Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just finished a fair bit of work to my nh swb jero.

It is now regoed, and has had its first offroad adventure last weekend since the work.

It now has:

commodore 2002 factory supercharged 3.8 v6 conversion.
10 psi pulley kit (190kw)
Commodore 4 speed auto as well . 4l60e
front lokka lockrite and 8" 1998 model front diff conversion. (had 7.25)
Rear 1998 model rear diff with factory diff locker.
4.6 ratio upgrade.
40mm suspension lift, king rear springs.
b+m shifter.
VS commodore v8 radiator.
33" maxxis bighorn, procomp rims.
ect.

I have a full write up on a few car forums, but heres a few pics now that its all done.

when i bought it


insert new output shaft in auto. yikes!



test fit


made sump


8" vs 7.25 centres.



locker fitted



diff swap rear






engine in its new home


a picture from the weekend

Forgot to add, i have both complete diffs here. 4.9 ratio, front is 7.25 four pin centre, rear is complete nh diff, end to end.
220,000 ks on them, both have no noises or problems, been out of car for approx 2-3 months. will exchange for beer.

wow never seen a s/c commo motor in a paj before, how hard was the conversion? as im thinking about putting a n/a commo v6 in my ng lwb, and do you thing its worth going? mines currently a 2.5ltr turbo diesel,

that engine gearbox combo is nearly as long as the whole car

I have been watching this build on your sig link - love it, nice work

How much did you pay for motor and box ? What mods did you have to do to the drive shafts.
What other forums is your build on, can you pm me the info so we can chat some more,
Cheers Jeff

Na, don't PM, just write it here so we all can see!

I put a new output shaft in a Commy auto one day, its quite a job, just don't loose track of where the ball bearings go huh!!!

Thanks for the replys!
Yep, 6 ball bearings from memory, and i haven"t found any leftover...... yet...
I had a proper holden 4l60e manual for the auto, and followed it very closely,

Build took 5 months, plus a few more slack months to get it approved and registered.
Thats with about 2 days a every week, working on it in the afternoon after work.

motor and box with ecu, exhaust, ect cost $2200 with 110,000 ks on it.
gearbox adapter to transfer case cost $1200.
Complete conversion cost roughly $4200- $4500, i kept record of a fair bit of the costing.
Tail shafts remain the same as this is still the factory transfer case, in the factory location.
Link to build here or in my signature.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums ... t=67259036" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Build is very detailed there, except for wiring is not easy to put into words.

Definately worth the effort, more than i ever imagined.

Some vids from yesterday, still got factory shocks and swaybars, but have some ranchos coming for the rear.

Little red has quite a reputation around this area.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKnoV-iWub0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--cpaeypUi0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thats indeed a mean and very capable pajero. I couldnt imagine
myself climbing that. Congratulations.

Why did you call her little red? I do see a blue pajero or am i
color blind dirnking too much beer.

never too much beer!

Nah the hill is called "little red", there is also a "big red",
they are both quite well known, but have got a heap harder since the floods at the start of the year, plenty of footage on youtube of both hills and various attempts.

You probably don't know this yet, as your still getting used to it.
But what sort of fuel economy you getting?

Yeh, not real sure yet, the old 3.0 was really thirsty for me, so this is definately an improvement so far. Its the missus work car so i have her keeping tabs on it, and could probably give some numbers in a few weeks.
My brother has a l67 commodore thats similar weight, he gets about 500ks a tank around town, or 800 on the highway.

Rear Shocks arrived, and 1" body lift. Never wanted to body lift, but the for outweight the against in the end.

Reasons i decided to body lift:

Fuel capacity (if i make a tank)
Rock slider clearance (making soon)
Tyre rub. a bit on the front mudflap on lock, but will not have to trim plastic now.
Longer shocks. (to be continued.)







This a is pic of the rear fully flexed out with the stock suspension, so looking forward to changing a few things.

firstly, i see a skid mark on the pavement, wheres the burnout pic!

second, did you get extended pajero shocks or 4runer shocks?

thirdly, fantastic work on the conversion

cheers mate, no skid pics, noone was home to take them, quite sad really.

Shocks are neither, they are way too long for a jero, will be some relocation of upper mount involved, probably lower mount too i think, will get to putting them in soon.

What are you thinking of doing to the rear? Upper control arm?

Nah, nothing that serious yet. From the info i have found on the net the rears dont have a whole lot stopping them from nice travel, just sway bar, rubber brake line, hand brake lines, and shockies.

So i have done handbrake, and rubber brake line, and swaybar is easy.

So for the shocks, i jumped under the car and there is another 100mm of clearance between the upper shock mounts, and the body, now 125mm after body lift. So the plan is to move the shocks in slightly from the factory mount point, and make a bracket that bolts to the factory shock mounting location, and then goes up to just below the floor, effectively giving me an extra 125mm before the shock bottoms out. The shocks will remain on the same angle, just slightly further towards the centre of the car from the factory location.
This will allow me to fit 125mm longer shocks, with no bump stop spacing, and definately no 'wedge' look.

Any feedback or advice appreciated...

Overkill lengthened his shock mounts some time ago, not sure if he is still here as he sold his Paj. I must have mine set up not to bad as I removed the shocks and undid the handbrake cables one day and flexed it up (no sway bar) and there was only about 1 cm extra to be gained so left it as it was and got twin lockers

Any more than factory in the rear and the shocks hit the radius arms bad, putting dents in them, especially if they are larger bore than normal.





Glen

twin locker ftw, i still cant believe the stability, and capability they have bought to the car.

Thanks for the pics, i read about that problem but have never seen pics, its a heap more than i imagined. will definately look at doing something with the bottom mounts as well then.
Just gotta get my car in paint, and i will have a look at the jero again, probably 2 weeks or so.

A bit of of an update with this thing.

Has been serving as my wifes work car since it was regoed, has been extrememly reliable, but a thirsty pig.

Has had 1" body lift, tyres touched the mudflaps on flex.

Went to Landcruiser park, twas good, cheap chinaman cv joint sheared off in the middle with very little abuse, so was a 3 wheel drive for the weekend, genuine reconditioned mitsubushi cv going in next week.
I have some good vids, but need good internets to upload.

These are the only still pics i took, so forgive the Grimace flex shot pose.






minor damage to the plastic, i will admit the door and sill are crumpled metal underneath.





Also went in the local burnout comp, have 2 vids to upload, locker worked well, 31's were not the ideal tyre size to smoke, but it did a good skid.

Pic i found on boostlosing...

In this attempt my front passenger cv is already broken, and i forgot to put the rear locker in. Solid hill though. :yes:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rBcFgjaH ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


burnouts.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBUAcqTu ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W76bQDDz ... re=related" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hi mate,

fantastic job well done, one-offs arent easy.
When you say you have high fuel consumption what sort of figures are you talking about??

have you worked out why?? I guess having 4.90 diffs dont help.

FWIW my NL 3.5 with 4.636 gets about 14-15 l/100ks & I run in 4wd H all the time. I find the SOHC a good powered , reasonably economical unit. There is a mob in Qld that does a charger for them now.

cheere mate

Thanks mate.

We worked the economy out at 13l/100ks a few months ago, so i guess its not too bad now.
I used to have a k&n filter in it, this is a big dont do with the airflow metered cars apparently, so going back to a paper filter and cleaning the MAF got me an extra 40ks to a tank.
I think the biggest thing is the gearing though, because of the revs on the highway the computer never seems to slip into economy mode above 100kph, which means it doesnt lock the converter up as it should on the highway.
It has 98 model diffs so i have the 4.6 ratio as well.

I think if i had the 3.5 in my car to start with i wouldnt have bothered with the conversion, its just the complete lack of torque the 3.0 had to offer that eventually made the decision for me.

sick01 wrote:Thanks mate.

We worked the economy out at 13l/100ks a few months ago, so i guess its not too bad now.
I used to have a k&n filter in it, this is a big dont do with the airflow metered cars apparently, so going back to a paper filter and cleaning the MAF got me an extra 40ks to a tank.
I think the biggest thing is the gearing though, because of the revs on the highway the computer never seems to slip into economy mode above 100kph, which means it doesnt lock the converter up as it should on the highway.
It has 98 model diffs so i have the 4.6 ratio as well.

I think if i had the 3.5 in my car to start with i wouldnt have bothered with the conversion, its just the complete lack of torque the 3.0 had to offer that eventually made the decision for me.

13l/100? mate thats fantastic, i get around 17-18l/100ks on the 3L

3.5 Manual on 4.9 Diffs and 33's - I get about 12 on a long trip (all open road) and more often 13 to 16 (around town with a little off road maybe), off road only 20+

Glad to hear its going so well.

Oh I see , well if you ar e getting 13s, thats really good I reckon especially for all the grunt on tap you have.

You could always go to higher diffs, 4.30 for example , from what I have discovered the Cw&p from the Gen 2 are interchanegable with the Gen3 (up to NP anyway).

The NP petrols run 4.3, if you wanted to go lhigher again the diesels run 3.90.

Out of interest what does the Commie run that the motor came out of , my guess would be around 3-3.5?? So yes your gearing is the cause for the high revving.

BTW , that thing must fly.......

I reckon if I had the dough I would get the mob in Qld to fit ablower to my 3.5l , that way I wouldnt have to worry about all the stuff you have done, eg wiring, sumps, mounts etc.
But you have done a great job.

cheers

May i ask about your engine mounts?

The MarksAdpators website states thier kit is only for the 4cyl Paj's though my understanding is that is in regards to mating of the Commo V6 to the Manual gearbox......will the MarksAdaptors (overpriced) engine mounts suit or is the engine bay completely different in that regard for a 4cyl vs V6 Paj?

Are the engine mounts the same on the L67 as on a regular bogan spec Ecotec?

I too have a V6/5spd NH shorty (in that colour too) that I'm looking at doing the same thing to, but with a regular ecotec. I'd just ring Marks but theyre not open til the 16th of January!The nerve of some people...taking holidays!

Yep same as bogan spec ecotec.

mounts are custom, I dont know if the marks stuff would work as i only used their adaptor and nothing more.

welding would be required regardless of what you used.

See the link in my signature for info and pictures.



Thanks for the info Ian Sharpe, I though i had the highest available ratio, its good to know the later model gears fit. cheers!

sick01 wrote:Yep same as bogan spec ecotec.

mounts are custom, I dont know if the marks stuff would work as i only used their adaptor and nothing more.

welding would be required regardless of what you used.

See the link in my signature for info and pictures.

Can somebody who has recently dealt with Marks for adaptors post a summary of what's still available for engine swaps in to Pajeros? Just what you found for whatever you were looking at would be good.

sick01 wrote:Thanks for the info Ian Sharpe, I though i had the highest available ratio, its good to know the later model gears fit. cheers!

Keep in mind diff sizes. Any Gen 2 Pajero that came with 3.5 V6 or 2.8 td should have diff sizes compatible with later models.

The 3.0 Gen 2s had a slightly smaller rear diff (9" vs 9.5" from memory), and 3.0V6 autos had a smaller front diff (7.5" vs 8" IIRC). Therefore, your NH may not have diffs compatible with the later models. Our FAQ / Tech database should have most of the info on diff sizes in the different vintages.

cheers mate, both my diffs are out of '98 '99 models so i should be right.

Interesting to note too that my car is factory manual gearbox v6 but had the smaller 7.5" , 4 pin centre front diff in it, so not only the autos and deisels had them, maybe some shorty too..