Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I think this might be a stupid question but here goes

Went out a couple of weekends ago and was wheeling okay for the first couple of tracks, then there was a sound coming from the front hub/bearings, the sound went after I unlocked the hubs so didn't think it was the bearings as I thought the sound would still be there.

Anyways I tried to go up hell hill and got up the first step ok, stopped a couple of small steps below the good bit and when I tried to just get going again, a massive bang and seemed like I was in 2wd as I had heaps of trouble just getting up the step, originally it sounded like I did both cv's but checking them they seemed okay.

Pulled it down today and checked, cvs ok, but the bearings were real loose, I thought that I had left the spacer out as I had read that this could cause it to unlock the hubs but that was still there, so here is the question... Can the fact that the bearings were soo loose could this be the cause of the hub issue, or should I still be looking for the problem, ie diff problem like spider geers or pinion issues?

Sorry for the long post but has me stumped!!

Cheers

Ash

Welcome to the club! That is Patrol's weak link: The free wheel lucking hubs. Change them for a set of Superior engineering billet 4140 free wheeling hubs and be done with it. That's what I did after breaking just about everything that exists...

the only hugs i have hurt of having a problem are the Auto hubs coming out. I have never had a manual free wheeling hubs ever coming out on me

MyGQ wrote:the only hugs i have hurt of having a problem are the Auto hubs coming out. I have never had a manual free wheeling hubs ever coming out on me

NissanGenuine manual hubs (broken), Superior's 4140 (assembled):

See, they do break, that's why they make replacements (upgrades)

the spring underneath the teeth causes this to chatter even when dienguaged dont know if that is you problem

Also why the hell would you want to make the CV the weak link.. its heaps easier / cheaper / fater to undo 6 bolts and change a hub rather then taking the whole swivel assembaly off

With the manual hubs you need to make sure there isn't too much grease packed in as its all spring loaded and the grease can build up and stop it engaging/disengaging properly. Thats what i have found before anyway.

macneil wrote:the spring underneath the teeth causes this to chatter even when dienguaged dont know if that is you problem

Also why the hell would you want to make the CV the weak link.. its heaps easier / cheaper / fater to undo 6 bolts and change a hub rather then taking the whole swivel assembaly off

X2 must be big shock loads to break the hubs eg. big tyres + high revs. could loose bolts, uneven tightened bolts or even over tightened bolts be a factor???

A.R.T Racing wrote:With the manual hubs you need to make sure there isn't too much grease packed in as its all spring loaded and the grease can build up and stop it engaging/disengaging properly. Thats what i have found before anyway.

X2 I bought a gu ute that had never really had the hubs locked the hubs made a clunking/ chattering noise every now and then so I pulled them off, de greased them and lightly greased the moving parts and never had a problem since.

auto hubs can stay with ZD30's.... in the bin.

Not that complicated, just add a set of Boggers 15/38.5 16LT, ARB, 3.74 transfer and 4.625 diffs to a TB45 and hard ass terrain and anything can give. Th Nissan manuals are good with small tires or without the ARB on a bigger tire, if you add these two, they will give. I no longer have that problem thought, once I put on the Superior´s hubs. I just kept using these untill they gave, keeping the reinforced ones in my glove compartment. As I said, my problems were solved a while back, I was just adding to the thread.
As far as the weak link part. A very good point was made, one that I also considered, which is why I put on cromoli CV´s and axle (Cal´s), no problems there either.
Sorry if I made my previous post confussing, I was just exposing the rout I went with my GU.

JoseM wrote:Not that complicated, just add a set of Boggers 15/38.5 16LT, ARB, 3.74 transfer and 4.625 diffs to a TB45 and hard ass terrain and anything can give. Th Nissan manuals are good with small tires or without the ARB on a bigger tire, if you add these two, they will give. I no longer have that problem thought, once I put on the Superior´s hubs. I just kept using these untill they gave, keeping the reinforced ones in my glove compartment. As I said, my problems were solved a while back, I was just adding to the thread.
As far as the weak link part. A very good point was made, one that I also considered, which is why I put on cromoli CV´s and axle (Cal´s), no problems there either.
Sorry if I made my previous post confussing, I was just exposing the rout I went with my GU.

I thought your post was fine mate, just another valid opinion.. all good, play on.


p.s does ARB=air locker?

p.p.s is there a build thread or something on this panamanian GU? sounds like its a bit of a weapon.