Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guy's I was wondering if there is anyway to strengthen a 60 series diff further than just fitting a set of 30 spline chromo axles and cv's. I recently broke a 30 spline cv inner star and sheared the stub axle without doing anything beyond what the axle should be capable of handling.
I am running standard crownwheel and pinions and would of thought they would break first but no they are still fine.

What brand of chromoly CV's are you using? Strange that you broke both the stub and the star, one would think it'd be one or the other?

I think this thread would get closed pretty quick if I started naming specific manufacturers products but they weren't bobby's

troopy94 wrote:they weren't bobby's

There's the problem and solution

I have enquired about changing to them but I seriously doubt that they will be alot stronger than what I already have as I have seen quite a few of them broken aswell.

You can break anything if you try hard enough.
To reduce the breakages something has to change ... axle/cv combo, tyres, driving style, etc.

The problem is that I'm not trying to break it I try to drive gently and prefer to crawl a hard secton of track than just rely on throttle. The zook runs 38x12.5 tsl swampers and weighs around 1650 kg and I'd like to change to a 40inch comp spec tyre but I'm worried things will just break more often.
I'd really like to know how the guy's who run large tyres on cruiser diffs make them survive

troopy94 wrote:The problem is that I'm not trying to break it I try to drive gently and prefer to crawl a hard secton of track than just rely on throttle. The zook runs 38x12.5 tsl swampers and weighs around 1650 kg and I'd like to change to a 40inch comp spec tyre but I'm worried things will just break more often.
I'd really like to know how the guy's who run large tyres on cruiser diffs make them survive

Driving style.

Here's the best piece of advice I got from StrangeRover when I was a competitor in WE Rock..."You really need to learn how to wheel your rig without breaking it."

Our buggy was running 60 series diffs with Longfield 30/30s in the front and McNamara axles in the back. Tyres were comp spec Mickey Ts in 37" and 60kg of water inside them. ZERO breakages.

That is some very good advice and I normaly do drive to try and conserve the vehicle but I want to bring it over to have a go at tufftruck but I don't want to spend half the time fixing it in the pits.
Basicaly the way I see it at the moment I either drive gently wherever possible,find some stronger diffs to put under it or lastly build a lighter car with less power

what are the specs on the units you have been breaking?

From the longfields site

"Longfields new 30 spline chromoly super set is the worlds strongest axle for Toyota's.
They are made out of 4340 chromoly and 300M material. They allow up to 40 degrees of turning radius and have a consistant breaking point of 8900-9000 foot pounds of torque."

I havent seen any other aftermarket units that have a consistant breaking point that is higher.

Ie Dirty 30's

"The average failure rate was consistently at 8500 ft. lbs. of applied torque at a 30 degree angle"

I'm not sure about track assassin sets.


I've got longfields, done some stupid things and never had an issue on 35''s

That conferms what I was saying before that even if I use longfieds it isn't much of a strength increase over what I am already using but the warranty would be alot better than the current setup

Maybe its time to step up to stronger diffs then or changing something else, setup or driving style.

Longs are the only way too go without stepping up too a D60 or Mog's or some sort of hybrid.

Long's will break BUT he will replace them and they take alot too break.

A good diff would be a Bubs Custom housing that has 60's long's with a GQ centre.

I have Chromoly Axles and CV's in a GQ Hi pinion and have done this too a CV -

80 series longs are physically larger, maybe worth speaking with longfield to see if they offer a strength advantage.

hulsty wrote:80 series longs are physically larger, maybe worth speaking with longfield to see if they offer a strength advantage.

depends if he wants the 6 shooter knuckles too

troopy94 wrote:I think this thread would get closed pretty quick if I started naming specific manufacturers products but they weren't bobby's

Why would this thread be closed.?????
I have said iv broken plenty of Longfields on here before... I have also broke 30 spline axles which werent longfields , and rhett says his broken dirty thrithys to.. so nameing the brand only makes people aware of whats out there...

Longfiled 30 splines are good but are breakable too... I did one this yr at tuff truck.. but thats running 42s v8 twin cases and jumping under full throttle... ...

As previously stated everything is breakable.. even Danas or Mogs..

I have broken dirty thirtys but I have been happy with the run I have had from them. I will continue to run them. Every thing breaks with what we do to them. I have a fairly light car but social driving I beat it hard and it usually all holds up.

I do realise that everything will break if you try hard enough it's just that I feel I have been let down by this product and that it hasn't lived up to my expectations. Like I have already said I am normaly a fairly sedate driver with some mechanical sympathy and are running very old hard tyres which are lacking in traction compared to the sticky compound tyres most guy's seem to be running now.
I am having no issues with the standard knuckles and even the standard ring and pinions are fine.

I'm guessing you bought them brand new/unused not 2nd hand.

What brand are they mate.. You may find that there is others out there in the same boat as you....

yes they were brand new dirty 30's that have done one comp and about 10 social drives.
This is the moment when it broke just to give you an idea of what I was driving at the time

is the diff housing straight? just a passing thought...might be causing some strain on the axle/cv?

Sometimes it not about what you were doing when they break. Its what you done for the for the last drives that does the damage

troopy94 wrote:yes they were brand new dirty 30's that have done one comp and about 10 social drives.

Mate smashed a brand new dirty 30 in a freshly rebuilt truck on 37 treaps on it's 2nd drive. He replaced it with Longs and hasn't had an issue since.

Thankyou everyone for their advice and comments I'm hoping I don't turn this into a dirty30 vs longfield debate I was more curious to find out if I was expecting too much from this product and if so what could be a reasonable alternative. I guess the part that I'm not very impressed about is the fact I have sunk over 4k into a set of diffs that don't fill me with alot of confidence.

troopy94 wrote:Thankyou everyone for their advice and comments I'm hoping I don't turn this into a dirty30 vs longfield debate I was more curious to find out if I was expecting too much from this product and if so what could be a reasonable alternative. I guess the part that I'm not very impressed about is the fact I have sunk over 4k into a set of diffs that don't fill me with alot of confidence.

From all Dirty's that i have know that break.. they always come good with there warranty.. .. ..
If it makes you feel any better I broke 2 inner alxes from Longfields in 3 drives.. same axle twice.. my tally iof broken longfields in the past 9months is.. 2x 80 series CV's, 2x inner alxes, 1x 30 spline CV's... So longfield still break as well...

I also understand your point on the amount of money sunk into diffs.. iv done the same.. but i finally got sick of breaking alxes, cv's... and sold them off and bought a set of unimogs.. hopefully they should hold together for a little longer...

dank wrote:is the diff housing straight? just a passing thought...might be causing some strain on the axle/cv?

I've always wondered why people claim this will put extra strain on the cv? Surely any slight angle caused by the bend would be negligible when compared to steering angles? And at the diff end it'd be more likely to damage sun gears or side bearings than the inner axle...?

If you talk to the guys at locktup they have alwys told me Dirty 30s are great for lighter rigs and anything up to 35s. If you are a big rig or running bigger then 35s get longs.

V.W.Dave wrote:If you talk to the guys at locktup they have alwys told me Dirty 30s are great for lighter rigs and anything up to 35s. If you are a big rig or running bigger then 35s get longs.

Dave ... Locktup dont even sell Dirty thirtys anymore they went to Track Assasins and they recommend them to 37's.. So far im the only person to have broken a set of them and that was at TTC this yr...hence they recommend them for 37s not 42s .... they still warrant dirty thirtys to those who bought them from them but no longer sell them..

macarthur 4x4 wrote:

V.W.Dave wrote:If you talk to the guys at locktup they have alwys told me Dirty 30s are great for lighter rigs and anything up to 35s. If you are a big rig or running bigger then 35s get longs.

Dave ... Locktup dont even sell Dirty thirtys anymore they went to Track Assasins and they recommend them to 37's.. So far im the only person to have broken a set of them and that was at TTC this yr...hence they recommend them for 37s not 42s .... they still warrant dirty thirtys to those who bought them from them but no longer sell them..

Well it hs been like 9 months since I spoke to them about it. Either way i am on 37s and looking to go to 40s so its longs for me.