Outer Limits 4x4 Board

GT35R .84 Rear housing.

Can link a dyno graph tomorrow of this exact setup tuned extremely mildly.

It made 220hp at the wheels with 35's. with 10psi. 2200rpm full boost I think it was.

Has gone 320hp @ 12psi with a bit more agressive timing figures to give you an indication of the possibilities.

Depending on the manifold you use, you may have modify the comp cover to clear the block.

boriscutyourcockoff wrote:thank you sir
i,m looking for mid range power for towing & a little extra boost to have fun sometimes if that makes sense??
bit like an xr6 turbo driving normal but have balls to pull weight

Same turbo the XR6 Uses.
Same capacity motor, so it will have very similar midrange etc... Obviously the XR6 will make alot more power due to better engine design. But you get the drift.

Ill try and throw up some photo's tomorrow of the GQ Wagon with a 35R setup. Full multi coil ignition, front mount intercooler, EMS management etc..

boriscutyourcockoff wrote:that be great thanks
will do the intercooler thing , ignition will be ice, within regards to petrol well , thirsty , so stick to gas ,,
manifold will by that fella on ebay that is located in hobart custom steam pipe job ( nice bloke )
no expence spared ,, dont wanna sitting on the side of the road like a banana ,, been there done that ,,
within regard to wastegate thats got me f**ked ??? internal or external???

External for low boost applications.
I learnt the hard way on this particular setup.

The internal gates are to small for less than 14psi boost. You either have to get a larger swing valve, or make one out of an old exhaust valve and port the wastegate path by hand to allow lower boost.

External is a much better way to go.
Once you see the pics you will start to drool at the setup now Looks like what a factory GQ Turbo setup would have been if they done it, and done it properly.

I feel your frustration
The only problem I have with doing turbo setups is, alot of people dont realise the cost in doing it once, and doing it properly.
The only thing I refuse to do, is fix another shops attempts at doing it cheaply.

As Promised though, here are the piccy's. Enjoy. I didnt print out the dyno graph sorry, but I will do so tomorrow.

boriscutyourcockoff wrote:niceeeeeee !!!!!!
what rpm are you at full boost ?"
also have you pics of your intercooler , did you remove your condenser to fit it in??

Intercooler is smallish, no other modifications to fit it though. Similar in size to the Safari Diesel intercooler (its big enough for this application)
Full boost I believe was about 2200-2400rpm (dont hold me to it, I will get a dyno graph for you though)

The setup is for a lazy tourer with standard motor. Each degree of timing I put in equates to about another 12-15hp at this power level so it is detuned beyond belief at the moment.

220hp is decent power though. Especially considering I could get to 320 with bugger all more boost and some timing thrown at it already.

boriscutyourcockoff wrote:within regards to tyre size 35's
so if was to put a gt35r on standard tyres my vehicle that is, where would my rpm be at full boost ??
lets say 8 or 14psi ??

the shorty is pretty much standard everything
so the important part is , what wiil the engine be doing @110k 2400rpm on the highway

Depends on how much load you are towing at that rpm.

the 35 will make 10psi by about 2200 at full throttle.

With an aftermarket ecu, and control over the wastegate I can easily drop that boost to 6psi max or raise it to 30psi at anything over 2400rpm.

What do you want it to do at 2400rpm on the highway? I would say 2-3psi boost would be a pretty good level to be at for cruising as you can still have quite lean mixtures at this level. Of course it can be adjusted using the ecu up or down depending on what you need.

Straight gas is a problem.
It depends on the system. For a turbo setup it must be injected, you cannot have a draw/blow through setup on an intercooled motor as the cooler will be a bomb if the engine ever backfires.

You will not have control over the boost though. It is something that is setup during the tuning phase to meet the customers needs, not something the end user play's with to suit their needs.

If you know how easily valves melt with the wrong mixture on gas and how quickly piston's do the same, you will see why it is setup in a controlled environment (dyno room) to prevent these things from happening.

boriscutyourcockoff wrote:fair point things have to be done properly

any other way for straight gas?
heres what i have
efi manifold gas throttle body
electronic dizzy
ice ignition system boost retard map ? fully adjustable
b2 converter
so which is the best way to set it up?
can i still intercool it for effiency ?
is there a change in turbo size ?

Ok.

Gas throttlebody is ok, if it can supply under boost (most cannot due to negative feed design)
Ele dizzy is fine (See photo's we removed the dizzy and replaced with a billet alloy cover, keeping the original chopper plate sensor inside)
Boost retard ignition system is ok for nitrous setups and basic turbo setups. But does not allow proper ignition mapping on a 3d table of boost/rpm.

Definitely must intercool it on a petrol though.

Turbo size wont change