Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok so the big is starting to bite again and hopefully soon i will be able to afford a project rig.

i am somewhat bothered by the thought, it should be an old rangie. i'm a Toyota guy from way back, so why do i keep coming back to the thought of having a 4dr rangie with chopped guards and 38" creepys as my next project?

did i spend too much time around the likes of Micka, Grimace, Nottie (RIP) and Def90 and now i can't escape it, or is it a smart move?

sure, they seem cheap enough to obtain, Grimace???? but seriously, how much am i going to have to spend to be able to beat the pooper out of it on a weekend and not constantly break stuff?
Are MaxiDrive and RoverTrax the only aftermarket parts worthwhile adding? Is the 60 se4ries diff swap a must (with longs) or what? I don't know much about them really except they look cool all beaten up and the V8's sound wicked with a nice exhaust, so what should my plan be for something capable for as cheap as possible. Just a trail rig, not wasting time with comps ever again.

any advice from the Rover oracle would be very much appreciated, on year models, model types etc.

cheers Chris

Do it dude!

Seriously, I could break it down to a individual parts list for you.
But basically the most expense is in the differentials. You will need rover tracks axles, toy centres, and ARB lockers all adds up to well over the cost of the vehicle.
If your only going to run 37s then you just need to get happy with the grinder. For 38s or stickies you will need a 1" body lift.
The tyres will rub hard but it really doesnt matter, unless your into high speed and jumping.
As for suspension, a set of 3" springs are cheap as. Cranked front arms and haltech holey bushes can be obtained on the cheap. Any form of reinforced rear links are needed.
Extended bump stops are advised
Raise the rear shock mounts and cram in some 12" travel shocks, in the front a pair of 10" travels will be enough.
Drive shafts should be fine.
A lt230 with single peice cross shaft is plenty strong.
The engine and autos (T700) are strong enough. sure the later ZF autos are all in need of rebuild at some stage but they are getting cheaper.
Retain the springs, cut the guards to the max! and get a set of 16x8 dynamic wheels with -25 offset and the rubber of your choice.
You could do all the above for around 10G and then wheel the piss out of it.
It will have a more even amount of flex front to rear. It will have better clearance then a pootrol, more power, better gearing (although the autos do run away on hills), same sort of economy.

At the end of the day you have been out wheelin with us rover guys enough to see just how good a rover beater can be. I can assure you no pootrol with similar specs will cover the terrain with as much ease as the rover. It's fact. Sure they have the reliability spooks about them and sure they can be a pain in the fuggen arse and make you want to beat a handful of hampsters against a solid brick wall for an hour, but when your wheelin in them you really appreciate it. Its all worth it.

Another bonus is they are easy to work on. Parts are CHEAP, and you don't have to wear a flat brim hat to drive one!

Stay safe, and keep in touch.

Cheers
Grimace

what year model is Fluffy?

do they come with injected 3.9l v8? or are they only available in the Discos?

Roctoy Designfab wrote:what year model is Fluffy?

do they come with injected 3.9l v8? or are they only available in the Discos?

Fluffy is a 1990.
In 1986 they got the injected 3.5 with the zf auto
Early 89 they went to a viscous tcase (needs to be swapped for a LT230)
Late 89 they got the 3.9L V8

Edit: If it were just a beater i'd recommend a 88 model with the 3.5L and ZF auto and LT230.
Add a 2.5" zorst to my list of to dos above.
The 3.5 is IMHO just as good as the 3.9 (they are all slow )

Basically something like Micka had (Bob)... Should have keep it as a rec wheeler eh Micka

edit2: Initial purchase price of the car should be $1000, no more... Just make everyone and anyone an offer!

sweet man, that's exactly what i had in mind, something like Bob, before he destroyed it....

Roctoy Designfab wrote:ok so the big is starting to bite again and hopefully soon i will be able to afford a project rig.

i am somewhat bothered by the thought, it should be an old rangie. i'm a Toyota guy from way back, so why do i keep coming back to the thought of having a 4dr rangie with chopped guards and 38" creepys as my next project?

did i spend too much time around the likes of Micka, Grimace, Nottie (RIP) and Def90 and now i can't escape it, or is it a smart move?

sure, they seem cheap enough to obtain, Grimace???? but seriously, how much am i going to have to spend to be able to beat the pooper out of it on a weekend and not constantly break stuff?
Are MaxiDrive and RoverTrax the only aftermarket parts worthwhile adding? Is the 60 se4ries diff swap a must (with longs) or what? I don't know much about them really except they look cool all beaten up and the V8's sound wicked with a nice exhaust, so what should my plan be for something capable for as cheap as possible. Just a trail rig, not wasting time with comps ever again.

any advice from the Rover oracle would be very much appreciated, on year models, model types etc.

cheers Chris

when the big bites buy a rangie serioulsy either rovertracks and get your toyo hit from the centers or 80 series/GQ diff swap? or hunt down a salisbury and and do it up for the rear and graft some outers on and do salisbury front, the 60 series diffs are too narrow, u'll have to run some uber big spacers to get your track back, do it...u know u want to....

def90 wrote:

Roctoy Designfab wrote:ok so the big is starting to bite again and hopefully soon i will be able to afford a project rig.

i am somewhat bothered by the thought, it should be an old rangie. i'm a Toyota guy from way back, so why do i keep coming back to the thought of having a 4dr rangie with chopped guards and 38" creepys as my next project?

did i spend too much time around the likes of Micka, Grimace, Nottie (RIP) and Def90 and now i can't escape it, or is it a smart move?

sure, they seem cheap enough to obtain, Grimace???? but seriously, how much am i going to have to spend to be able to beat the pooper out of it on a weekend and not constantly break stuff?
Are MaxiDrive and RoverTrax the only aftermarket parts worthwhile adding? Is the 60 se4ries diff swap a must (with longs) or what? I don't know much about them really except they look cool all beaten up and the V8's sound wicked with a nice exhaust, so what should my plan be for something capable for as cheap as possible. Just a trail rig, not wasting time with comps ever again.

any advice from the Rover oracle would be very much appreciated, on year models, model types etc.

cheers Chris

when the big bites buy a rangie serioulsy either rovertracks and get your toyo hit from the centers or 80 series/GQ diff swap? or hunt down a salisbury and and do it up for the rear and graft some outers on and do salisbury front, the 60 series diffs are too narrow, u'll have to run some uber big spacers to get your track back, do it...u know u want to....

OR a disco 1? Theres a fella (micka87) tossing up fixing his or selling it in another thread and its already twin locked with an exhaust etc. Its a v8 in need of a head gasket and stuffed clutch. you could prob get it for a song and go to town on it. I know they are a bit more of a hassle to fit 37's but they are essentially the same thing underneath. just a thought

Either way you cant go wrong with a beater rover! mines an 01 that looks at least like a 89 these days haha

no offence that kid, but discos just dont perform like rangies and defenders offroad, i know underneath they are same same, but they are a PITA to get decent tyres under, they're tall and dont have 'that' factor. i've never wheeled with a disco that can hold it with a fender or rangie.


BTW your D2 is pretty cool

def90 wrote:no offence that kid, but discos just dont perform like rangies and defenders offroad, i know underneath they are same same, but they are a PITA to get decent tyres under, they're tall and dont have 'that' factor. i've never wheeled with a disco that can hold it with a fender or rangie.


BTW your D2 is pretty cool

Hey mate no offence taken! I only suggested the d1 as another memeber was considering selling what sounds like a decent rig for cheap. I personally hate the d1's! Only reason i have a d2 is it came up way to cheap to pass up at the time, and i was a newb on the 4x4 scene and didnt know any better! All i cared was it was a landy.If i had my time over again i wouldnt have broken my leg, id have bought the 110 i had lined up at the time and the D2 would never have entered the picture.

Good save with paying props to the disco too btw haha! Once its a ute we'll have that pissing contest and hopefully i can keep up! I totally agree about the height and tire issues too although i have a set of flares "claimed" to fit 37's under her.

Sorry mate didnt mean to go too far Off topic! like i said who cares what it is as long its from LR.

If the 60 series are full floating, why not custom build some wider....make them the width you want and get some shafts made......

thats also i possibility i have thought of that too, and know a bloke who can do both

The main benefit of the toy conversion is you still have plenty of clearance.
IMHO the rover/toy gear can be and is strong enough for a simple beater on 37s.
Most of the time you can't make an obstacle or get stuck is due to clearance, and to get the same amount of differential clearance from a late model rover housing running 37s, you need 40" inch tyres on the 60series diffs.
Now taking into consideration that Chris is now in melbs and a majority of there trails involve ruts and mud, strength wont be as much of an issue as clearance.
So I guess if your looking to run larger then 37s (and can get them to fit) under a full body rover then some wider 60series diffs or sals is the way to go, but if not then the toy conversion is the answer.

Anyways back on track... Have you got one yet???
Pics, wheeled it? what broke... overheated, busted crown wheel???

nah i haven't got one yet, got to sell a couple of cars first, just planning the next steps.

on a side note, i could always use some bubs housings with 80 series gear.

Roctoy Designfab wrote:nah i haven't got one yet, got to sell a couple of cars first, just planning the next steps.

on a side note, i could always use some bubs housings with 80 series gear.

I'd seriously consider this option.

Rangies are massive kool. Probably too kool for someone who put a rotary in a vitara buggy. You'll be amazed at the difference to the crappy-arse leaf spring shit you're used to driving.

Do it biatch.

Micka wrote:Do it biatch.

i've already downloaded a heap of pics of Bob to go off that's the sort of look i'm after.
now i've just got to sell the Lux.

Are you still in QLD, Go for a Rangie the is 30 year old and get club rego, about rego Scrapper this week I think it has cost about $6k to build it, but I went the Rovertracks path, should have gone 80 series rear and GU front would have been cheaper

i'm in VIC now Damo, so it will probably be street legal down here anyway

Club rego is vintage and just cheaper about $200 a year for a v8

How well do the GQ diffs fit under a 85 Rangy and how well do they fit under a 95 disco? How do they go for width? Also wouldn't a 80 series rear have a better offset?

V.W.Dave wrote:How well do the GQ diffs fit under a 85 Rangy and how well do they fit under a 95 disco? How do they go for width? Also wouldn't a 80 series rear have a better offset?

rangie and disco have the same chassis, so would go under the same

6.5 rangie wrote:

V.W.Dave wrote:How well do the GQ diffs fit under a 85 Rangy and how well do they fit under a 95 disco? How do they go for width? Also wouldn't a 80 series rear have a better offset?

rangie and disco have the same chassis, so would go under the same

I am asking how well they fit under them.

They fit really well my 90 rangie has 80 series rear and GQ front had a GQ rear but was shit house with vibrations front is almost a straight fit and the 80 series rear needs A frame bracket and trailing arms bracket welded on
and run 4:11 gears

BOBTAIL IT !











But I'm biased