Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys. Upgrading the rear and maybe front hub studs on my 80. From 8mm to 10mm studs and 6 10mm dowls. Who in brisbane can do the machining for the 10mm cone washers?
And do I really need to use the cone washers?
Or can I just use aftermarket high tensile bolts with a blank at the end?
Im in bris

Anyone done it and can recommend? Or advice.

All the 10mm conversions I have seen have simply used 100 series 10mm cone washes / studs and yes you will need the cone washes if you want to do it properly. As for who I would trust in Brisbane .... you tell me ... lol

Hope that helped at little ..... Interested in how you go as it seems to be something only realy needed when you go really big tyres.

yogi

yogi_td80 wrote:All the 10mm conversions I have seen have simply used 100 series 10mm cone washes / studs and yes you will need the cone washes if you want to do it properly. As for who I would trust in Brisbane .... you tell me ... lol

Hope that helped at little ..... Interested in how you go as it seems to be something only realy needed when you go really big tyres.

yogi

Na, 35's and there are fine, apart from the fact they have stripped the thread inside the hub from over tightening. I would rather just do it and know they will be fine. 2 are stripped and 1 has snapped (years of dodge mechanics) and it still handles 35's fine.

Its the cone washer part that worries me. Drilling and tapping is easy.

the 80 series hub flanges are smaller diameter than 105 series. If you use the 10mm cone washers, you wont have a lot of material left at the edge of the flanges. Not sure if this is an issue or not.

You can remove the studs and re-drill to use 10mm (1.25mm pitch) 40mm long socket head capscrews

80's_delirious wrote:the 80 series hub flanges are smaller diameter than 105 series. If you use the 10mm cone washers, you wont have a lot of material left at the edge of the flanges. Not sure if this is an issue or not.

You can remove the studs and re-drill to use 10mm (1.25mm pitch) 40mm long socket head capscrews

Hey i was wondering where the extra meat for 10mm studs came from on a 100 series. So that means an 80 series wheel rim won't fit over a 100 series hub? (stud pattern aside of course)

I've been wondering if a way around the issue is to drill out the bottom of the cone hole to 10mm leaving a tiny step at the bottom, then just using 10mm cone washers and the SHCS. It would mean that the cone washer isn't exactly at the base of the axle flange, but it would be pretty close and still a tight fit.

Also for the OP, you won't be able to get 6 x dowels in the front as the hub itself has cutouts around it's circumference that don't allow the fitting of the 4 extra studs. DRS was looking to fit the trailgear flanges with the 6 dowel conversion but couldn't fit it to his 80 series hubs. There is a possibility of doing it with a mix and match of parts from a 60 series axle hub, but you would have to look at the compatibility and dimensions of all the parts.

rockcrawler31 wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:the 80 series hub flanges are smaller diameter than 105 series. If you use the 10mm cone washers, you wont have a lot of material left at the edge of the flanges. Not sure if this is an issue or not.

You can remove the studs and re-drill to use 10mm (1.25mm pitch) 40mm long socket head capscrews

Hey i was wondering where the extra meat for 10mm studs came from on a 100 series. So that means an 80 series wheel rim won't fit over a 100 series hub? (stud pattern aside of course)

I've been wondering if a way around the issue is to drill out the bottom of the cone hole to 10mm leaving a tiny step at the bottom, then just using 10mm cone washers and the SHCS. It would mean that the cone washer isn't exactly at the base of the axle flange, but it would be pretty close and still a tight fit.

Also for the OP, you won't be able to get 6 x dowels in the front as the hub itself has cutouts around it's circumference that don't allow the fitting of the 4 extra studs. DRS was looking to fit the trailgear flanges with the 6 dowel conversion but couldn't fit it to his 80 series hubs. There is a possibility of doing it with a mix and match of parts from a 60 series axle hub, but you would have to look at the compatibility and dimensions of all the parts.

Im not sure if the rims would fit over the hub. cant remember the dimensions. 105 series axle flange is 5-6mm larger diameter than the 80s, but I think from memory the 80 hub has a slightly large diameter shoulder at the wheel mating surface than at the axle flange

Driveline Services at Archerfield

80's_delirious wrote:the 80 series hub flanges are smaller diameter than 105 series. If you use the 10mm cone washers, you wont have a lot of material left at the edge of the flanges. Not sure if this is an issue or not.

You can remove the studs and re-drill to use 10mm (1.25mm pitch) 40mm long socket head capscrews

Ok. So 1.25mm course pitch bolt with a 8mm or less solid blank bit at the hexhead. Ive just measured the hole size on the flange and the outter hole is 12mm. So why cant I just drill it out for a 12mm bolt then? And give the blank a more solid connection.

TheBigBoy wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:the 80 series hub flanges are smaller diameter than 105 series. If you use the 10mm cone washers, you wont have a lot of material left at the edge of the flanges. Not sure if this is an issue or not.

You can remove the studs and re-drill to use 10mm (1.25mm pitch) 40mm long socket head capscrews

Ok. So 1.25mm course pitch bolt with a 8mm or less solid blank bit at the hexhead. Ive just measured the hole size on the flange and the outter hole is 12mm. So why cant I just drill it out for a 12mm bolt then? And give the blank a more solid connection.

10mm x 1.25pitch is a metric fine thread (not coarse, 10mm bolts for general engineering would have 1.5pitch) 10mm x 1.25pitch will be a little harder to find

you would need to use socket head cap screws NOT bolts. SHCS are grade 12? The hex head on a 10mm high tensile bolt will be too large, the wheel centre wont go over the hub as the bolt heads will hang out beyond the edge of the flange. Socket head cap screws will not hang out past the flange. If you use a 40mm cap screw it will have an un-threaded shoulder on it, 30mm will be full thread

on an 80series hub, drilling and tapping to 10mm bolts will reduce the material left surrounding the cap screw or studs at the outer surface of the hub, 12mm bolts would be too big a compromise to strength of the hub.

cone washers are supposed to help locate the flange, and also give a better clamping force between the flange and the hub.

I used 80 series axles in my 105 series diffs, I had to drill out the holes in the flanges to 10mm (and offfset them at the same time) I have just used socket head cap screws, no cone washers.
At some point I will have the flanges machined to take the larger cone washers. I will still use the SHCS.

10mm x 40mm x 1.25 should look like this

price the cones and studs as a kit I just went to Bursons and bought 12 of them easy as and the thread is 10x 1.25 my

I have an engineering business and know it would pay to buy them not make them but thats only 2 cents