Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys. I'm thinkin of 3 linking (2 lower, 1upper + panhard) the front of my GU.. Can anyone whos done it give me some advice? anything would be great. Cheers

do you drive it on road or just offroad ?

Won't two lower links + one top and a panhard rod
Make it a 4 link .

stool wrote:Won't two lower links + one top and a panhard rod
Make it a 4 link .

Yep. Or 3 link with panhard.

I installed a 5 link (4 link with panhard) on a GQ with a mate a couple of years back. The idea being that a heavy truck with a bit of grunt might be too much for a single upper link and its bushes.

Take some measurements and have a play around with the 3 Link Panhard Calculator that can be downloaded free.

Yea she's stayin on the road but isn't exactly a daily but havin said that I still wanna be able to take it on trips.
Was gonna run heims all round or heim one end and bush on the other. Was gonna use somethin like 10mm wall hollow bar and obviously the upper link is gonna need some serious bracing both ends..

First off, What are you trying to achive?

If the anser is flex... there are other opptions around that bolt in ( Superflex or X-link, all though the X-link is a weld in item ) , that way if you get done ( Coppers or RTA ) it can be put back to standard easly. It would end up around if not cheaper than 3 link and panhard.

Red Dog

Yea flex mate...obviously..
I'm aware of the options on offer although I cannot justify spending that sort of money when I can build something for a fraction of the price which has the potential to flex alot better.
Would love to hear from someone who's gone for a 3link+ panhard or 4link, which ever way ya wanna look at it, in their patrol..

why do u need flex??

is it a ramp queen or have u actually been stuck because u have no flex!

Dont be afraid to carry a wheel

Stupid question do u lockers??

nisfit wrote:Yea flex mate...obviously..
I'm aware of the options on offer although I cannot justify spending that sort of money when I can build something for a fraction of the price which has the potential to flex alot better.
Would love to hear from someone who's gone for a 3link+ panhard or 4link, which ever way ya wanna look at it, in their patrol..

the money you save will be required to re-engineer your steering! as teh examples listed tend to max out all the ball joints. IE any more flex and you will have to start looking at hydro steer or some funky hi steer.

Yea have lockers. Each to their own but I'd rather see massively crossed up diffs than a wheel in the air.. Hydro steer is part of the project..

nisfit wrote:Yea flex mate...obviously..
I'm aware of the options on offer although I cannot justify spending that sort of money when I can build something for a fraction of the price which has the potential to flex alot better.
Would love to hear from someone who's gone for a 3link+ panhard or 4link, which ever way ya wanna look at it, in their patrol..

If you cant justify spending $1300 on superflex arms then fair enough but I'm pretty sure the X link is still only about $650 and there's no way in hell you would need any more flex then they have to offer. I could max out 14inch coilovers with that set up easily and that was an off road rig only. You would not need anywhere near that much flex on a tourer.

There's more to making a 4wd flex properly and handle properly then throwing a couple of links together. Your basicly saying they you could design a better set up then Superior Engineering & Glen Dobbin engineering for a fraction of the cost. Thats a bloody big call mate.

Cheers Mick.

nisfit wrote:Yea have lockers. Each to their own but I'd rather see massively crossed up diffs than a wheel in the air.. Hydro steer is part of the project..

Even if the axles ares crossed up are they actually putting the power down or just looking sick!

I would rather have a wheel in the air and have a truck that still drives well.

Each to there own but why reinvent the wheel and make it square

Mate, I say do it. I'd rather a linked front then Superflex arms or X-link.

1Madengineer has a good point about steering though as the standard rod ends will bind if you get any decent flex. I think ABT4x4 used to do hi steer arms or you could get some machined. These would also help reduce bump steer as the drag link will sit flatter. You'll obviously need your new panhard to sit parallel to the drag link and be of similar length.

I'm pretty sure heims are illegal to run on the road (don't quote me on that) and they would give a rough and loud ride. Have a look at running Johnny Joints or something similar. They flex like a heim while providing some cushioning like a poly bush.

You also might want to speak with an engineer about it all before starting. Most people go 2" OD with 1/2" wall. 10mm wall sounds excessive, especially for an upper link that won't cop any hits.

If you're only looking at linking the front as a cheaper way of getting the front to flex, I don't think it's a good idea as the hi steer arms, control arms, rod ends, engineers report, new shock hoops etc will be plenty more expensive than Superflex arms and longer travel shocks. If you're doing it for better flex, then go for it! As for lifting wheels - the more contact area on the ground, the better the traction.

91Mav wrote: You also might want to speak with an engineer about it all before starting. Most people go 2" OD with 1/2" wall. 10mm wall sounds excessive, especially for an upper link that won't cop any hits.

Isnt 1/2inch 12.54mm therefore bigger than 10mm??

91Mav wrote:I'm pretty sure heims are illegal to run on the road (don't quote me on that) and they would give a rough and loud ride. Have a look at running Johnny Joints or something similar. They flex like a heim while providing some cushioning like a poly bush.
Most people go 2" OD with 1/2" wall. 10mm wall sounds excessive, especially for an upper link that won't cop any hits.

My opinion is a Johnny Joint would not be good for steering. First it is too big. Second I do not believe it is designed so be used for steering components.
2" x0.50" wall sounds very heavy to me. I have the poly perf kit (converted the 3-link kit to a 4-link) on the front of my Jeep which is 2"x0.25" wall lowers and 1.75"x0.120" uppers. I have no second thoughts about the links breaking.

The benefits of a custom 3-link are more than just (possibly) increased articulation. You can choose the exact geometry (limited to packaging) to fit your needs.
For example on my Jeep I sacrificed optimal castor and pinion angle to get my Anti-Squat to where I wanted throughout the travel.

I would never chuck Radius Arms under any of my off-road vehicles. The geometry does not suit my needs, especially as the angle of the radius arms increases.

Rant over,
Luke.

Yeah sorry... I meant 1/4 inch wall / 1 1/2 inch ID. Brain's not functioning well today.

I was talking about Johnny Joints for the control arms. That's why i suggested hi steer arms for the steering.

There's more to making a 4wd flex properly and handle properly then throwing a couple of links together. Your basicly saying they you could design a better set up then Superior Engineering & Glen Dobbin engineering for a fraction of the cost. Thats a bloody big call mate.



Not the call I was makin at all mate. Was talking bout the Potential of the 3 link+panhard design in general.. And im not trying to build a flexy tourer either just don't wanna have to trailer it everywhere..

nisfit wrote:Not the call I was makin at all mate. Was talking bout the Potential of the 3 link+panhard design in general.. And im not trying to build a flexy tourer either just don't wanna have to trailer it everywhere..

Link it, keep the swaybar and add disconnects.

1MadEngineer wrote:

nisfit wrote:Yea flex mate...obviously..
I'm aware of the options on offer although I cannot justify spending that sort of money when I can build something for a fraction of the price which has the potential to flex alot better.
Would love to hear from someone who's gone for a 3link+ panhard or 4link, which ever way ya wanna look at it, in their patrol..

the money you save will be required to re-engineer your steering! as teh examples listed tend to max out all the ball joints. IE any more flex and you will have to start looking at hydro steer or some funky hi steer.

I spread the cup on the drag link on my old 5 link front on the steer box end. That would have been 2003 ish.