Outer Limits 4x4 Board

"Just out of interest, those with lift kits, what brand are they, and do you find noticable improvement off road?" - KIWI


I've got the Tough-dog 2" lift from Opposite Lock. Wasnt really the suspension itself that made all the difference, but the lift. When I first got the Jack it was stock standard with 240/70x16 tyres and it used to get hung up all over the place. Just the 2" of lift made so much difference.
Offcourse Ive got the T'bar lift up front with very little travel, but hopefully the swaybar disco should improve it. The shocks themselves are pretty big bore so are strong without having huge travel. Had this setup for about 2 and a half years with no probs at all, but want to upgrade this year. Thinking about RS9000s with the incab control and no swaybar on rear. I'd be interested to see how Bitsamissin (Frank) goes with this as I think he is going this way.

Dave, Hows your rear travel with the RS9000s and the swaybar disco'd?


Noel

I've got lifted Jack springs from Pedders and RS5000s. These have made a massive difference to the Frontera. These are very low standard. Just cranked up the torsion bars in the front, so no travel (we've all heard the story) Rear travel even with the swaybar connected is quite good for this type of setup.....

RS9000s would be nice, not as bonejaring as the 5000s...

I did the Chris Parosi lift. 2" springs in the back from Pedders and a t-bar tweak and standard shocks. 31" Hankook MT's on steeel rims. It made the biggest difference to the vehicle. Absolutely outstanding. I also did the same on Steve Rigneys rig in about 2.5 hours. Dead bloody easy mate.
CJ

I had a 2000 SE Frontera, in which I had a Series2000 lift which gave 65mm, and the front end was wound up to match. Great lift, the springs were a bit stiff when empty and the Series2000 shocks were pretty ordinary. I didn't have the front end aligned after I did the lift, and it produced a bit of understeer, but the setup was a lot better than std. The big problem with getting travel out of the rear in the Frontera was the fuel tank is in the way of the rear trailing arms preventing further travel, but if you could have this modified you could do some awsome stuff. On the 2000 model anyway you can't really get any more travel because of this.

Slunnie wrote:The big problem with getting travel out of the rear in the Frontera was the fuel tank is in the way of the rear trailing arms preventing further travel, but if you could have this modified you could do some awsome stuff. On the 2000 model anyway you can't really get any more travel because of this.

I remember some of the Ozzuzu guys discussing this a while back and I think the problem was fixed...

Noel

Ah, good stuff.

Was this a factory fix or how did they modify it?

Oh, sorry. getting back to your question, the improvements off road were mostly clearance and stability related. But OA a lot better than std.

Suspension Vs Body - Which do u prefer and what has had the best results???? some ppl have told me its just as good to get the std suspension reset and u can achieve great results????

Not that i am getting mine done any time soon i have decided to backpack overseas this year so the car is going to have to go on hold. When i get back i hope to start a new project, bout 92, 93 SWB Jacka!!!!

I think a body lift would be a big advantage. Cos by lifting the body and fitting taller rubber ground clearence is improved everywhere and there is still some flex in the front. Not that flex in the front would be much different anyway.....

Spendin another 2c!!!! *HEHE*

I agree with Dazz as the main benefit for a body lift would be to fit bigger tyres and avoid rubbing. This would obviously not affect ride all that much apart from the subtle change in centre of gravity. I think its a good option with IFS vehicles so to limit the need to crank the TB's to excessive levels to get the same effect. I think the key to the decision is where the vehicle is constantly bottoming out. If its under-carriage components like crossmembers and protection plates then suspension lift would be the go. If its diffs then its tyres (and bodylift). Bodylift would definately be the cheapest way to lift if you had the necessary equipment and knowhow...

Noel

Westoztroopa wrote:

Slunnie wrote:The big problem with getting travel out of the rear in the Frontera was the fuel tank is in the way of the rear trailing arms preventing further travel, but if you could have this modified you could do some awsome stuff. On the 2000 model anyway you can't really get any more travel because of this.

I remember some of the Ozzuzu guys discussing this a while back and I think the problem was fixed...

Noel

Can any of you other Frontera guys remember this? I had a quick look through the Ozzuzu posts and couldnt find it...

Noel

The fuel tank to LH upper control arm clearence is a problem with big lifts (3"+ not real massive*L*) But at this height there is no flex in the front at all so it's no real problem. Mine has hit the fuel tank a couple of times when I disconected the rear sway bar. But no real damage...

Doug's trailing arm hits the tank *just* at full flex as the 2001 model changed slightly in the rear suspension, the 99-00 cars hit the bumpstop on the rhs side before clipping the corner of the tank. Calmini do a bent trrailing arm but don't sell it seperately and they are $$$. Wizard performance who do a heap of stuff for Patrols here in QLD offered to make me one but as I haven't hit it yet I'm yet to take up the offer. I want to go hgher in the rear as the King springs have sagged but just haven't had the time to go and have new springs put in. Dobinson do a taller one that I was going to trial, once they are in I may have the trailing arm made up. If they keep closing tracks I won't have to worry, I han't get full flex on bitumen or the beach which is all that'll be left.

My bump stops ain't as big as they used to be!!!! *HEHE*

Grinder is my friend!!!!! :evil: :evil: :evil:

Scott good to see you mate.
Yeah the bent arms in the rear, the trick is to lift the suspension and move the range of travel further from the body, therefore;

Rear,
Lift 3-4"
Install the bent pitman arms so they don't hit tank and t/fore stop longer downtravel.
Install longer shocks to get the longer travel and increase bumpstop size so Shock isn't used as bumpstop.
Lengthen Brake lines etc.

Front.
3" max lift.
This gives limited down travel, but if you have a locker or lockrite in the front it is not too much of a problem.
Calmini lower A-arms allow correct angle of ball joint on stub axle and allow for correct toe in/out.
Lower diff an inch to take strain off CV's, easy to do.

All been done by the Yanks and plenty of info on 4x4wire and Calmini site.

If I don't get a Nissan I still might try it all.
CJ