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dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 11:19 am
by tanz-e
My rusty old GQ's rings are on the way out so im looking to do an intire new build.
I wanna build a new GQ and sound proofing will play a major role in the new car. I spoke to a bloke in dandy who does custom interiors and he schooled me on resonmatt and dynamatt.
Im basicly looking for someone to back up what ive been told. Are these the best products? Would multiple layers give me greater noise reduction and is there any problems with the products?

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 12:20 pm
by mikemax
i used dynamat on my gu dx ute and its about 40% quieter now. I'm happy. it took me 3-4 hours.

apparently the vibration makes the panels act like the skin of a drum and using dynamat reduces this resonance. i got a bulk pack for $220 from ebay and did the floor, roof, back walls, transmission tunnel and got heaps left for the bonnett and doors. You only need to use it on 50% of the total surface area to be effective. Some stereo shops put it eveywehere.

then use closed cell foam from rubber places to put over the top for sound insulation/ absorption. I used 4meters @ $14/m and didnlt glue it down so its easier to clean after the next river crossing.

normal vinyl over the top.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 7:10 pm
by crankycruiser
I did a bit of my 80 ute with dyna matt when we cut it.. it is really good.. also put it on the tranny tunnel to cut back on heat and it worked well for that too.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 8:24 pm
by 80's_delirious
I replaced my carpet underlay n my 80series with 10mm foil backed closed cell foam. It gives thermal and acoustic insulation, it made a huge difference to both heat and noise in my 80 and it wasn' t expensive. less than $100 to do the entire floor pan. Dont leave any gaps if possible.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Wed May 04, 2011 10:53 pm
by coops62
Jaycar also make a sound deadener/heat shield and I've just put some in the rear of my wagon. Would imagine it to be a bit cheaper than Dynamat and can't see how it could be any less efficient. Won't know how good it really is until I do my doors but I think it improved the rear section considerably. I won't know for sure until I do the doors I guess but I am happy to this point in time

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.as ... rm=KEYWORD

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 8:39 pm
by hokey
how does this stuff go with water? got no carpet in my patrol and just need something to keep the exhaust heat off the passenger floor

thanks

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:42 am
by KiwiBacon
I just did a price check on dynamat vs jaycar stuff. NZ pricing.
It came out for the same price as a 3.3 square metre dynamat pack (36 sq feet) you get almost 4.2 square metres of jarcar stuff. The jaycar is 1.5mm thick, dynamat is 1.7mm thick.

What is resonmat?

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 10:43 am
by V.W.Dave
As long as your not taking it swimming you can get house insulation bats in th roof and upper walls/ pillars . It works surprisingly well and it's cheap.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 12:16 pm
by shakes
V.W.Dave wrote:As long as your not taking it swimming you can get house insulation bats in th roof and upper walls/ pillars . It works surprisingly well and it's cheap.
As can the big silver sun visors you get for your windscreen's ;)

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:06 pm
by coops62
KiwiBacon wrote:I just did a price check on dynamat vs jaycar stuff. NZ pricing.
It came out for the same price as a 3.3 square metre dynamat pack (36 sq feet) you get almost 4.2 square metres of jarcar stuff. The jaycar is 1.5mm thick, dynamat is 1.7mm thick.

What is resonmat?
Did you factor in the x 10 purchase discount? Savings to be had there as I used 6 rolls for the rear of my wagon

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:24 pm
by KiwiBacon
coops62 wrote:Did you factor in the x 10 purchase discount? Savings to be had there as I used 6 rolls for the rear of my wagon
Yes that's with the 10+ price break. It works out that 14 jaycar matts are just a fraction more area than the 36 square foot dynamatt pack. I don't think I'd need 14 rolls, but the comparison was interesting.

How good is the adhesive on the jaycar stuff? Any sign it's going to get hot and fall off?

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:39 pm
by coops62
sticks like poo to a blanket but I don't know how long it will last for. Am fairly confident though as it seemed like quality stuff. They make some good audio gear. I didn't realise the cost comparison was so close though. Won't hesitate to tell the sound shop to use Dynamat in doors when I upgrade speakers next

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 3:56 pm
by KiwiBacon
Hmmm, there's a guy in this thread complaining about his jaycar sound matt falling off.
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/for ... deadening/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Yet in this forum they say the jaycar stuff is "brown bread" as it's known in the US. Which is generally very highly rated.
http://forum.pulsar.org.au/showthread.p ... f4d7d4e2de" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So, just to sum up.
Jaycar AX3684 is the brown bread stuff (bitumen), it's sold by jaycar in 330mm square sheets.
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... rm=KEYWORD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Jaycar AX3687 is the lighter butyl stuff, larger sheets (900x330), similar price as above.
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... rm=KEYWORD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Jaycar AX3689 is a combination Butyl and foam which will be lighter again but be the best thermal insulator. I think this stuff would be best for doing the car roof for thermal reasons.
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... rm=KEYWORD" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It would appear Dynamat extreme would be comparable to the brown-bread AX3684.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Tue May 10, 2011 7:01 pm
by Mulcahy
So no one that has this stuff has sayd how it goes if it gets wet a few times, i am interested as i am looking to do a ground up rebuild on my hj47 and was looking to paint the floor and inside of doors with a second skin spectrum sludge and then placing dynamat over the top, is this a waste of money or will it give me alot nice car to sit in

thanks Shane Mulcahy

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 7:11 am
by KiwiBacon
Any stick on deadener can trap water (hence rust) underneath it. You're probably better to go with matts which aren't stuck in and can be removed if you get it wet occasionally.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:04 am
by KiwiBacon
I've found something very interesting today. The building industry uses a foil backed, self-adhesive bitumen cored tape for roofing and sealing around windows. It comes in rolls up to 200mm wide and is a hell of a lot cheaper than products sold for car sound insulation.

The local building supply outfit priced a roll of 150mm wide, 25m long (3.75m^2) at a little over $NZ100. That's about $30 per square metre. Dynamat is $NZ220 for 1.8m^2 or $122 per square metre.

If it's not the same stuff, it's very close. I can guarantee 4 layers of roofing tape will kill more noise than 1 layer of dynamat at the same price. :armsup:

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 11:48 am
by 80's_delirious
Flashtac?

Putting on 4 layers would add a lot of weight, not to mention having to do the whole process 4 times.
I'd look at a single layer to dampen any resonance on panels, then add a layer of foil backed,10mm closed cell foam. Its a good thermal insulator, and good for sound also. Its cheap and is available with a self adhesive backing.
The two in combination will give a better result than either by them itself.

Re: dynamatt or resonmatt?

Posted: Thu Oct 13, 2011 4:16 pm
by TheBigBoy
Im just about to strip, clean out, rust prep and insulate my truck. I didnt get dynamat I went with this dbkill stuff as the guy is just in moreton.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Sound-De ... 336d056caf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I will do all my panels and cavitys. Floor, wheel wells, door cavitys. I also would really like to do the roof and under bonnet aswell. Maybe have to buy 2 lots. The only part I am debating. Is to run some wiring underneath? or should I extract it all to ontop.