Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Been building this car for the last 2 months just thought you might be interested in a look.
Specs: LS1, T700, Atlas, Spiders with Reids ends, fox coil overs, bumps and bypasses. 40" tyres.

Certainly some good quality work being done, very nice tube work .
It will be good to see it when it's finished.
Mick

Daily updates - http://www.facebook.com/pages/Superior- ... 9670614605" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

nice, whens her first race?

Very nice Matt, so yeah when is the shakedown date set for ??



brooksy

Sexy as.

Can any one tell me what sort of costs are involved and which suppliers are best for getting a set of built Dana60's/Spider9's/Corporate14bolt?

What sort of options and components would you use for each manufacturers axle end to end and at what cost?

I've been following the Ultra4 scene a little and it really seems the way to go as far as axle strength. Everyone here wanks on about what they do and what they spend to make their Jap axles stronger and it seems you could just go to D60's/spiders the first time, spend a little more (but not a huge amount) and have something that will run 44's to 48's all day long and not even sneeze.

Can't wait to see this come together. Will be sweet as.



Probably a dumbass question but what's going on with that A-pillar node?

Very sweet work

rockcrawler31 wrote:Sexy as.

Can any one tell me what sort of costs are involved and which suppliers are best for getting a set of built Dana60's/Spider9's/Corporate14bolt?

What sort of options and components would you use for each manufacturers axle end to end and at what cost?

I've been following the Ultra4 scene a little and it really seems the way to go as far as axle strength. Everyone here wanks on about what they do and what they spend to make their Jap axles stronger and it seems you could just go to D60's/spiders the first time, spend a little more (but not a huge amount) and have something that will run 44's to 48's all day long and not even sneeze.

talk to brooksy off here for some built ballistic gear, or z()ltan off here just got some built danas off here from locktup

sorry hijack off....

rockcrawler31 wrote:Sexy as.

Can any one tell me what sort of costs are involved and which suppliers are best for getting a set of built Dana60's/Spider9's/Corporate14bolt?

What sort of options and components would you use for each manufacturers axle end to end and at what cost?

I've been following the Ultra4 scene a little and it really seems the way to go as far as axle strength. Everyone here wanks on about what they do and what they spend to make their Jap axles stronger and it seems you could just go to D60's/spiders the first time, spend a little more (but not a huge amount) and have something that will run 44's to 48's all day long and not even sneeze.

not sure what sort of dana/high nine you could build for 2 grand, considering that's all you need to spend to make the strongest available jap axle (60 series diff, longfield superset, carrier replacement type locker such as an arb). not saying dana's and that stuff doesn't have their place, but we're not talking the same ballpark figure.

that, and who runs more than 44's regularly? plus don't forget the diff clearance difference on a dana (not so much the 9 inch)

More Photo's will post some more next week.

Should be racing at King of the Rim.
Still waiting on a few parts from the US, rear axles and CTM's and bypass - but their on their way. Mocking it up with patrol diffs just in case there is a hold up on the parts from the US.

rockcrawler31 wrote:Sexy as.

Can any one tell me what sort of costs are involved and which suppliers are best for getting a set of built Dana60's/Spider9's/Corporate14bolt?

What sort of options and components would you use for each manufacturers axle end to end and at what cost?

I've been following the Ultra4 scene a little and it really seems the way to go as far as axle strength. Everyone here wanks on about what they do and what they spend to make their Jap axles stronger and it seems you could just go to D60's/spiders the first time, spend a little more (but not a huge amount) and have something that will run 44's to 48's all day long and not even sneeze.

I would not run dana 60 centres
1. There is a clearance problem
2. if it breaks in a race its a prick to fix, if a nine inch breaks you unbolt it and put another one in.

Look on Spider's website as they are happy to deal with Aussie's direct.
The Spider C's are a bit of a high maintenance thing but price and availability and service is good.
I bought a lot of parts when I was in the US and Spider were by far the best to deal with.
I tried buying them locally in Australia but it was all to hard, so i bought everything I needed to built the buggy from the US.
I learnt a lot when I was in the US and this is why I am using this setup in the front.

So cool seeing this stuff built in Oz. Look forward to seeing the rest of the buildup.

Matt wrote:More Photo's will post some more next week.

Should be racing at King of the Rim.

What class? I most certainly hope yer' feckin not in modified coz that's me farked then. I'll see you there, keep an eye out for the big red troopy.

Matt wrote:
I would not run dana 60 centres
1. There is a clearance problem
Not being funny, just curious and wanting to learn. But aren't both the D60's and the Hi9's both a massive centre?

2. if it breaks in a race its a prick to fix, if a nine inch breaks you unbolt it and put another one in.
Again not being intimately familiar with either, what makes it harder to fix than the nine?

Look on Spider's website as they are happy to deal with Aussie's direct.
The Spider C's are a bit of a high maintenance thing but price and availability and service is good.
I bought a lot of parts when I was in the US and Spider were by far the best to deal with.
I tried buying them locally in Australia but it was all to hard, so i bought everything I needed to built the buggy from the US.
I learnt a lot when I was in the US and this is why I am using this setup in the front.

So knowing that all the spider gear is all custom gear and "could" get up there for a complete set up, whereas the you could get a junker D60 from a wreckers and do a basic refurbishment along with chromolly innners, CTM's and outers. Would you say that the D60 is best bang for buck if you're not going full on with massive tyres or just go the spider stuff?

rockcrawler31 wrote:

Matt wrote:More Photo's will post some more next week.

Should be racing at King of the Rim.

What class? I most certainly hope yer' feckin not in modified coz that's me farked then. I'll see you there, keep an eye out for the big red troopy.

Matt wrote:
I would not run dana 60 centres
1. There is a clearance problem
Not being funny, just curious and wanting to learn. But aren't both the D60's and the Hi9's both a massive centre?

2. if it breaks in a race its a prick to fix, if a nine inch breaks you unbolt it and put another one in.
Again not being intimately familiar with either, what makes it harder to fix than the nine?

Look on Spider's website as they are happy to deal with Aussie's direct.
The Spider C's are a bit of a high maintenance thing but price and availability and service is good.
I bought a lot of parts when I was in the US and Spider were by far the best to deal with.
I tried buying them locally in Australia but it was all to hard, so i bought everything I needed to built the buggy from the US.
I learnt a lot when I was in the US and this is why I am using this setup in the front.

So knowing that all the spider gear is all custom gear and "could" get up there for a complete set up, whereas the you could get a junker D60 from a wreckers and do a basic refurbishment along with chromolly innners, CTM's and outers. Would you say that the D60 is best bang for buck if you're not going full on with massive tyres or just go the spider stuff?

Hi9's are not much bigger than a patrol. Dana 60 is a big cast lump of poop unless you have some crazy high clearanced ground shaved or custom rock jock.
a 9" is a drop out centre like a nissan so therefore you can have a spare centre already assembled.
a dana is assembled in the diff housing, therefore its not a drop out centre and must be repaired in the car.
all the rock crawlers that i have seen with a dana 60 in them have broken, bar Crampy's. If you break a dana your out.
i don't think you will get a junker dana 60 as you will need a flat top one to mount your hi-steer and most of them have ball joints in the C's. So again you are tooling around with junk.

Thanks mate. Great info.

Sounds a bit like the Corporate 14bolt i have then with the danas. Pretty strong but again have to build inside the housing.

Thanks for the info.

member for 9 years and this is your tenth post.

Love your work...

I'm running a truHi9 in a trussed ruffstuff housing with solid spindles,arb locker and 35 spline chromo axels.
The import duty kills you so just be aware.

I'm thinking of building a skid plate to protect the yoke and avoid any hookups, just interested in what you have planned.

cheers smitty

Matt that looks very cool, a lot like a Randy Slawson Bomber fab buggy

hey matt,
My rover has D60s both steer diffs, both are stuffed with ctm shafts and unis aswell as arb airlockers, 5.38 gear ratio and runs to a 3.8 ratio atlas 2, the front is shaved with a custom diff cover and the rear is standard with a solid cap, my steering is significantly high with the front ram mounted on the rear of the front diff swivelling off the swivel housing to my steer arm and the rear diff the same, is there much more i can do to improve my housings? steer knuckles, swivel housings, centres etc? id also like to be competitive in king of the rim! will my ratios be a problem speed wise? ive found its no slouch with getting up and going but never really wound it out in high range? being an injected 350 chev it certainly sounds the goods? water temp sticks around 105 and thats on and off the rev limiter for a few minutes, look forward to your reply

Cheers
Jake McDowall

hugezook wrote:hey matt,
id also like to be competitive in king of the rim!
Jake McDowall

Mate you're already a step ahead of me running the 60's and 350 compared to my toy stuff and 4.2 diesel.

i think u'll find it is in a different class, its not a normal rover

Jake, sounds good mate!
If your on the limiter in low range, put it in high and hit some jumps and bumps on the limiter, see how you go.
That is what I would do. I look forward to your reply

Smitty, Did not have any plans for yoke protection, but it sounds like a good idea. I'll see how I go for time.


Turbo 45, Yeah mate, I helped Randy and Ben for a couple of weeks before Hammers. I'm running same front end (diff) as Randy's and very similar frame. Just added a few more tubes. I'm scared of the trees.

Matt Dunk

Matt that is cool, wondering with the coilover mocked up on the lower rear link what sort of ends are you using to stop link rotation? i see on the diff end you have big rod ends.
not ripping on your stuff just wondering what are your thoughts on this?
It is cool to see such high qaulity parts and fab in Aus.
cheers Wes.

Looking great Makes me wonder why I stopped building mine arrrgghhhh! I have a chassis here if anyone wants one!
What do you plan on racing in?? - that was the main reason I quit my project.
I think cliffhanger is the only event, and as far as I can work out you can't race off road racing - although a similar vehicle is racing in WA due to the smaller classes.


Regards

Justin

Presuming he builds within the rules (no coolant through the frame rails like this one seems to have, etc), why couldn't he race this at one of the big off road races in Aus? Sure he'd have to run open class tho

The steering wheel is on the wrong side mate. Its gonna turn left when you wanna turn right! Looks good Matt you have the Redneck stamp of approval.

tuf045 wrote:Matt that is cool, wondering with the coilover mocked up on the lower rear link what sort of ends are you using to stop link rotation? i see on the diff end you have big rod ends.
not ripping on your stuff just wondering what are your thoughts on this?
It is cool to see such high qaulity parts and fab in Aus.
cheers Wes.

You can use a polyurethane bushing on the chassis end of the link, a Wobble stopper type devise on the chassis end heim or UHMW pucks on the link end of the shock eye to keep the link from rolling. These have all proven effective.

are these what you were reffering to in regards to d60s being hard to work on during events being that the diff is not removable with the hat? are these similar to what your going to be running freckle?
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=995467" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

hugezook wrote:are these what you were reffering to in regards to d60s being hard to work on during events being that the diff is not removable with the hat? are these similar to what your going to be running freckle?
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=995467" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Those are hybrids huge. The centers and housings are ford 9" and the outer knuckles/C's are Dana.

A full Dana housing has a set of axle tubes pressed into a cast center housing into which the guts of the diff bolts.

At least that's my limited knowledge of it.

Matt how much more is involved in doing TIG on chromolly vs mild? Is it just a matter of adding a bit of pre and post heat with a rosebud tip or do you just go ahead and weld it and let it air cool? What filler rod and gas mix are you using?

Yeah i know mate, i got dana 60s myself, but looking at eliminating rear steer and building a rig similar to this, and am seriously considering these particular diffs as im sure id be able to sell dana 60 steer diffs with all hydro, airlockers, 5.38 gears and ctm axles and unis for a neat price!
Matt - How much was your pallet of gear from the states over to here worth? just wondering as im keen to do the same!!

Kind Regards
Jake McDowall

napsta wrote:Presuming he builds within the rules (no coolant through the frame rails like this one seems to have, etc), why couldn't he race this at one of the big off road races in Aus? Sure he'd have to run open class tho

Yeah ben this has all been worked out we need to run a body to race over here and that will put us in the extrem 4x4 class but the body cant be shorter or skinnier than the production 4x4 its meant to represent this is the only class we can run our ultra4 cars in over here no other class will alow 4WD or custom tube buggy . So basicly we need to find a fibreglass vitara zook body that is stanard width we are talking to Randy ( Jimmys 4x4 ) bout it so if you know of anything over there let me know.

Nick