Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hello Mates, I have been exchanging email with the seller of this 1hz.....http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-jdm-part ... a-1hz.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It has approx 80,000kms and was pulled from a hzj79 mine truck in Canada.

I asked about the black spot next to the starter, but was replied that diesel burns black, which is not a satisfactory answer for me. Even though this is my first diesel, I know when there are marks on an engine, I must inspect more. Now looking at the fsm, the bottom of the cylinder block coincides with the charred spot.........could it be the gasket and blow by is escaping from there? Theres also the dip stick guide there, but oil isn't this dark. It is also charred on the back (2nd pic) Doubt its the starter. What is the hose above the starter for, is that the pcv hose? Last thing, on the exhaust side at the valve cover there are charred areas, is it the manifold gasket going out. Anyway, all in all, to you guys, for a 1hz with 2200 hours, how does it look? Btw, he told me the injection pump will need to be cleaned because they run bio......if running clean bio100, at 80kay would the pump need cleaning so soon?

Jonathan

Oil in diesel's gets black... and I think the black spot is just oil spilling out of the filter when been replaced.

The hose above the starter is just a heater hose that connects to the firewall tap.

The crap around the manifold/oil cap, again, just looks like spilt oil when oil changes were done.

I'd agree with UDM above, looks normal, and nothing I would worry about, it actually looks reasonably clean considering its a mine truck engine.

1HZs tend to soot up the oil, it will get absolutely black by the time an oil change is due, its normal for these engines.

as for the bio in the fuel pump, I would just change back to diesel and run it as it is and see if you have any issues. lots of guys in Oz run bio without issues

Thanks to both for your insight. The seller made a video of it running, and i am liking the sound of it...

When the engine arrives there are a couple things i will do before i put swap her in. BEB, timing belt, clean injectors........i know with 80kay its early, but i like to have elbow room....

I am determined to build the platform to accept a turbo, that will be as reliable as possible. tranny oil cooler, engine oil cooler, 4core radiator, 3" exhaust, etc. But before i ask anymore questions i got research to do.

While i am at it, can anyone direct me to any threads upgrading cooling system on the 1hz for turbo? Thanks

it actually looks reasonably clean considering its a mine truck engine.

Oh yea, the seller told me because of new emissions laws they pulled these out, with only 80kay, and stuck 3.3 cummins in the 79.......lucky me!!

are u in australia?

Throw a set of factory turbo pistons and rods in there while its out of the car.
For the few hundred dollars it will cost, It will save you ever having to replace cracked pistons.

Northside 4x4 wrote:Throw a set of factory turbo pistons and rods in there while its out of the car.
For the few hundred dollars it will cost, It will save you ever having to replace cracked pistons.

he cant do that, they are different engines.

If you want reliabilityfrom this engine with a turbo, fit the biggest intercooler you have space for. Fit an EGT/Pyro guage to monitor combustion temps and tune it and drive it accordingly. High EGTs is a killer for these engines.


x2 on not being able to just swap in pistons and rods, there is many more differences than just this to the factory turbo 1HD-T engines.

So sure are you?
The head is different, but thats it.
You can put turbo spec rods and pistons in there as I do it to every 1hz i rebuild.

Northside 4x4 wrote:So sure are you?
The head is different, but thats it.
You can put turbo spec rods and pistons in there as I do it to every 1hz i rebuild.

i sure aint giving you any engines to rebuild then lol

Are you seriously doubting that you can buy turbo spec pistons to put into the 1hz?

Maybe I shouldnt have said 1HD-T or Factory Turbo pistons... Yes I realise they are a DI motor and do have the comb chamber in the piston rather than the head.
You still can get Turbo Spec pistons (Without the hole in them) with a thicker crown on them and larger gudgeon's that mate to Factory Turbo or 1HD-T Rods, Or standard 1HZ Rods if you choose a thinner gudgeon size.

Northside 4x4 wrote:Throw a set of factory turbo pistons and rods in there while its out of the car.
For the few hundred dollars it will cost, It will save you ever having to replace cracked pistons.

Northside 4x4 wrote: You still can get Turbo Spec pistons (Without the hole in them) with a thicker crown on them and larger gudgeon's that mate to Factory Turbo or 1HD-T Rods, Or standard 1HZ Rods if you choose a thinner gudgeon size.

there is a huge difference here, without the full information, this would be disastrous for someone who read your first post and took it as complete information.

If someone took my remark and assembled the motor with pistons with a big hole in the middle of them....
Dont really see how it would be disastrous though, motor would loose quite a bit of compression, nothing damaging would happen however.

Yea i was curious how it would affect factory compression on the 1hz if you put 1hdt pistons in......the strokes are different arn't they?

Anyway, I am only going to run 8-10psi, that money spent on pistons i can go intercooler, and like i said i am going to do the whole shibang on cooling. Curious though you have a link to those pistons?

I heard the hzj75 4core radiator is best for turboed 1hz, what are your experiences with this?

are u in australia?

Nope, here in the deep south of the usa. I use to live in Norfolk Island though 20 yrs ago though. Good memories, I have thought of moving back, have a slight inclination towards you Aussies.

There is differences between old and new 1hz's? Only ones i knew of were the fact that later models had egr?

GettingDieseled - Its not so much boost that will do any damage, its the amount of fuel you run and what the vehicle will be used for.
Any kind of towing/hard yakka vehicle, it really is a must. Intercooler doesnt prevent the fact that the piston crowns are much thinner on 1hz pistons, which naturally lead to weak spots occurring when overheated.

See the problem with oil squirters under the piston is they cool extremely well. Sounds silly right? Hot/Cool/Hot/Cool/Hot/Cool do this to a thin piece of alloy and you will see what im getting at. The thicker the material the better the constant flow of oil is able to keep the temperature of the alloy closer to a constant temperature rather than up and down.

I would love to know what differences there are?
Pistons,rods, block, head, cam, timing belt, pump everything like that have had the same part numbers since the dinosaurs were around. Only been a handfull of superceeded parts and most of those are the compensator on the injector pump, and a few of the seals inside.

thanks mate. as if a 2001 motor is any different anyway. they will fit the same and there still a dirty olld 1hz. im not trying to rip anybody off. whats the point? its a brand new motor regardless. 10times stronger then standard

TECH ONLY!

State what you think the facts are & no slagging off at each other.

Northside 4x4 wrote:The thicker the material the better the constant flow of oil is able to keep the temperature of the alloy closer to a constant temperature rather than up and down.

Yup, its a material's heat capacity, basic chemistry. Would the combustion temperature decrease so great with an intercooler that stock pistons can run much greater boost?

Man seriously, facts please, i am newb here......

What exhaust tube sizes do you guys recommend to maximum flow without deafening me?

Anyway, the 1hz is on its way........woohoo!!!

Anybody here with a hzj80?

if it is turbo'd go with 3" mandrel bent exhaust, fit the longest braided flex you can fit between the engine pipe and the tail pipe sections. also fit the longest full flow straight through muffler you can fit in, it will help stop any droning, and wont reduce performance

GettingDieseled wrote:

Northside 4x4 wrote:The thicker the material the better the constant flow of oil is able to keep the temperature of the alloy closer to a constant temperature rather than up and down.

Yup, its a material's heat capacity, basic chemistry. Would the combustion temperature decrease so great with an intercooler that stock pistons can run much greater boost?

Man seriously, facts please, i am newb here......

What exhaust tube sizes do you guys recommend to maximum flow without deafening me?

Anyway, the 1hz is on its way........woohoo!!!

Anybody here with a hzj80?

3" is the go on those setups, but wont be a long way ahead of a 2.5" system unless your really winding the wick up with power.
The combustion temp is mainly based around how much fuel there is in there to burn.
So lower temps = more oxygen per revolution. This gives you the ability to give it more fuel whilst maintaining the same air to fuel ratio.
More boost = more oxygen per revolution etc...

Keep the thing around 20-22:1 (thats parts of air, to parts of fuel) at full boost and you will see 300K+ out of the motor, keep it at 18-19:1 full boost and you might get 100K. Thats the difference in lifespan between a few AFR point changes.
Anything less than that, and your guess is as good as mine.

In short, yes intercooling will allow it to handle more power safely.