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GQ Vibration
Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2004 11:23 pm
by EricB
Hi
I have a just raised my GQ SWB 2" above standard height.
Love they way it drives now but have a vibration between 40-45km/hr
I did a search on here and decided to try the OME packer kit for the gear box cross member from ARB.
I think it has improved it a little bit.
My question is, should I add another kit and take from 10mm to 15 or 20mm?
Or is there a better option for me to take?
I hope I'm on the right track.
Any help would be great!
Cheers
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 11:18 am
by marin
my last shorty had a 2 inch lift when i bought it and had 2 gear box packers and drove perfectly... could also try new uni's and tailshaft balance after that
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 11:33 am
by Dirty Dave
The Vibs could just co-incide wit the wheel balance that needs to be done that you forgot about...happened to me at a five inch lift but the car is more female when you go that high in a SWB.
If you are that worried you could go adjustable top arms to correct diff angles, but seriously who drives at 40-45km/h???
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 11:43 am
by EricB
Cool, I have just popped some MTRs on this morning and I have a caster kit installed. So the balance should be cool.
When you say 2 gearbox packers, do you mean 2 plates or you bought 2 kits = 4 plates a side?
For $30 I might try a second kit.
Now I have to find somewhere to test her out
Do you guys ever go on any day trips that are ok for a novice to tag along also?
Cheers
Eric
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 12:07 pm
by robbie
Eric: there are always trips getting organised which cater for new drivers to the most experienced drivers.. keep a watch on the trips & tracks section.
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 12:45 pm
by Red Rover
Mine has been a mongrel since day dot with vibration on a 3-4 inch lift. The adjustable top arms made a reasonable difference, buy depeneds on weight is in it etc. I have the packers, but they made it worse (with STD top arms). Haven't tried them with the adj arms yet though. Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 7:49 pm
by rOd
Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms
Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?
Rod
diff
Posted: Sat Jul 10, 2004 10:17 pm
by DR Frankenstine
Re: diff
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 5:17 am
by Dirty Dave
NOT EVERYONE IS EASILY PLEASED.....UNLIKE MQ OWNERS!!!
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:37 am
by viperguy
give cheezy a call... i have a 91 mav swb with 5 inch springs.. if u use standard shaft as aposed to double carden u need longer lower trailing arms...lowers pinion to match angle from transfer output..
spoke to cheezy and he sent me 16mm longer bomb proof arms and heypresto...no more virations... hes even in melbourne so give him a buzz or go see him.. hes the guru. the adjustable upper arms will work with the double carden shaft as u have to have the pinion and shaft working in a straight line with the upper unis doing the bending...
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2004 9:18 pm
by Red Rover
rOd wrote:Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms
Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?
Rod
Yes it is as easy as that, why it made a difference defies all logic, but is has. It also gives more clearance on the crossmember.
As for MQ's, I had two of them & bloody front end wobbles, no way never again! Yes I did get rid of them but what a pain in the arse
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 5:15 pm
by sideways
i have a 4 inch lift in mine and all i did was lower the cross member by 15 mill and packed the engin up 10 no vibrations cost about $10
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 5:40 pm
by bazzle
The turning the tailshaft worked due to picking up a different wear point in the uni's. As said earlier sometimes they need to be changed.
On LWB the shaft should always be turned so slip joint is a top when fitting longer rear shocks so shaft doesnt hit extra crossmember on droop.
bazzle
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 5:55 pm
by rOd
Red Rover wrote:rOd wrote:Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms
Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?
Rod
Yes it is as easy as that, why it made a difference defies all logic, but is has. It also gives more clearance on the crossmember.
As for MQ's, I had two of them & bloody front end wobbles, no way never again! Yes I did get rid of them but what a pain in the arse
Strangely enough, I dont get any vibrations at all from the front end. Apart from my steering wheel being off centre since the lift, which indicates the need for a wheel alignment.
Rod
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2004 10:56 pm
by EricB
Tonight I decided to call into Bunnings
I got 24 large washers to suit the bolts from the cross member adjuster kit.
undid all the bolts and put 3 washers around each bolt between the 2 plates from the kit, about 7mm.
Now the vibration is 99% gone
It only cost another $2.88 instead of another kit $32
Eric
PS. will lowering the cross member by 17mm add stress to the engine mounts or should they be fine left untouched?
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 6:01 am
by rOd
EricB wrote:undid all the bolts and put 3 washers around each bolt between the 2 plates from the kit, about 7mm.
Now the vibration is 99% gone
Eric
PS. will lowering the cross member by 17mm add stress to the engine mounts or should they be fine left untouched?
This is exactly what I did except my washers are about 70mm wide which I found at work, hence cost nothing.
I agree, the vibrations around 40-60kms are nearly gone.
Ive also thought about undoing the bolts for the engine a bit to release the twist on the rubber then redoing it. Dont know if that is the case yet.
Rod
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 8:09 am
by bazzle
There is extra strain on engine mounts.
Early 2 bolts may shear. Later 4 bolts will bang against the wrap plates from time to time.
Just keep a spare 2 bolt mount for left side (same as r/h)
(Or get a Cheezy pinned one?)
Bazzle
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2004 8:11 am
by bazzle
Strangely enough, I dont get any vibrations at all from the front end. Apart from my steering wheel being off centre since the lift, which indicates the need for a wheel alignment.
Rod
Rear shaft doesnt affect front.
Alignment wont fix steering wheel offset. You will need an adj drag link (from box to l/h wheel)
Bazzle
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2004 10:18 pm
by Red Rover
rOd wrote:Red Rover wrote:rOd wrote:Red Rover wrote:Turned the shaft around as well & that has virtually go rid of it, combined with the adj top arms
Im curious about this trick. Was it as simple as just turning the tailshaft from tranny end to diff end?
Rod
Yes it is as easy as that, why it made a difference defies all logic, but is has. It also gives more clearance on the crossmember.
As for MQ's, I had two of them & bloody front end wobbles, no way never again! Yes I did get rid of them but what a pain in the arse
No. i was talking about the rear, not the front
Strangely enough, I dont get any vibrations at all from the front end. Apart from my steering wheel being off centre since the lift, which indicates the need for a wheel alignment.
Rod
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 12:00 pm
by GQTrav
One of my mates has a swb mav with a 4 inch lift, a couple of weeks after the lift, he needed new engine mounts, this was caused by the cross member being lowered too much and putting too much stress on the engine mounts.
Another mate has a swb GQ with a 4-5 inch lift and gets shocking vibration between 70 and 80, this is with 33 inch muds. Yesterday we put my road tyres on his truck (31's, no offset) and the vibration disappeared completely. Glad we found out it was the wheels before we started replacing bushes and the like.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 12:04 pm
by EricB
How much did he lower the cross member by?
Maybe it is worth losening and retightening the engine mounts.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 1:46 pm
by GQTrav
Can't remember how much he lowered it by, but the guy with the SWB GQ is just using some ply wood for the spacer, i thinks it's around 10mm and we've had no trouble with that, don't know how long it's been there for, it was like that when he got the car.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 1:56 pm
by EricB
Cool, now I just need some places to test it.
This is all new to me. I did Lady Talbot Drive on Sunday but didn't take any side tracks as I dont have a UHF or recovery gear. They are next on the list.
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 3:59 pm
by bazzle
Join the Nissan Patrol club in melb.
Bazzle
Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 4:24 pm
by EricB
bazzle wrote:Join the Nissan Patrol club in melb.
Bazzle
Do they have a web site?
