Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Noticed a big patch of oil under the 80 yesterday so I crawled under and took a look to find all the bolts loosened off the steering knuckle arm. One of the threads had actually loosened out and the other 3 nuts were loose. I done them up tight but ever since oil has been pissing out of the steering nuckle. Also the bolts were loose again this arvo when I inspected. I have only just done the swivel hub kit about 6 months ago from memory. What would cause this and what have others done to fix it.

Here is a couple of pics

Ive seen this with the cheaper kits off ebay. Its time to do the hubs again and clean out the threads, bolts etc really well. Ive never needed locktight on a hub but you might find it helps especially if the bolts have been loose and worn the holes a little. Locktight doesnt like oil or grease either. Oil means the inner seal has gone so you need to pull it all apart to fix anyway. Grease wont do that.

Where is the inner seal located and how do I get to it, please dont say pull the diff out. It was off ebay but is a terrain Tamer kit.

If you meant this it was done also with the kit.

Did you reuse your old shims on top and bottom of the kingpin bearings or the ones that came with the kit?? sounds like the hub may not be centered or because of the lose kingpin bolts the knuckles might have slopped around. I'd replace inner axle seal and kingpin bearings. Would be good to get the shims correct to center ya hub.

Willy Hilux wrote:Did you reuse your old shims on top and bottom of the kingpin bearings or the ones that came with the kit?? sounds like the hub may not be centered or because of the lose kingpin bolts the knuckles might have slopped around. I'd replace inner axle seal and kingpin bearings. Would be good to get the shims correct to center ya hub.

Yep done kingpin bearings and cups, but not 100% on shims.

ive had this problem with my 80 series front diff in my 75, i was told to replace all the bearings and the shims etc, ended up doing that twice, in the end i changed over the hole assembley on the passengers side and the problem went away, i think once the bolts and collets on the bottom became loose it just bent some thing and was never the same, ever since then ive never had the problem

rob

75 cruser wrote:ive had this problem with my 80 series front diff in my 75, i was told to replace all the bearings and the shims etc, ended up doing that twice, in the end i changed over the hole assembley on the passengers side and the problem went away, i think once the bolts and collets on the bottom became loose it just bent some thing and was never the same, ever since then ive never had the problem

rob

Cheers mate, did you pick one up from a wreckers or buy a new one? Mind me asking how much it cost you?

make sure the threads and holes are in good nick.
make sure you tighten the bolts/cone washers to the correct torque specs with a torque wrench

how much lift are you running? more lift puts more stress on the left side steering arm.

80's_delirious wrote:make sure the threads and holes are in good nick.
make sure you tighten the bolts/cone washers to the correct torque specs with a torque wrench

how much lift are you running? more lift puts more stress on the left side steering arm.

4 inch .
Well I gave them a good tighten with my torque wrench yesterday arvo an they are still tight, has slowed the leak to but seal would be busted, frustrating as its only a new one.

Will prob pull it all apart next tuesday and have a better look, where would I get new shims from and how do I know the correct ones to use.

stilivn wrote:

80's_delirious wrote:make sure the threads and holes are in good nick.
make sure you tighten the bolts/cone washers to the correct torque specs with a torque wrench

how much lift are you running? more lift puts more stress on the left side steering arm.

4 inch .
Well I gave them a good tighten with my torque wrench yesterday arvo an they are still tight, has slowed the leak to but seal would be busted, frustrating as its only a new one.

Will prob pull it all apart next tuesday and have a better look, where would I get new shims from and how do I know the correct ones to use.

You would have to make up the tooling or take it to Toyota to get it done properly. Check out a service manual as it should show you in there.

Arn't the shims only on the top and just used for setting the preload on the kingpin bearings? I was following a workshop manual when I did mine and when it came to putting the shims in i had to use a spring scale to turn the steering knuckle and get the right resistance using different thickness shims.

The shims also centre the swivel housing relative to the axle housing, and therefore the inner axle shaft to the inner axle shaft seal. When the axle isnt concentric to the seal, the seal will leak. Marlin has a better than factory seal that might be worth installing. http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front ... -seal-fj80" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Marlin also have the tools to do the job (hilux one anyway) but have a look and read up on it.



The Toyota Knuckle Alignment Tool is finally here! It is important to know what shims to run when rebuilding your front knuckles, and this Special Service Tool from Toyota is the authentic way to get the job done. The shims control the alignment of your knuckle with your axle housing. If not shimmed properlly, then your birfields, inner axle seals, spindle bushings and locking hubs will be out of alignment and will experience excessive wear and may even bind. Don't let this happen to your investment! Take out all the guess work and save yourself time and money with this Genuine Toyota Service Tool.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/hardware-t ... nment-tool" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

cheers guys, 200 buck is a bit but I guess how frequent I pull the hubs down It would prob earn its worth .

vk7ybi wrote: Marlin has a better than factory seal that might be worth installing. http://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/front ... -seal-fj80" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Im going to order some of these this weekend, postage is 38 bucks so If anyone else wants some and is keen to split postage let me know. They are currently $8.99 each.

You could probably get some at Locktup?

Yeah for 40 bucks a set.

i got axel seals ,rock rings and longfields wiper seals and the shipping was only around $15 from http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/yotamain.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

McLarryBob wrote:Arn't the shims only on the top and just used for setting the preload on the kingpin bearings? I was following a workshop manual when I did mine and when it came to putting the shims in i had to use a spring scale to turn the steering knuckle and get the right resistance using different thickness shims.

Being a 80 series i think your right (no shims on the bottom)The shims are just for preload but he does need a new axle seal.

There is alot more to it than just preload, you also need to ensure the knuckles are aligned. They do shims for top and bottom from what I have been reading, done a fair bit of research on Pirate and ih8mud.

Went into toyota to get some shims as cant find anywhere else and they want $8 each might find out what I need first. Also enquired about the SST knuckle alignment tool that was bout $112 back in 2008 its now $365 so im getting a quote on making one a guy has put up on pirate.



More on that here for anyone interested.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734345" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Will also post up cost once I get the quote, am having it made out of plastic by NIMROD plastics in west gosford

If anyone knows where I can get shims from cheaper please let me know, Bursons and repco both dont carry them, or my local bearings shop.

how many shims do you need? $8each isnt a lot if you only need a few. Cheaper than flogging out oil seals

Most people say 4 per side so thats $62 or I can get the marlin kit with seals and shims for $59 so might go that way if I cant get them cheaper