Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all you rover nuts I am delving into the unkown here and after some oppinions.
I have the chance to get a rangie cheap with a 350 chev and turbo400 in it I was contemplating building it up to compete in winch challenges and the outback challenge.
What mods are needed and what parts do you guys recommend. Any input would be gratefull.
Thanks.
SAm

Startg with the obvious.
Diffs: lower ratio required and locking centres.
Both maxi drive and jac mac are the way to go here both supply heavy axles with there diff locks.
Jac mac also make a hypoid diff centre which uses hilux R&P giving greater selection of ratios and also much heavier axles.
Another option fit hilx centres to the RR housing and get jacmac axles and flanges.

CV's: 110 cv's can be fitted or toy ones can be fited into the rover housing.

Rear trailing arms: very light, replace with heavy duty and while you are at it move the pivit point upto tthe chassy and make them longer.

Front arms are ok but you could make longer and relocate pivit to chassy.

For that mater beef up all steering links.

Springs run something like 18 inch free lth x 220 lb in rear and 16.5x 180 in front, willl lift aprox 75mm over stock plenty other options available.
Jacob springs in Melb will make coils to any spec you want.

Regards
Michael.

Is there much to modifie to fit hilux centres and also what are Maxidrives and jac mac worth.
So generally they are a fairly good truck just need to strengthened in a few areas.
SAM

maxi drive also make different ratios for their lockers too at $1350 a set

honestly dont waste your money on upgrading the rover axles, i would swap in some 80 series stuff. upgraded rover stuff lasts great with a mild motor but with a 350 it will be hard to make it all last.

New prices for maxi stuff is on par with most aftermarket stuff of its nature. BUT, there are a few Rover specific wreckers with good stuff. I got a complete rear diff with a 28 spline maxi from Triumph Rover Spares for $1000 and a maxi 28 spline third and rear axles/actuators etc out of a 94 from AMV for $1100. The newer 3rd Im running in the rear without touching and it is faultless. The other one from Triumph I put new bearings in, bought new front axles from Maxi and early CV's from a wrecker and put it in the front. This ended up saving me about $2-3000 over the price of new stuff from MD. All that said and done if I knew then what I know now I would have gone airlockers in hilux 3rds and Jac Mac axles. It would cost a bit more but the better choice of gearing and greater strength would be a winner for the money, especially in a comp rig that is going to see a lot of loud pedal.

-truss the rover housings for the Outback sand/mud drag race
-dual shocks or remote res shocks for same
-roll cage
-twin alts - one 24 volt/triple-quad-quint batts for running mega lights and winch
- 24V high mount winch with freon cooling
- limited to 35" tires for OC so run MTR's and call it good
- extensive waterproofing including bilge pumps like whatshisname and Peter Reynolds in that shorty Patrol did
- flash arse GPS and mega dollar laptop
- strip everything but drivers and nav seats out, leave a steering wheel speedo and a couple of idiot lights for vitals (set the engine/cooling up well
and dont worry about it)
- as much HP as you can manage/afford
- find a nav that is really fit/get fit yourself if not already
- get lots of practise burying your rig in bottomless soup and winching it out.

Cheers
Daryl

footnote:
I have no experience with hilux thirds in rovers, outback challenge experience and have never entered a winch challenge. Hence all of the above statements are observations only and are probably of little more informative value than your average unsubstatiated opinion but you did ask...

All info to fit hilux centres can be found in rover section of POR bbs.

The bolt pattern is different - so drill and tap new stud holes.

The spigot on the hilux is smaller than the recess in rover housing - people just leave it as is.

Rover ring gear is 8.5", hilux is 8" but stronger R & P because it is hypoid (rover is spiral bevel).

Distance from mounting face to centreline of axles is the same - no mod.

Jack McNamara makes axles to suit hilux centre in rover (also stronger than rover stuff).

Like Adam said, you should consider swapping in complete 80 or 100 series axles.

Bushy whats POR bbs
I think it is a goer I let you know how the buildup goes.
I think I'll try and find some 80 serries dfiffs as I'msure the chev will break hilux stuff.
Any more info keep it coming thanks.
SAM

Sam PORBBS= www.pirate4x4.com
Dont tell me you have never been there before?

Ruff to be honest I have never looked at pirate but i think i will have a look.

Bad news the rules won't alow the swapping in of 80 series diffs so the Hilux option will be the way we go.

Is the Hilux CV significantly stronger [or cheaper] than the Rover one?

When they go do they take the inner axle with them?

[The Hilux CV is a one piece with the stub right? Not two bits like the early Rangie CV...???]

Bodge wrote:Is the Hilux CV significantly stronger [or cheaper] than the Rover one?

When they go do they take the inner axle with them?

[The Hilux CV is a one piece with the stub right? Not two bits like the early Rangie CV...???]

I dont think that the stock hilux CV is necessarily stronger than the rover one but the longfields (modified hilux cv from the US) definately are. Down side is that the hilux cv use a smaller dia axle (than a 23 spline rover cv) into them which then becomes the weak point. So you may end up breaking ou expensive custom allow inner axles instead.

The longfield guy is no longfielding rover CVs so this may be a stronger opion yet. Although again because the rover CV uses a bigger inner axle he still may still have trouble with star failures which will again take out the inner axle. But time will tell as a few US guys are only just starting to run the longfielded rover CVs.


And yep its a one piece setup with a 30 spline stub axle.

Sam

I will be betting the Rover just after XRCC(mainly so that I get the Zook finished first)So I'll let you all know how the build up goes I thinki there is an event in june so I will aim to have it ready by then.
Thanks for all you help.
SAM

Hey Sam u been havin a go at me from defectin from zook now look wat your doin a landy geeeeez

Yeh but I need something to tow the ZOOK around with.

overkill wrote:Bad news the rules won't alow the swapping in of 80 series diffs so the Hilux option will be the way we go.

Sam
What class are you entering.
Challenge class allows any diff you like according to the rules on their site.
http://www.outbackchallenge.com/CrossCountryRules.html

3.0.3 Axles

Axle housing options are unlimited except for drop axles. Axles may be protected.

Axle internal components are unlimited and extension breathers may be fitted.



Cheers
Daryl

Adam wrote:honestly dont waste your money on upgrading the rover axles, i would swap in some 80 series stuff. upgraded rover stuff lasts great with a mild motor but with a 350 it will be hard to make it all last.

maxi drive make strong axles for both front and rear, mal story the owner of maxidrive is happy to see 500hp over his axles and lockers. the ratio you need if runing 35s is 4.1 and these sare available over the counter, for rear diff buy a unit from a defender, these diffs are salisbury and are the same internal size as a dana 60 the onlt diff is the crown wheel bolt up pattern. if you intend to run in the outback challenge you will need off the shelf parts so you are not out of the race because you can't get parts. the rover suspension raised over 2" is a night mare for handling and is generally not needed for clearance. the rover is fiarly clean undervthe body so just use bash plates and keep the centre of gavity low. there are lots of little tricks to make these cars go well.

glen

I was only going on what I had been told about theaxles.
I will probably get the car in a week or two now that the buggy is finished and start modifing.
Thanks for all your help.

Okay you ROVER nuts time to get dirty.
I recieved the Rangie today and am going to start cutting on the weekend. Still have a few questions that may have been answered in other threads.
1. where do you get 15/8 inch rims do other makes fit.
2. I need both front axles to get the thing running in four wheel drive who is a good wrecker in Sydney to get bits off.

Does any one have a set of maxi's for sale.

1. where do you get 15/8 inch rims do other makes fit.

I think Glen (v8grunt) has some for sale (maybe 15x8.5)

Other makes don't fit unless you can put another centre in or redrill the stud holes


2. I need both front axles to get the thing running in four wheel drive who is a good wrecker in Sydney to get bits off.

Sorry don't know - someone on here should have an old set of std axles lying around


Does any one have a set of maxi's for sale.

Good luck trying to find 2nd hand Maxis - If you find some I am looking for a RR rear.

Have a rear maxi drive for sale but with hypoid gears in it.

Might help

Also I had a look at the conversion for the Chev last night and they have used rover rubber mounts does anyone make a stronger mount or is it easier to convert to chev mounts.
I cut the rear quarters off today and are fitting the springs and some 35's so I can go and have a play on the weekend.
I'll post some photo's when I get a chance.
Thanks
SAM

You can use Jag mounts which are the same design only bigger. Also Rovacraft here in WA stocks mounts which are a combination of a steel mount with a rubber cushion (QT I think) I would say they would be very strong and is certainly what will go on mine if the Jag ones give up

LOCKY wrote:Have a rear maxi drive for sale but with hypoid gears in it.

Might help

What ratio? Is it complete? What inner axle splines?

Sam, check these 3 threads on POR BB. Good info on fitting toy centres, longfields and Jack McNamarra axles in rover axle housings.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... oyota+diff

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... genumber=1

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... did=135870

BTW did you get some axles? I can pull some stock axles if you want them to get mobile.

Thanks Bushy I got some axles and got the beast running. Took it up to Freemans today and gave it a hiding I was surprised how well it went unlocked and in the mud. I fitted 2 inch springs did wsome gaurd trimming and put some old 35 bfg's on and it was fun I think the chev probably helped that. It broke another engine mount though so that will be the next mod to fix up.
I may have some jac mac equiped diffs for it with 4.7 ratio's and lockers then I will start competing in a few winch events.
SAM

hey sam u can weld tags on the mounts iv been told dont know how true it is all the guys in ur club do it to thear GQs if u are looking for another landy i am selling a ser 3 ute with a 250 crossflow in it for around 1800

G'day Sam,

Sounds like you have a fine beast on your hands.

I assume the mounts you are talking about is the standard 3.5L V8 type. Round and made of rubber and steel, although not very big ?

The Jag iteams should work well, have you thought about looking into a diesel engine mount? as they are strong. I'm not sure which type to use though, probably something not rover.

I'm assuming the diff's are standard 3.54 unit's??

let us know how it goes

I will be in next week...."Guru Mal"

PS when you find some rim's 15/8 get me some please, As I need the same type on my project 90