Outer Limits 4x4 Board

havnt posted for years so ithought id post some pics of the buggy ive been building for the last 8 months, im getting close do driveable now. ill post a build thread when i get time
[img][/dimg]

FAIL!!! I CANT ATTACH PHOTOS!

UN-FAIL???

sweet fuel tank

i spy turbo engine specs?

sr20+t donk

yeh tank is for "testing purposes"

Do the thermo fans blow or suck?

Just asking because you don't want hot air blowing on the driver/navigator.

nice a 2 seater rear engined buggy!

more specs please.

sweet, I have always liked the idea of an SR in a buggy - weight is everything

I couldnt see a gearstick, so I assume auto?

not many more exciting specs. hilux diffs, trail gear hydro steer front and back,running a fwd auto box with cvs going to difs. rear diff has cut housing and turned centre 180 degrees.
37 in treps on sunnies,100in wheedbase,16in fox airshox, and a really bright paintjob!
thanks to carlton for cutting all my tabs and brackets!!
ill post more info and pics as i progress im hoping to be able to do some driving at the end of the month

M1S3RY wrote:Do the thermo fans blow or suck?

Just asking because you don't want hot air blowing on the driver/navigator.

they blow over the engine at the moment, but maby ill make it switchable for winter!!

keithprt wrote:

M1S3RY wrote:Do the thermo fans blow or suck?

Just asking because you don't want hot air blowing on the driver/navigator.

they blow over the engine at the moment, but maby ill make it switchable for winter!!

Pics of the FWD auto/CV shaft arrangement?

Looks great. Digging the colour scheme.

ill post some when i finish shafts, this weekend (hopefully)

Great to see another moon-buggy being built. I dig the FWD gearbox idea. Are you running a seperate transfer too or is the transaxle acting as the tcase?

just running the box with welded diff as transfer case i fear this will be the weakest link in my drive train, as the diff center is tiny, only time will tell!

sw1 wrote: I couldnt see a gearstick, so I assume auto?

Look at the third picture again.

Looks simple and clean very nice.
When you get a chance would really like to see some flex pics and some picture looking up its skirt to see where the drive shafts are running.

Is it fair to say that your set up is like driving around in 4 high all the time? Reason I ask is how do you think it will go climbing steep stuff, little motor pushing big tyres & no low range?
Not having a go, just interested.

i dont think it will be 4hi beceause if cvs were going to the factory pulsars wheels in a normal setup the cars max max speed would be say 120, but there going to the diffs which will reduce that max by 4to1 roughly, even with bigger tyres i think (hope) it should have enough gearing
i think?

sw1 wrote:Is it fair to say that your set up is like driving around in 4 high all the time? Reason I ask is how do you think it will go climbing steep stuff, little motor pushing big tyres & no low range?
Not having a go, just interested.

It'll actually be like driving around in 4 low all the time with 4.1 (ish) crawler gears. The gearbox works like normal then the diff acts as the transfer reduction. Most rear drive SR20's come with 4.11's so I'm assuming the front wheel drives are geared similarly. Add to that the further gear reduction at the diffs and it'll have a good crawl speed.

I wouldn't be too worried about the small SR20 diff as it'll only be dealing with 1/4 of the torque that the Lux diffs will see. That combined with the auto and a light buggy - should last a little while.

Great work on the build mate. The frame looks great and I love the idea of the front wheel drive box and diff.

The only thing to remember is that there is essentially a centre diff just like an 80 series cruiser .(is it an LSD or open center type FWD box you have?)

To make it diff locked you would need a spool in the diff (inside the FWD housing) or lock it with the MIG welder.

Are those rims actualy flipped/welded or just on back to front? I see they have the valve stem on the inside but they are flipped? whats up with that?

raptorthumper wrote:The only thing to remember is that there is essentially a centre diff just like an 80 series cruiser .(is it an LSD or open center type FWD box you have?)
To make it diff locked you would need a spool in the diff (inside the FWD housing) or lock it with the MIG welder.

Re-Read it he has already said the diff in the auto is welded up.

Thanks 91mav.

Agreed, nice build

You running 6" or 8" rams? doesnt look like its got much steering lock

6 inch ram, it stops about 10mm before the hubs hit the stops.
8 would have been to much ,plus 4ws i should be ok

If you used high steer arms the 6" would be perfect, but in your case I would have used the 8" and machined some stops up to slide over the ram shafts if your where worried about it. I use a single ended 8" ram for my rear steer with standard 60 series arms and it works fine. I would want all the lock I could get with rear steer or not.

very nice looking buggy mate looking forward to seeing more picks .want to build one my self one days aswell.

good advise, i used the 6 beceause it came in the kit i got from poly (about half the local price!) but i will def look at upgrading when i have $$$$$

thanx

i can steer!!!!!!!!!!!

one more

great looking buggy, how loud is the exhaust??

hilux_bondy_007 wrote:great looking buggy, how loud is the exhaust??

Wouldn't be very loud because the turbo would shut it up a fair bit. I like the twin seater rear engine style as apposed to a single, great for social wheeling.