Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey i have been working with an engineering compaby to come up with some NEW billet wheel spacers

aprrox cost will be under 200 ea at this stage ( the more interest the cheaper they can become I.E bulk buy )

they will come with all studs and nutts.

i have taken some pics let me know what you guys think !!!


cheers

What grade aluminium are they made from? And hurry up with the high steer mate.

OUTLAW565 wrote:What grade aluminium are they made from? And hurry up with the high steer mate.

billet steel ... as billet alloy is not strong enough to handle the load from larger size rubber people are running today

could you not make the studs like factory ones, ie, press in? would save some machining on the threads

or actually, are the marks in the stud holes just scores from being bored ? D:

Shadow wrote:could you not make the studs like factory ones, ie, press in? would save some machining on the threads

or actually, are the marks in the stud holes just scores from being bored ? D:

yes but then you have the price difrence between the nut and a stud,
also a stud is mroe readly avalible from an engineering shop if your break one as apposed to a stud and easy to change

NICE!!!
They'd have to be almost half the weight!

Mate they look the goods, Have you done testing on a 4wd if so was there any problems.

It would make it easier getting a socket onto the wheel nuts too
Instead of trying to get your socket out of the hole when tightening normal ones up.

will you be making them hub centric?

Mate $200 each is cheap for something with that much machine work in it.

I always though much of the strength in the wheel/hub interface came from friction between wheel/hub - the job of the studs being to force the surfaces together rather than take up the full force of the union (i.e. the studs should be only under tensile stress, not shear and/or bending). In this case you're cutting down on the contact area between the wheel and hub, hence reducing friction between wheel and hub - putting more load on the studs themselves.

What sort of bolt will you be supplying with the spacers and will it have the correct taper to suit individual vehicals?

But they sure look cool and it's possible i have no idea what i'm talking about.

That's actually a good call dog breath although some mags only have this much contact.

You would increase the pressure on the contact area - and some mags and steelies have about 30-40% of the contact area actually in contact anyway. Should still be alright...

I think they look great!

Top work!!

Nice machine work. But I have some reservations.

1. Stiffness. You've cut away so much metal that there's no direct load path any more.
2. Fatigue life. You've got a lot of internal sharp corners for fatigue cracks to start at.
3. Stud insertion depth. It looks like you're down to 1x thread depth.
4. Wheel centring boss. These take care of any overload, especially if nuts work loose. I don't see any on your spacers.

Have you got an engineer to do any stress testing on these?

What is the weight saving? and in the scheme of things does it really make much difference saving ? (1kg ?) per wheel when your bead locked 37'' tyre weighs ~60-70kg per corner and your racing at comparably low speeds.

ROH have basically same design on there alloy wheels so should not be a problem
but i am no engineer
nice machine work
Cheers
Gordon

hi mate would u do a set for a f250 8 stud?

hmm interesting design, you done any FEA on it ? I think if you do you will be seeing some red .....

As others have said you may want to looking into the depth of your stud holes and what length kneeling you will have to deal with, looks pretty shallow.

I am no engineer, so I am just asking...



Does this very thin bit of steel (marked in arrows) really add much strength to the whole set up? The reason I ask is that if I picture the same item with that very thin-walled part removed, it starts to seem a bit iffy in terms of the amount of steel going from the old studs to the new studs. Especially when you look at the "inside" image, those thin-walled bits create an impression that the overall structure is really robust, but it is an illusion if those thin bits are really just sort of leftover metal and don't add strength.

It's a genuine question, I am not bagging the item I am just wondering. I guess the best test would be to thrash the shit out of them in the wild on a heavy 4WD

Nice job, but I would definitely be going with press fit studs I think........ I dont trust threaded studs in this app, due to the chance loose wheel nuts rocking the stud around and wearing the threads....... just feel safer with a big stud head having to pull through the hub to get free.
It would be a simple mod though....definitely like the idea os less unsprung weight.

chimpboy wrote:I am no engineer, so I am just asking...

Does this very thin bit of steel (marked in arrows) really add much strength to the whole set up? The reason I ask is that if I picture the same item with that very thin-walled part removed, it starts to seem a bit iffy in terms of the amount of steel going from the old studs to the new studs. Especially when you look at the "inside" image, those thin-walled bits create an impression that the overall structure is really robust, but it is an illusion if those thin bits are really just sort of leftover metal and don't add strength.

It's a genuine question, I am not bagging the item I am just wondering. I guess the best test would be to thrash the shit out of them in the wild on a heavy 4WD

My uneducated guess is it will stop alot of flex if left there and not removed.

Grab a bit of paper, sit something on top with it flat.

put a small curve on the same piece of paper and it has a better chance of supporting said object.

Just don't try putting a wheel on your curved bit of paper.

Harb wrote:Nice job, but I would definitely be going with press fit studs I think........ I dont trust threaded studs in this app, due to the chance loose wheel nuts rocking the stud around and wearing the threads....... just feel safer with a big stud head having to pull through the hub to get free.
It would be a simple mod though....definitely like the idea os less unsprung weight.

why not use cap screw screwed in from the back? then they are threaded in and have a large head to pull through

Sorry about the hijack.

84sloth wrote:hi mate would u do a set for a f250 8 stud?

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