Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Can someone tell me if I can convert 2001 mits challenger to manual free wheeling hubs? and does anyone know wich model to use?

how many spline are they?

Give this a read noelb

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewt ... 8&t=107616" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Moony.

I CHALLENGE THEE wrote:Give this a read noelb

http://www.4wdaction.com.au/forum/viewt ... 8&t=107616" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Moony.

Rather not sign up there, care to Tonka here?

Edit: r e p o s t is edited out :S

I thought i'd finally do a write up on this as I know of a few that have had this issue since I fixed mine.

This is a permanent fix to the all too common,”Flashing 4wd Light” on the dash of our Challengers.It can be due to a multitude of things,Faulty Vacuum Solenoids,Faulty sensors or switches on either the Transfer case or Front Diff,Vacuum leaks in the system or as it was in my case,a combination of a faulty Diff sensor and a Leaking Front Diff Vacuum Actuator.This solution will solve any of these problems for good for a minimal outlay and give you a more versatile system with increased longevity.

You will need basic tools such as spanners and 1/2" drive sockets,circlip pliers,allen keys,screwdrivers and preferably a welder (or access to one or you will need to get a fab shop to do a very basic weld for you).

Firstly,go to your local 4wd shop and order a set of AVM Free Wheeling hubs (to suit Gen 1 / 2 Pajero as these fit the Challenger) or get a some 2nd hand factory Pajero hubs.I got the Heavy Duty hubs from ARB and cost me about $220 from memory.I think the standard ones can be had for less than $200.Remove the existing front hubs and store them somewhere should you choose to revert back to the original setup at a later date (or if you break a hub).Fit your new AVM hubs in their place.Very straightforward job and should be done in an hour or so.

Then remove the bash plates/stone trays from the underside of the front end.On the drivers side of the front diff just adjacent to the diff centre you will see a heat shield and behind it lies a vacuum actuator.This actuates a rod that engages the front diff,with the rod in the diff free wheels,with it out the diff is engaged.The vacuum actuator needs to be removed from the diff and chucked out.To do this you disconnect the 2 vacuum lines going to the diaphragm and plug them at their source (which is the 2 solenoids located on the drivers side chassis rail beneath the brake booster).The actuator connects to the rod by sitting in a groove with a pin through it and a metal sleeve over the top to stop the pin falling out.Pull back the rubber boot to reveal this.Slide the sleeve back and remove the pin,keeping it aside for later.Undo the 2 bolts holding the actuator to the diff and it will now come out.This is where a bit of fabrication comes into play.I found it easier to cut off the end of the actuator rod and the bracket that held it in place.You need to make a bracket to hold the diff actuation rod all the way out to keep the front diff permanently engaged (this is why you need the free wheeling hubs to make it efficient,otherwise the front diff and shafts will be turning unnecessarily creating extra load).I used a piece of steel flat bar 20mmx3mm and made a bracket to go off the 2 bolt mounts for the heat shield and welded the end of the actuator rod to it.It takes a bit of trial and error to get it right but once its done,bolt it in place engage the diff rod to the bracket you’ve made and insert the pin.Push the sleeve back over the assembly then pull the rubber boot back over it all and pull it tight with a cable tie.

Put all your underbody protection back on.

The next step is the most rewarding yet the fiddliest.Remove the instrument cluster and take out the light globe that is for the 4wd activation light-its not needed now.Reassemble the dash and your done.

The system now operates like any other 4wd system you would find in a ‘cruiser,Patrol etc etc. When you want to engage 4wd,you get out and lock the hubs in,then move the transfer lever to either 4H or 4L and drive off. The vacuum operated solenoids,actuators and transfer/diff switches are now obsolete……it is a completely mechanical system with no more electronic or vacuum components to fail and no more flickering 4wd light…….4wd is either engaged or not and you know this by the position of the transfer lever.You can even go to the extent of removing the solenoids and wiring should you wish.

Just so you all know,I did this mod to my car about 12 months ago and it has worked flawlessly,as I expected,ever since.

It also increases the life of your CV’s and CV boots as they no longer turn when 4wd is not engaged only when the hubs are locked,there is less load on the drivetrain which may show as a slight increase in Fuel economy.

The only downside (although I don’t see it as being an issue) is you now have to get out of the car to engage 4wd.If you leave the hubs locked in you can still switch from 4H to 2H and vice-versa whilst on the move but will still need to come to a complete stop to engage 4L.


Hope this helps anyone that is having a similar issue.

cheers mate , good write up , what year model is yours?

No wories mate, mine is a 99 model but it is not my write up, I re-posted it. The bloke who done the write up has the same shape as you (post 2000). Good luck with it mate, it looks like a fairly simple job, I am thinking about doing the same thing soon.

Moony.