Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well got a Gq ute 6" coils and all the rest. Now the space between the rear tait shaft and the cross member on the chassis it bout 5mm.There is marks on both where they have been rubbing when back wheels are spinning faster than the front wheels i'm getting a huge banging sound "sorta like axel tramp" but louder. I think its the tail shaft hitting the cross member. The gear box mounts look fine so it shouldn't be such a small gap,there . The tail shaft has been flipped so the thin end is at the front already. My mate has same suspension set up and has over a inch gap between the two.
Does any body have any idea's or has any one had this problem before

Have you got gear box crossmember spaces between the transfer and the chassis?
Its not unusual for the clearance to be close. Some people notch the crossmember for more clearance.
Sorry but how does the front spin faster then the front? Have you checked all your control arm bushes?

i mean when the back wheels are spinning with no traction. its the back tail shaft. i no you can notch the front and thats fine. its the back where my problem is

UTEGQ wrote:i mean when the back wheels are spinning with no traction. its the back tail shaft. i no you can notch the front and thats fine. its the back where my problem is

I know people notch the front I was talking about notching the rear!
As I said do you have gear box cross member spacers to adjust the REAR Tailshaft/pinion angle

no, i got longer tralling arms cause i thought that done the same thing with the pinion angle. how thick should the gear box cross member spacers be.

UTEGQ wrote:no, i got longer tralling arms cause i thought that done the same thing with the pinion angle. how thick should the gear box cross member spacers be.

If you have them it can cause the lack of clearance. So u dont need them.
My guess you are going to need the rear crossmember notched. Its most likely due to the height of your truck

cheers for your help mate, sounds like a real pain in the arse job to notch the rear cross member

UTEGQ wrote:cheers for your help mate, sounds like a real pain in the arse job to notch the rear cross member

I think Superior engineering have a link on there site about doing it!

turbo gu wrote:

UTEGQ wrote:cheers for your help mate, sounds like a real pain in the arse job to notch the rear cross member

I think Superior engineering have a link on there site about doing it!

Where abouts would i find it, i can't seem to have any luck with there search option

keith????
oi mine rubs on that cross member to but it doesnt bang. . . . . . and ur drop boxs will be spacing the gearbox down by the thickness of the plate aswell, so 6-8mm's?!?!
sell it, u need a wagon anyways

Take the tailshaft out and heat crossmember whilst giving a few love taps.

ben88milo10 wrote:keith????
oi mine rubs on that cross member to but it doesnt bang. . . . . . and ur drop boxs will be spacing the gearbox down by the thickness of the plate aswell, so 6-8mm's?!?!
sell it, u need a wagon anyways

The drop boxes do the same as crossmember spacers!

As Vanbox said heat and tap!

I would just add some spacers to the rear gearbox mounts,mine has 5mm spacers and flipped tailshaft,it doesnt seem to affect engine allignment

If ur handy with a welder or know someone who is you could do what I did.
I got four 90 degree steam pipe bends from backwoods, chopped the crossmember and welded the bends in sending the cross member over the tail shaft, it now sits 20 mm below the body and my tailshaft can move up and down as far as it wants.
People will try and tell u that this will weaken the crossmember and stuff up the geometry but they dunno what they dribbling. So long as u tack a bar between the chassis to prevent it moving when u chop the member it's all sweet.

http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/p ... ts_id=7697

thiers a link on this superiorengineering sight it shows you how to notch the cross member for clearance
dunno if this helps

Ive heard men flipping the tailshaft around the other way, never done it myself but it looks as if it would work.

the longer trailing arms you got... are they lowers or uppers or both?
as if you only bought lowers, it will point the diff pinion down bringing ur tailshaft clearance lower too
get some adjustable uppers and rotate the diff up a little? just an alcohol fuelled idea hehe