Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok i have bought a central locking kit from brisbane car sound only need the1 actuator coz my patrol already has central locking but the driver door is just a micro switch that activiates the other doors.

with the mongoose alarm there are the trigger wires which i assume you only connect if you want to.

then there are the central locking wires on the alarm module

orange unlock no
blue unlock com
brown unlock nc
black ground when armed
white lock nc
green lock com
purple lock no
yellow 2 stage unlock

and on the central locking unit there are only 4 inputs
a positive trigger 1. +lock input
2. + unlock input
b negative trigger 1 -lock input
2 - unlock input

how do i connect the alarm modul and the centrel locking unit ????
or is there away to by pass the central locking unit and whire the actuator straight to the alarm module ????????

alllllll info will be greatly appreciated

You can actually just fit a solenoid to the driver's door (slave type will do) and wire it up using two relays (one to lock it , the other to unlock it) and control that from your alarm module. That way when the alarm module sends out the lock or unlock pulse, the relevant relay will provide a voltage pulse to the solenoid and drive it the required direction to lock/ unlock the driver's door.

Because the driver's door already has the microswitch wired into it for the factory central locking your other doors will do the same thing. It saves you trying to work out the wiring for your factory loom.

You could do a similar set up using the central locking controller you've got- or return it and buy two relays. I've posted the wiring diagrams on how to wire up such a system on here before- try searching and you'll probably find them.

what was the price of the alarm unit?

robbie the alram was 199 tripple phase immobiliser

ok guys what is the best way to wire the trigger for the alarm, such as the doors, bonnet, etc ???? i have found my door switch wire, pink and black
and ground is black

is it just a matter of connecting the door + triger wire to the door switch + (pink and black) and the - to the ground ?????

is the best place to connect them in behind the fuse block or just tap into the wire somewhere ???

You may want to read my reply on Overlander re the central locking set up someone recommended.....

You need to hook up the door switch wire that gets shorted to earth with the door open. It should all be explained in the alarm installation instructions, along with not hooking up the alarm module directly to a central locking solenoid!!

murcod wrote:You may want to read my reply on Overlander re the central locking set up someone recommended.....

You need to hook up the door switch wire that gets shorted to earth with the door open. It should all be explained in the alarm installation instructions, along with not hooking up the alarm module directly to a central locking solenoid!!

so if i ground the - door trigger wire and splice the + trigger wire with the active black pink wire on the door swith that should work ???

Have you got the instructions for the alarm?

I take it from what you've written that alarm has got two door trigger inputs? One for a negative input for an earthing type switch (most vehicles) and another for a switch that provides +12V?

If so, then you should only need to hook up one wire- the negative trigger one to the door switch wire that gets earthed. The other one should be insulated and left unattached.

It sounds like you're a bit out of your depth attempting this sort of job? Be careful (particularly with the immobilisation side of things) or you'll fry either the alarm or your car's electrics.

murcod, yeh i am a little out of my depth but i am having fun drowning heheh.

thanks for that info on the switch i didnt realise i only have to use 1 of the wires.

as for the immobilisation..i thought that would be easier the immobiliser wires each are paired (3 x 2pair of wires)
so all i need to do is breack the circuit with the immobiliser wire...and i assume that inside the alarm is like a switch that reconnects the circuit....
say for example the starter motore circuit...all i do is disconnect the wire from the starter motor and replace it with one of the wires of the immobiliser..then connect the other wire from the immobiliser to the wire i took off the starter motor...???????

If the alarm only has single point immobilistation that's correct. However you need to be careful that the alarm's relay can handle the current of the starter motor solenoid. The starter motor also isn't a very good place to immobilise the engine as it's very easy to bypass. In a manual you can just push start the vehicle...

You should be looking at disabling the EFI system for a late model petrol engine or some similar circuit for a carby petrol or diesel. Disabling the power to the coil is another common one that's easily bypassed.

You need to be creative..... this is where factory wiring diagrams are invaluable.

Make sure you don't put the disabling wires close to the ignition switch too- that's the first place thieves will look. All the wiring needs to blend in with the factory looms and the main alarm module should be well hidden up high in the dash.

yeh i thought that connecteing wires in behind the ignition barrel will be a little easy to find that why i want to wire it in behind the fuse block... might look a bit more conspicuous...

i have a 96 gq patrol 2.8lt deisel turbo...so ill prolly immobilise the fuel solinoid... ignition...and not sure what else yet..

i have the manual and i can read schematics so its just a matter of finding a place to wire and to hide it

for those that know alarms, i have the mongoose m80 series

i have installed the alarm and triggers and all seems to work fine
the only thing i am yet to install is the immobiliser,

the immobilsier is a 3 phase so it has 3 sets of wires
each set is made up of FOUR wires ( two in each pair, the two are joined buy a bit of rubber)

i am not sure how to wire in the four wires ?? is it like that just so you can split the circuit a few times along the wire ??? or do i simply solder both wires to the one point and the other two together are the other point ?

There are two pairs of wires for each immobilisation relay to handle the current. The smaller wires are used on black wired alarms so it's harder to tell which wires are the immobilisation ones.

ok so i just keep the paired wires together ? then ?

if it was that simple why not just use a bigger guage wireing instead ??