went to part time because i didn't want to wear out my longfields. Used part time transfer case though, aisin hubs and (i think) hzj rear drive shaft.

Made no difference to fuel consumption and amplified the caster problem in the front created by the lift.

Worth it (as said previously) if you have a reason.

oldmate wrote: Installing the kit involves dismantling the transfter. Should cost 7-800 to pay someone to do it (who knows what they're doing)

drain oil, remove tail shaft. remove 2-3 covers, undo another 12 or so bolts(dont come off easy) pull gears out and press off a piece, press new piece on then re-asemble and fill up with new oil. took me well over 8 hours, prob 3 if i done it again. plus 1/2 hour for hubs

Tonka tuff 4x4 wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:How do you know it is only running on the front diff?

cos it felt funny one day when my brother was driving it and we dropped the clutch and only front wheels where spinning when in low/high range,

haha nice work mate. But thats what it will do under those circumstances

stilivn wrote:

oldmate wrote: Installing the kit involves dismantling the transfter. Should cost 7-800 to pay someone to do it (who knows what they're doing)

drain oil, remove tail shaft. remove 2-3 covers, undo another 12 or so bolts(dont come off easy) pull gears out and press off a piece, press new piece on then re-asemble and fill up with new oil. took me well over 8 hours, prob 3 if i done it again. plus 1/2 hour for hubs

I got quoted about $1000 from my local opposite lock store supplied and fitted.
Cheers mick

mick80 wrote:

stilivn wrote:

oldmate wrote: Installing the kit involves dismantling the transfter. Should cost 7-800 to pay someone to do it (who knows what they're doing)

drain oil, remove tail shaft. remove 2-3 covers, undo another 12 or so bolts(dont come off easy) pull gears out and press off a piece, press new piece on then re-asemble and fill up with new oil. took me well over 8 hours, prob 3 if i done it again. plus 1/2 hour for hubs

I got quoted about $1000 from my local opposite lock store supplied and fitted.
Cheers mick

Anyone doing this should give it a go by themselves, minimal skill level required. Will prob only save bout 300 bucks after oil and if you have to get those sockets to remove rounded bolts. Just ensure you use 6 point sockets and not 12.
If you do round any bolts just replace when you take the bearing to get pressed off and swapped. Plus if you have your own press. Get stuck fling me a pm with pics an i'll be happy to help. Kits has instructions

was it hard to press off? is it just a matter if putting it in the press getttin a copper rod and pressing it off?

dave89 wrote:was it hard to press off? is it just a matter if putting it in the press getttin a copper rod and pressing it off?

Its usually very easy

crankycruiser wrote:

dave89 wrote:was it hard to press off? is it just a matter if putting it in the press getttin a copper rod and pressing it off?

Its usually very easy

They should have a like button on this forum
Uuuuuussssuuuuaaaallllyyyy lol
I bet if I tried it it wouldn't come out lol
I'd rather pay Some one to do it I build houses and that's it.
Cheers mick

I have an 80 FT 4WD and was thinking of going P/T. Been told I can save fuel, wear on the tyres and front diff etc. (Mines an auto too)

So after reading this thread, its a waste of time or not fellas??

Where are the other threads on this subject? Have searched to no avail!!

do a search on LCOOL forum, this comes up fairly regularly

Its a waste of time if your only after fuel economy. I've never read about anyone measuring a change in economy by going parttime.

80's_delirious wrote:do a search on LCOOL forum, this comes up fairly regularly

Its a waste of time if your only after fuel economy. I've never read about anyone measuring a change in economy by going parttime.

To be honest not that worried about economy. But wear and tear on front end including tyres!!

The tires still go round and round with a part time kit!
I wore tires on my 105 full time as my landcruiser ute part time. Think driving style plays more here!

I drive Landcruisers all day, and if you think you can tell the difference in handling between fulltime 4WD and a part time in 2WD, you are driving way too fast.

I needed to use my brothers fulltime FZJ80 for a couple weeks, and at the same time we had an identical spec'd part time converted FZJ in at work, after driving about the only difference was the part time converted vehicle felt noticeably quicker up to speed, which surely would mean less fuel to do the same work due to less power being eaten by the front diff.

Also had my brothers twist the end of a CV off when the axle seized into the spindle on the highway, and both axles and drive flanges wearing enough for one side to completely lose drive in a couple of fulltime vehicles at work.

IMO the part time conversion is certainly worth the time and effort.

I don't agree ^^

I noticed my full time 105 handles better. And yep I drive fast.
St the end of the day if your that worried about fuel consumption buy an excel the gain going part time IF ANY wont be stuff all!

I agree with Evan, much rather fulltime to part time!

Wear is negligible and bigger all difference in fuel.

Changing my full time 80 to part time has been the worst thing i have ever done to my 80 series. I hated the way it drove compared to full time, and it amplified some minor front end problems to the point where they had to be addressed. Dont do it, i would love to go back.

FULL TIME FOR ME IT IS

evanstaniland wrote:I don't agree ^^

I noticed my full time 105 handles better. And yep I drive fast.
St the end of the day if your that worried about fuel consumption buy an excel the gain going part time IF ANY wont be stuff all!

Agreed.

If the dumb lady that pulled out in front of me in the wet knew it was fulltime 4x4 that prevented her death, she'd agree too