Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just a quick question regarding free-wheeling hubs.

What keeps the dial from turning from UNLOCK to LOCK? Is it the spring?

Reason I ask is my drivers side hub has turned from the UNLOCK position a couple of times when I'm on the highway. Once I could hear a ticking sound from the tyre when doing highway speeds and I found the dial had somehow unlocked.

Could the spring be losing its tension and need replacement? Could it be anything else?

Are you actually meaning to drive around on the highway with your hubs locked?

toaddog wrote:Are you actually meaning to drive around on the highway with your hubs locked?

No

Actually the dial doesn't turn all the way to LOCK, it just sits between UNLOCK and LOCK.

What vehicle - what type of hubs

It's a Suzi Grand Vit running Vitara hubs which are Aisin. My understanding is they are the same as Toyota but with different spline count etc.

does it matter if you lock your manual free wheeling hubs in on-road...........................

I have seen a few problems inside hubs. Everything from broken springs to worn out splines but the most common thing I have found is dirt getting into them.
Take it apart ( they are very simple inside) just do it slowly and make notes. Give them a good clean out with some fuel or degreaser. If nothing is broken or worn out rebuild it and put some grease in it and put it all bock together/on.

If you do find broken parts you can put the hub housing back on without the insides till you can replace it or fix it.

uninformed wrote:does it matter if you lock your manual free wheeling hubs in on-road...........................

Yes and no. With it locked in it is spinning the axil inside and its also spinning the diff. Doing this can cause premature wear. It is not the end of the world if you do it over short distances. That said I know people that locked them in and drove with them locked in for years without any problems.

Its not good for it in short.

You sure its not the neighbours kids or someone adjusting them when your parked?

stilivn wrote:You sure its not the neighbours kids or someone adjusting them when your parked?

Yeah I've thought about that too.

The hubs were rebuilt a few 000km ago when I had to replace my wheel bearings. Given that it's been several weeks and the hub switch has only rotated twice maybe it is some kid playing with them???

there is a spring loaded detent ball that holds it in either the lock or unlock position.

you should feel the detend ball engage when you turn it toi unlock, little bit of resistance when you try to turn it back.

if you cant feel the detend ball working, could be the spring is rusty/jammed/blocked etc.

Shadow wrote:there is a spring loaded detent ball that holds it in either the lock or unlock position.

you should feel the detend ball engage when you turn it toi unlock, little bit of resistance when you try to turn it back.

if you cant feel the detend ball working, could be the spring is rusty/jammed/blocked etc.

Yes I can feel the detent ball working when moving from the UNLOCK position but not a lot of resistance. So maybe the spring is OK but maybe not enough grease???

heres a vid that shows you how to rebuild them. might be worth having a go yourself and you'll find the problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxSBcAyt2WA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

V.W.Dave wrote:

uninformed wrote:does it matter if you lock your manual free wheeling hubs in on-road...........................

Yes and no. With it locked in it is spinning the axil inside and its also spinning the diff. Doing this can cause premature wear. It is not the end of the world if you do it over short distances. That said I know people that locked them in and drove with them locked in for years without any problems.

Its not good for it in short.

so how different is a front diff/axle/cv on a part time 4wd designed to a fulltime one????

uninformed wrote:

V.W.Dave wrote:

uninformed wrote:does it matter if you lock your manual free wheeling hubs in on-road...........................

Yes and no. With it locked in it is spinning the axil inside and its also spinning the diff. Doing this can cause premature wear. It is not the end of the world if you do it over short distances. That said I know people that locked them in and drove with them locked in for years without any problems.

Its not good for it in short.

so how different is a front diff/axle/cv on a part time 4wd designed to a fulltime one????

remove the free-wheeling hub, and bolt in its place a drive plate. This is a plate with a spline in the centre, and 6 bolts holes around the outside. Constant 4wd.

Shadow wrote:

uninformed wrote:

V.W.Dave wrote:

uninformed wrote:does it matter if you lock your manual free wheeling hubs in on-road...........................

Yes and no. With it locked in it is spinning the axil inside and its also spinning the diff. Doing this can cause premature wear. It is not the end of the world if you do it over short distances. That said I know people that locked them in and drove with them locked in for years without any problems.

Its not good for it in short.

so how different is a front diff/axle/cv on a part time 4wd designed to a fulltime one????

remove the free-wheeling hub, and bolt in its place a drive plate. This is a plate with a spline in the centre, and 6 bolts holes around the outside. Constant 4wd.

And some vehicles are designed to have fixed hubs such as the earlier landrovers. So no its not really a problem.

Shadow wrote: remove the free-wheeling hub, and bolt in its place a drive plate. This is a plate with a spline in the centre, and 6 bolts holes around the outside. Constant 4wd.

ummm I think your transfer case may disagree depending on its design........

toaddog wrote: And some vehicles are designed to have fixed hubs such as the earlier landrovers. So no its not really a problem.

this, are the engineers sitting down and using different design princiapals based on whether the front end is to be a fixed drive flange or a free wheeling hub???? what is actually different?

There is no problem running ya hubs locked on the road. Might get the vibs if ya tailshaft isn't ballanced though. It is better to run locked to get the grease to the top kinpin bearing for the people that don't use there 4x4.

uninformed wrote:

Shadow wrote: remove the free-wheeling hub, and bolt in its place a drive plate. This is a plate with a spline in the centre, and 6 bolts holes around the outside. Constant 4wd.

ummm I think your transfer case may disagree depending on its design........

i answered his question. did you read his question???

uninformed wrote:

toaddog wrote: And some vehicles are designed to have fixed hubs such as the earlier landrovers. So no its not really a problem.

this, are the engineers sitting down and using different design princiapals based on whether the front end is to be a fixed drive flange or a free wheeling hub???? what is actually different?

not much different at all. They both have an axle running out the middle of the hub. You must transfer drive from this axle to the hub. You can use a drive plate, which means drive is always connected to the hub. Or, you can put in place of the drive plate a Free Wheeling Hub. Which simply lets you disengage drive to the hub from the axle.

Shadow wrote:

uninformed wrote:

Shadow wrote: remove the free-wheeling hub, and bolt in its place a drive plate. This is a plate with a spline in the centre, and 6 bolts holes around the outside. Constant 4wd.

ummm I think your transfer case may disagree depending on its design........

i answered his question. did you read his question???

who are you referring to as "his".....because i think you are qouting me AND referring to me.............................

any how my point is that locking hubs in doesnt change the fwd system.....that is in the Tcase design...take an old fj cursier...taking free wheeling hubs off the front and using drive flanges instead doesnt make it constant 4wd.............

u can drive around with your hubs locked as long as your in 2 wheel drive, yes the tryes/wheels will turn the hub/cv-uni/inner axle/side gear/diff......and the propshaft, but it will be discontected at the Tcase..........what devistating wear or problems will occur.....bugger all. BUT all your moving parts will spin and move about the oil/grease designed for lubrication................

maybe the ring and pinion will be driving on the coast side of the gear, but its not under load so wont matter........

uninformed wrote: who are you referring to as "his".....because i think you are qouting me AND referring to me.............................

Ha, i didnt realise you asked the question.

You asked this question

uninformed wrote: so how different is a front diff/axle/cv on a part time 4wd designed to a fulltime one????

I answered it. You never asked about the differences between the transfer cases.