Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Time to purchase a radiator to suit the 304 Holden V8 thats going in the 40. Plan is to run the engine driven fan and build a proper shroud to suit. Will also be a auto, with a cooler for it in front if that makes a difference too.

I was going to go alloy, but my mate that runs a radiator shop is trying to talk me out of it (too hard to repair, more likely to fail, electrolisis, etc etc). Same mate talked me out of a alloy one for the 4runner when the lexus V8 went in it, and while custom sized/built copper/brass radiator did the job in the 4runner 95% of the time...fully loaded on the beach, it didnt. I dont want this to happen this time around, though am guessing a 5.0l v8 in a 40 with a engine driven fan will be easier to keep cool over a tight fitting lexus v8 4runner with a 16" push thermo.

Overall my preference would be for a Copper/Brass one in the standard mounting frame, but I dont want cooling issues, so happy for custom mounts if the need arrises. (Have seen cool setups on Pirate4x4 for mounting the alloy ones)

So.......

Who's running alloy radiators? Happy with them, any problems? any feedback would be great.

Also, any V8 40 owners, what setup is working for you?

Thanks.

I ran a ADC Ali unit for the first couple of years on my 304, it was terrible, could not handle traffic or lo range work on warm days. I got tired of worrying about the temp and had a Toyota V6 Rad rebuilt with 4 cores and 38mm inlet and outlet, haven't looked back since. I run a 72 deg thermostat and it gets to 82 deg on bad days in traffic, the thermo fan takes care of things during long lo range climbs on hot days.

Stick to copper/brass in my experience. Plus if you already have the copper Rad it should only cost about $450 to build one like mine.

Engine driven fan is the go. They are like 4kw of fan - compared to very little thermo watts.
I ran one with the 350 chev in the bundera and it was fine. It was a brass fj45 unit from memory.
Never got hot once

cheers bru

Standard 40 Radiator with 16" thermo and custom shroud... Never gets over 90 deg.

not a 40 and dfifferent V8, but in my 90 i had a single spal 16" thermo and it got hot by looking at it, changed to twin AU thermos and i have never had it hot since, summer long drives in soft sand at fraser, low range work for hours on end no probs.

3 core normal copper radiator, and not very wide

Not sure what year your 40 is but i have the later = larger std copper/brass radiator with a engine driven 7 blade flex fan and a custom made fiberglass fan shroud setup correctly not just a fan in a shroud or a fan near a shroud. This setup is on a worked 351 cleveland never had any problems with overheating, plenty of sand driving and highway work.
A good alloy radiator should do the job if matched with a good shroud and fan combo also they have the advantage of larger passages in the cores offering better flow of coolant.
Your also correct with the differences between to 2 vehicles the 40 engine bay has heaps better airflow around the engine.

bru21 wrote:Engine driven fan is the go. They are like 4kw of fan - compared to very little thermo watts.
I ran one with the 350 chev in the bundera and it was fine. It was a brass fj45 unit from memory.
Never got hot once

cheers bru

Definately, my runs engine driven and the thermo just for assistance in lo range.

Cheers

Hey Dave, Mark built my radiator for my hilux ( copper/ brass ) and i have never had overheating problems.
I run two high output thermos with shroud.
Have heard too many stories about alloy radiators being stuffed after 2 years or less, and being throw away.
Just make sure you have a good shroud and fan set up.
Can you go for a 60 series radiator or 75 series, which seem larger?
Mark will no which way to go.

Matt

aussie desert coolers is where i got my new aluminium one for my patrol, always got hot, even with good engine fan and cleaned standard ally rad, went to the twin core aussie desert one, with the 26mm cores, so its as thick as a 4 core copper, and it doesnt even think about getting hot now.
its my understanding the aluminium ones will cool better, and weigh less, and yes there can be issues with them and stray current, but wont this kill a copper one nearly as quick?
just use good coolant, distilled water, and check for stray current and you will be fine.
if you get a complete aluminium unit, ie, no plastic end tanks, you shouldnt have a reliability issue with it...


cheers, andy

Cheers for the replies all. Will go for the biggest Cooper/Brass one I can fit in.

skootin wrote: a custom made fiberglass fan shroud setup correctly not just a fan in a shroud or a fan near a shroud.

Skootin, any chance of getting some pics of your fan and shroud setup? Cheers.